AudioControl 6xs
#3
a few guys have it
I personally think it is way too expensive...I have a cheap LOC ($20) and everything sounds great (the internal LOC on the amp was complete crap)
I still might get the Dave Navone Differential LOC, it doesn't cost much more and there are great reviews by guys on the forum
I'm taping after the amp, no problems really even with Audiopilot on
I believe if I had a more powerful setup it may get messy but right now things sound great
I personally think it is way too expensive...I have a cheap LOC ($20) and everything sounds great (the internal LOC on the amp was complete crap)
I still might get the Dave Navone Differential LOC, it doesn't cost much more and there are great reviews by guys on the forum
I'm taping after the amp, no problems really even with Audiopilot on
I believe if I had a more powerful setup it may get messy but right now things sound great
#5
it was the one discussed in detail a while back...I believe you were part of those discussions when various members contacted Navone himself
but in the sticky it still says use the AL6 pre amp here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/speaker-sizes-harnesses-kits-etc-audio-install-reference-74664/ and refers to the threads
I have a cheapo LOC post amp
I still think no one knows what is best
I'll grab that Navone link for you
but in the sticky it still says use the AL6 pre amp here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/speaker-sizes-harnesses-kits-etc-audio-install-reference-74664/ and refers to the threads
I have a cheapo LOC post amp
I still think no one knows what is best
I'll grab that Navone link for you
#6
I have used the LC6 and the 6XS in numberous Mazda installs. I have indeed used the 6XS inthe Mazda RX8 as well as well as recommending to other users the same item. I know of one individual in Edmonton, AB that is also using the 6XS in his 8.
#7
here wiggles http://www.autosound2000.com/adaptor_products.htm
#11
Why I would use a 6xs over a basic LOC, by Rob.
(1) - it is a line driver
(2) - is is a crossover
(3) - is includes a subwoofer level controller
(4) - it will take any type of input signal, high or low level
(5) - it will allow you to expand the stock system further with no need for more LOC's
(6) - it has separate gain controls for front / rear / subwoofer
(7) - it has a 5 year warranty
(8) - it is not a cheapo bandaid but a dedictated problem solver
(9) - it is cool
(10) - it does the job properly that takes multiple other items to do at the same time.
(1) - it is a line driver
(2) - is is a crossover
(3) - is includes a subwoofer level controller
(4) - it will take any type of input signal, high or low level
(5) - it will allow you to expand the stock system further with no need for more LOC's
(6) - it has separate gain controls for front / rear / subwoofer
(7) - it has a 5 year warranty
(8) - it is not a cheapo bandaid but a dedictated problem solver
(9) - it is cool
(10) - it does the job properly that takes multiple other items to do at the same time.
#12
Forbidden,
For the most part I agree. David Navone's LOC's are passive and that can be good and bad. Frequency response and low frequency distortion are what scare me the most. If the core saturates and distorts the bass or lacks high frequency extension, then you have problems.
The only fully spec'd Line converters that I know of are the Balanced Buddy series of professional isolators from Rane which use nickel core transformers (http://www.rane.com/pdf/bb22dat.pdf). David Navone's could be just as good but they aren't fully specified. Phrases like "The NE-774V includes compensation for both frequency and phase with no loss of bass or treble." just don't do it for me. The Rane PDF is a fully specified data sheet.
But I have to say for $20 I am willing to give the Navone a shot (the Rane product is >$130).
However, active is the best route and can have flawless results. A good differential to RCA converter can go 5Hz - 40KHz with no amplitude or phase shift all the way up to 10 Vrms if you need it.
It is all a cost benefit thing - there are no perfect answers.
-Mr. Wigggles
For the most part I agree. David Navone's LOC's are passive and that can be good and bad. Frequency response and low frequency distortion are what scare me the most. If the core saturates and distorts the bass or lacks high frequency extension, then you have problems.
The only fully spec'd Line converters that I know of are the Balanced Buddy series of professional isolators from Rane which use nickel core transformers (http://www.rane.com/pdf/bb22dat.pdf). David Navone's could be just as good but they aren't fully specified. Phrases like "The NE-774V includes compensation for both frequency and phase with no loss of bass or treble." just don't do it for me. The Rane PDF is a fully specified data sheet.
But I have to say for $20 I am willing to give the Navone a shot (the Rane product is >$130).
However, active is the best route and can have flawless results. A good differential to RCA converter can go 5Hz - 40KHz with no amplitude or phase shift all the way up to 10 Vrms if you need it.
It is all a cost benefit thing - there are no perfect answers.
-Mr. Wigggles
#13
Thread Resurrection!! (Thought I would put this here instead of starting a new thread.)
I installed my Audiocontrol 6XS this week. Since I am only adding subs for now, I only tapped into the front input to the Bose amp.
For the money, I am a little disapointed in the gain that it gave me, but once I get my JL stuff, I hope it will be plenty. The sub crossover is perfect for the small box that I took out of my Wrangler. I am still working on a little system noise, but shouldn't be a problem.
Now for the good stuff. I had origainally just paralleled the front input to the Bose amp for the 6XS. Then for the hell of it, I ran the input to the Bose amp through the Front Highpass Out of the 6XS, bumped the gain up 1/2 way and WOW! The front half of the system came alive. Now don't get me wrong, I know that it won't stand up to any decent aftermarket stuff, but for now it is a hell of a lot better than it originally was. I will be doing the rear soon.
DISCLAIMER: For anyone thinking about doing this......I haven't had any or do I forsee any problems since I only boosed it a couple of volts, but this could shorten (or end) the life of the Bose amp. I did this knowing that I have a Fosgate 4 channel amp to install if something happens, but I am trying to keep my install simple until I get the new equipment that I want.
I installed my Audiocontrol 6XS this week. Since I am only adding subs for now, I only tapped into the front input to the Bose amp.
For the money, I am a little disapointed in the gain that it gave me, but once I get my JL stuff, I hope it will be plenty. The sub crossover is perfect for the small box that I took out of my Wrangler. I am still working on a little system noise, but shouldn't be a problem.
Now for the good stuff. I had origainally just paralleled the front input to the Bose amp for the 6XS. Then for the hell of it, I ran the input to the Bose amp through the Front Highpass Out of the 6XS, bumped the gain up 1/2 way and WOW! The front half of the system came alive. Now don't get me wrong, I know that it won't stand up to any decent aftermarket stuff, but for now it is a hell of a lot better than it originally was. I will be doing the rear soon.
DISCLAIMER: For anyone thinking about doing this......I haven't had any or do I forsee any problems since I only boosed it a couple of volts, but this could shorten (or end) the life of the Bose amp. I did this knowing that I have a Fosgate 4 channel amp to install if something happens, but I am trying to keep my install simple until I get the new equipment that I want.
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