yup, mine are gone, no more rattles lol I actually replaced my entire rear decklid as opposed to just porting it, so that works too. Spray foam will work but you have to be careful applying it, I've actually seen people who used it and they rattled it loose as they just sprayed it in there with zero prep, the other thing is it doesn't flex much so it can be be brittle and crack etc. I didn't use any in my car, I just used a ton of sound deadener called Ballistic brand from Metra, that stuff has a glue to it that's amazing, I don't know what they did different compared to dynamat,hushmat etc, all I know is their stuff just works. It was a pain fitting it inside the rear doors and such but so far I'm really happy with it.

As far as components go I'm really happy with what I have, I use the Vibe SPace Series 3d 6.5 components in custom kickpanels on the floor, and I use their Space 8" in my doors for midbass. Between the quality of their speakers, and our custom tuned and built to spec kick panels etc I get an amazing front stage, if I had it do over again and wasn't their demo car I'd still be running their stuff, from my personal experience their equipment has been amazing so far. The Focal stuff is amazing as well, just a bit pricey for my taste.

 

God I'd love to hear that front stage....

...if you're ever in Florida, I'll buy you some drinks.

 

it doesn't have a gain. it has a "level" but i set that according to my outs on the head unit. and the bass boost is a no go. i've got a remote amp controller mounted up front and i can't keep that damn **** down. it's like boost I WANT MORE

 

**** dude, come to Austin, I'll buy yours instead lol

 

I'll have to look into Ballistic, I've been told by several people to go with Cascade (ofcourse no one knows how its actually spelled and I havent had much time to do research on it right now, but I'll def look into Ballistic).

I'm pretty sure when I switched my headunit it left on the Audiopilot which I absolutely hate and I dont know how to turn it off. I was just going to install a line level convertor to get my fatory Bose speakers back at their normal volume but If I cant fiure out how to get rid of audiopilot then the Bose is gone. Luckily I still have some older components to run. I have my High end Eclipse 8062 6.5 components (which I always hated Eclipse til I heard these, back in 2000 when I bought these they made MB Quar sound like Audiovox lol) that Ill run upfront but other than that I have 2 sets of older Q series MB Quart (one set is so old they are just Quart but they sound like magic too) 5" component sets which are too small for the rears. So I'll probably just leave the Bose back their for now. I'll be running Alpines Inline (series) add-on amp to boost outpt from the HU to 45 wrms which should be ok for now.

Thanx for both of your help and firebirdude. Firebirdude you wanted pics of the stuff I did inside before you commented. you know your way around stereo stuff pretty darn well from what I gather on here. I'm curious what you thought of the Sirius reciever install in the ash tray and the integrated remotes and gain control deguised as a remote that was in the tape panel on the stock HU. Let me know. You wont hurt my feelings.

I just want this thing up and going. When I did everything before it was over 2 years now I'm doing it all at once and it sucks. Plus the Metra kit and I'd suspect the Corksport kit as well is a pain in the a$$ to put in. If I had the base radio system I wouldve been MUCH better off at this point.

Only thing that I'll miss is the look on peoples faces when my bass would hit 151+db at spl comps off a stock HU. That was awesome.

 

haha I asked for pictures before you edited that post and added the picture.

It's not normally recommended to run two different sized subwoofers in the same system. Each subwoofer is different. A 30Hz tone through a 12" in a given box size will sound different than a 15" in a given box size. Hell, two 12"s in two different box sizes will sound different. You could run into issues with cancellation or maybe it'll just sound like crap. At any rate, it's widely a rule of thumb not to mix subwoofer sizes. So when you said you had two 12"s and a 15"s in the trunk of an RX8, half of me said no way you squeezed that in there and the other half remembered all the ghetto installs I've seen of people who hooked up everything they could get their hands on.

But your pics show a professional install. It looks great. I still don't believe the subs have enough air space.... and I'm still leery of how you're power two subs off one two-channel amp and the other off a separate monoblock amp....but you sound like a competent individual, so if it's working out, then all the more power to you. As for the Sirius receiver, I've seen others on here do that. I don't smoke, so if I had one of those add-on receivers I'd place it in the ash tray without a second thought. The bass boost **** in the stock headunit has been done on here before too. Yours looks great. But the ***** by the seat heater controls would **** me off. I rest my arm there while shifting. I'm already accidentally flipping the heater controls, I sure as hell wouldn't be able to live with those there.

All in all, the install looks clean as hell. Glad it's working out for you man.

 

alright. so i think i solved my amp mounting trunk space dilemma.

 

First the amps, both 12s are dual 4 ohm, ran in parallel so they are 2 ohm into a 2 channel 2 ohm amp ran in stereo. The 15" is a dual 4 ohm ran parallel too ran into a monoblock 2 ohm amp.

Second the subs, the 12s have perfect air space for a sealed enclosure, the 15, not so much, but the 15 is tuned to compliment the 12s. essentially it sounds like 3 12s. At first I designed everything out with just the 2 12s in mind but had a MB Quart 15" laying around and thought it would look good for when I show the car, So I knew there was no way I was going to get the boom of a 15" so I tuned it higher with the small box. I ended up liking the sound of it so much I upgraded the 15 to a RF T1 15 and redisned the part of the box you cant see, lol, to make it match the 12s. If it tells you how much they compliment each other in a SPL comp with the mic hanging from the rear veiw mirror with no port in the rear decklid (thats coming when the Bose amp goes bye bye) the 12s alone hit 135-137.5db all 3 subs goes up to 149-151.4db. The only open area to the trunk is the 1"x6" gap above the box when I remove the seat diveder.

As for the *****, I wouldve felt the same way 2 and a half years ago. I had a VERY bad motorcycle wreck (Igot hit by a tractor trailer) I had over 50 broken bones in my left arm to hand, lower left leg from knee to toes and my right wrist, but most importantly I lost the use of my left arm, so my right arm is rather busy when Im driving to say the least. I used to have the same problem with the heated seat switches and had always wished they had them on the center stack instead of the shifter panel, but The ***** look good there and I can get to them fairly easy for boost Hz adjustments for different types of music.

Ive also got a 10 farad hybrid cap on the back of the box and about to install an Audio Control EQX to further tune the subs. And I'm debating on installing the JL Audio 1000/1 v2 sub amp I got about a week ago but I dont think I can make it fit without making the trunk cluttered.

As you can tell I'm always in constant debate about things with the car and its not just audio either. Ive done alot of performance, interior and exterior upgrades as well. I was a Master Chrysler Tech before the wreck that had went to collage for electronic engineering and when that wasnt fun anymore I went back to school for automotive, even though I had built street rods and done restorations for 15 yrs prior to that (also used to be heavy into car audio). I wasnt familiar with computer controled cars so school sounded like a good idea, even though newer cars are SOOOOO much easier than 40-50-60 yr old cars. I loved working on cars ALOT more than engineering even though it was physical labor.

So, I'm curious, whats your system comprised of? With your tastes Im sure Ill be very impressed.

 

click the link in his signature, its a pretty nice system

 

Damn man.... sorry to hear about the accident. It's probably not even fair for me to send my condolences because I have never been through something like that. I can only imagine what you've had to go through. I wish you only the best though.

Well that explains the placement of the *****. lol Think you could squeeze two side by side in the face plate of the radio? As you know, that insert pops out so I'm sure you could pick another one up cheap from a scrap yard or something.

And again, you're install is clean as hell. It's just a rule of thumb that people always reference.

My system now is small. I used to have a huge system in my previous car, but I've kinda gotten tired of it. I had two 15" Adire Audio Tumults power off 3kWRMS. But got sick of everything that came along with it. Having the huge box take up, literally, my entire trunk. Having the heavy box and the three amps weigh down my car so bad I have to replace the springs and still bottoming out on bumps while driving. Having to install the high output alternator. And all just so I could boom crazy loud. Well I listen to mostly rock now, so it's not worth my time or money anymore. I wanted a single 10" and a small amp.... but once I got the 4080enclosure on one side of my trunk, it looked uneven.... so I got the other 10" and matching box. As for the subs/amp themselves, they're nothing special. I bought them brand new directly from Stillwater Designs (Kicker manufacturer) for pennies on the dollar. I do love my components though. They're going to follow me forever. Either until they die or I do. lol

 

Where did you find a high output alternator? what is the amp spec?

I have a Optima Yellow Top and a 10 farad cap, but I couldnt find a high output alternator. I've been looking for high output or chrome/billet, perferable both high output and polished.

I still need to upgrade my grounds and my battery to alternator wire to a larger gauge, but I have no dimming lights the cap takes care of 93.4% current fluxuation so I dont think of it much but it would really make a difference. Most people dont understand what goes into actually getting a cap that will smooth out the entire sub circuit of the audio system. Its a massive equation, and 1/2 farad and 1 farads and most times 2-3 farad caps are only for looks anymore.

Theres not enough room to squeeze two sets of ***** in the face plate. They would fit on the face plate but the face plate wouldnt go up inside the radio anymore due to the small opening thats only in the middle on the radio assembly itself.

And thank you for the best wishes, Its been a bitch goin through all this, but Im up on my feet and try to stay busy as I can tolerate. The worst part of it is even tho the left arm is paralyzed and doesnt move, I get to feel it. People always talk about nerve pain eing bad. Well they werent lying and I honestly dont think they had to feel what I have to either.

 

The H/O alt I had was for my previous vehicle. However I know Ohio Generators makes them http://www.ohiogen.com/ . Pretty sure they offer a chrome/polished one too. But last I looked into it, they were pricey. Expect to spend over $500 for polished.

Here's another one
http://www.mechman.com/

 

Thanx, $500 is a bit out of my range for an alternator, but ill def check them out.

 

Shoot em an email and see what they say. But I know they're not cheap for the 8 for some reason. Mechman did a group buy on here couple years back. They STARTED at around $375 for a non-polished with around 175 amps out.

 

i was told iraggi will make you an rx8 alt for around $400 not sure tho since he doesnt list it anywhere, might be worth an email to find out

 

this is the end result of my audio project. i'll probably replace the bose components eventually. but for right now, this is it








this is PRE vacuumming

 

Nice idea with the amp cover.... just needs to be executed a little better. I'd make the slices in the carpet UNDER the amp. Put small spacers under each screw hole on the amp to raise it off the ground 1/4", then run the wires directly under the amp. Barely any wires showing.

Other than that, just scrub off the plastic around the jack and vacuum.

 

That's clean. I thought I did pretty good for 6 bucks and a trip to walmart

 

hahaha I would say so!!

So most importantly, how does it sound? Are you happy?

 

it sounds ******* awesome. the rack doesn't rattle. the box is perfect for that sub. the head unit is blah. the signal is good but the servos keep deciding not to work, so now im in the market for another one. which really sucks. cuz that unit had the circle from the stock which i thought was pretty cool. i tried to fit a four in the center, couldn't do it without shaving into it. which i'm afraid to do. so i just unplugged it. i think i'm gonna put a couple tweeters in there. the best part is, other than the wiring, it all pulls out in like ten minutes. so race day rolls around and BAM 100+ lbs lighter. the reason i did the rack that way, is i wanted to be able to use my trunk, but i didn't want to heatsink the amp. after a fifteen minute drive, the amp heat is almost not noticable. after a hour and a half drive, it's not too hot to hold your hand too. mission accomplished. plus it looks prety sweet with all the led's lit up in the trunk

 

A lot of companies make a 3 1/2" speaker. JL, Kicker, Infinity, Boston...

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...-speakers.html

 

yeah but are they gonna be ok hooked to the bose amps?

 

Yup. The 9" woofers in the door is the only ones you have to worry about.

 

http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/m...DVD/detail.asp

i'm thinking of replacing my headunit with this.