So I used Lurch's DIY for Auto Up/Down windows, but a added a little twist for those of us who don't have aftermarket alarms.

Follow Lurch's DIY here

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-auto-up-down-windows-86459/#post1563661

Then to make it work with just factory i used the PAC-audio TR-7. This device is a programmable trigger module. I set it up to take a double pulse input and output a steady signal for 5 secs. It has seperate wires for + and - inputs and outputs so it doesn't matter what type of signal you feed it or what it will output. So i used the Factory door lock pulse signal that goes to the door lock actuator. This is a Red/Blue wire in the connector on the lower left of the drivers door. I hooked this to the green (+ input) of the TR-7. I also hooked the TR-7 white (- output) to the orange (- when armed) of the 530t. The only other thing i did different was to use the orange wire on the Bose Amp for power since this is always on. It works like a charm. When you double tap the lock on the doors within 5 secs the windows go up.

I plan on getting another TR-7 and hooking this to the unlock signal (red wire one down from unlock). This one will be set up for triple signal and 5 sec out. So if i triple unlock the doors the windows go down.

 

That's awesome robbz, but can you post the programming instructions you used? I took a look and couldn't figure it out.

 

Sure it wasn't too hard to do but yes it did confuse me on my first few attempts. I used the power supply to my cable modem to do the programming in the house instead of car, if you do this make sure you check the polarity first. You need to hook up the power and ground first before doing anything. Then you use the brown wire to "pulse" a negative input.

1. Switch programming switch to on and hook up power and ground.
2. Pulse Brown wire to - 15 times to indicate option 15. Unit will slow flash 15x.
3. Pulse Brown wire 2x to indicate 2 pulse input. Unit will flash 2x.
3. Pulse Brown one time after flash to continue to inputting time.
4. Unit will flash once very quickly. Ignore this one as it is for the minute place on the timer.
5. Unit will flash 2x quickly again you ignore this one as it is for the 10 sec place.
6. Unit will flash 3x quickly for single secs. Now u will pulse the brown 5 times for 5 secs.
7. Unit will flash a bunch more times indicating programming is complete. Disconnect power and turn programming switch off.

You are now ready to test. If you hook up the power leads and pulse the brown to - you will see the light on the box come on for 5 secs and you should see a - and + signal on the outputs during that time.

I just ordered another TR-7 to do the roll down on 3x unlock, and a 530t for the sunroof. I will update this thread when i do those installs.

 

Awesome, thanks!

 

Well after pretty big struggle i got the rest of the install done for rolling down the windows and adding sunroof functionality in too. What I learned is that a 530/529 won't work for the sunroof in normal configuration. This because the switches on the sunroof don't control the motor instead they run a relay inside the motor. Because there is no draw on these lines the 530 shuts off right away when activated. So it opens fine because of the factory one touch, but when closing it only moves about an inch then stops.

If you are planning to do this w/o an aftermarket alarm all you need is 2 TR-7's for open and close (only one if you just want one direction) and one 530t for the windows. Wire the Tr-7s like i detailed at the top.

1. The green input on the first TR-7 goes to the top red wire (I forget the secondary color) for Lock.
2. The green input on the unlock TR-7 to the second red wire.
3. Of course you need to wire power and ground to each TR-7. I just tapped the harness for the 530t after the fuse.
4. The white (- output) on the Lock TR-7 goes to orange (armed when ground) on the 530t.
5. The white (- output) on the UnLock TR-7 goes to red/white (AUX) on the 530t.
6. The blue (+ output) for both will be extended thru the door and up into the sunroof switch. Its a big pain to get extra wires thru the door connector, I think i saw directions here somewhere that might help. To create enough room to run the wires in the headliner I removed the sun visor and clip (put a flat head into the slots on either side of the clip). The sunroof switches come down but removing the two screws in the sunglasses compartment and gently pulling down. There are some clips up there to hold it in so it might take a bit of force. It will probably be easier if you remove the entire module from the car because we have a bunch of wiring to do.
7. You need to clip the Black and blue wires between the PCB and connector. On the switch side (PCB) connect these two wires together. These two are the ACC power that provide power to the switches. On the motor side tape off the blue one. The motor side of the black we will be adding constant +.
8. Tap the Yellow (+ when closing) with the wire you extended from lock TR-7. This will give the motor a + signal when the TR-7 is activated.
9. Tap the Green (+ when opening) with the wire you extended from unlock TR-7.
10. Look in the hole in the headliner, you will see the sunroof motor right there. Undo the connector. You will see one green line coming in by itself. This is a constant + (check with multimeter). You need to tap this and extend it down to connect with the motor side of the black wire. I am not sure why, but the sunroof needs the constant +, the ACC +, and the signal for Open/Close/Tilt.

That should be it. The TR-7 once activated will give the - signal to the 530t to open/close the windows, and the + signal to the switches for the sunroof. By modifiying the ACC power on the motor side you allow it to still work when the car is off. However, by doing it this way your switches don't get power when the car is off so the sunroof won't open when the car is off. This goes the same for the windows, which is better for security.

 

I just wanted to say that after 18 months of this installed everything is still working normally and great for me. It was so great last summer to be able to roll all the windows and sunroof down and up outside of the car. I especially hated running errands in nice weather and being forced to close the sunroof and windows before I turned the car off.

 

I'm surprised this thread recieved so few responses. This sounds very cool! I think I will give this a try.

 

Definitely on the list of things to do. Should go great w/ Rotary Rasp's new one touch sunroof mod.

 

I might check that out, but since i usually only ever close the sunroof with my keys then I don't really see the need.

If anyone does want to do this, I have an extra 530t box that I would like to sell on the cheap.

 

Let me get this straight, you activate the windows open and close with the buttons on your key fob?

 

Yes, I hit the unlock on my factory key fob 3x and it rolls the windows down and opens the sunroof. If I hit the lock 2x it rolls the windows up and closes the sunroof.

 

Great write up. Missed this the first time around because of a deployment. Sounds like a nifty feature to have in case you forget to roll the windows up, much better than having to turn the car on again.

 

would you say this is an easy install? i might take you up on that extra equipment.

 

easy is all relative. I think if you have a fair amount of experience with audio in your car then it should be straight forward but time consuming. If you are a novice with that kind of stuff, it might take you a while longer. The hardest part for me was getting the extra wires through the door for the sunroof part. If you skip that part I think it took me about 2 hours.

 

i see. well, i don't have much experience with audio and i might have a difficult time locating all the wires that's needed. plus, looking at the lurch's DIY, it sort of gave me a little headache haha. that and i'd need another set of 530t

 

oh man, i really wanna try this..i've seen the auto-up and down on my buddies ride and i think it's a cool mod.

 

I want that too but I have no idea how to program this thing

 

Do you guys think if I took the DYI and the module to a custom car shop here in town they would do it? Also do you think they would charge me an arm and a leg?

 

i stand corrected. congrats on your search.

 

Yes I can say that I love this mod on my car far above anything else. It was so great for the last few summers to be able to roll down the windows from afar without having to add on a security system. You know I just reread my posts and I confused myself. If anyone wants to do this and is struggling or needs more help I could write up a proper DIY.

 

That would be awesome. Rolling the windows auto down doesn't mean much to me, but auto up/sunroof close when I lock the doors would be sweet as hell.

Also note, what if the sunroof is already closed? These modules aren't going to put voltage to the relay to power the motor anyway are they? I mean, I don't ALWAYS have the sunroof open....Pretty much same question with the windows.

 

This sounds like a very cool mod.

But just to be the safety elephant here, and just so everyone's making an informed decision, keep in mind that the RX-8 has no autoreverse sensoring on the windows or sunroof. That's the reason there's no auto-close funtion on them from Mazda, as NHTSA requires that these be able to reverse direction if they detect an obstruction. I know it sounds like everyone should know better, but children and animals often don't, so just keep that in mind if you power cycle these on even if you don't have kids/dogs of your own in the vehicle. If someone's near the car and sticks their hand into the closing window path, it's not going to stop.

 

Actually for the windows this is not true. By using the windown module from DEI you are adding a level of protection. Properly installed you set the DIP switches to the lowest level of effort by the motor needed to close the window. When the motor has closed the window all the way or reaches an obstruction, the module will detect this by the draw spiking and cut power to the motor. So it should stop when the window is closed on something. In fact for some reason in the winter mine never wants to go all the way up because it detects a high enough draw to cut the power.

For the windows the above answers the question. For the Sunroof it would be the same as sitting in the car and holding down the sunroof switch. The sunroof motor is internally protected against overload. The switches for it aren't running full power to the sunroof, but a relayed power to signal to the sunroof which direction to move. Lurch and I differed on this aspect he went with the safer approach which was to do a lot of wiring inside the sunroof motor assembly in order to add a 530t to control it, and stop it if the load got too high. I went with the idea that the sunroof motor protects itself and just sent the signal for 5 secs to close or open.

 

In FL you don't want to be able to roll down you windows as you approach the car from afar? I especially loved it in the summer when i was outside talking to people I would roll down the windows after work and talk for a few minutes as the car aired out. Plus the added benefit of pulling up to somewhere with the windows/sunroof down and not having to sit there while you closed them before turning off the car. It doesnt make as much since to me now because I live in Sweden now and it really doesn't get hot enough to bake the car in the summer.

 

Its just that I don't always want the windows down when I get in the car. But I always want them up when I'm locking the car up. lol