Its been a while since I posted in here, I have had problem after problem with the stereo in my 8, first with the factory HU, and then the amp for the subs. Well, I finally pulled the trigger tonight, and got a KAC 7204 amp, thats 1000 watts to the 2 10" Ascendant Audio subs, should work wonderfully. Also picked up a basic set of Blaupunkt 6x9s as well. All will be installed when they arrive. In the meantime, does anyone have any suggestions about amp mounting? I had it screwed to the back of the box, but I dont like that look because the wires are all out in the open and looking terrible. I looked into the false floor, but it seems alot more invasive than im used to. Any different ideas would be awesome

 

Sorry to burst your bubble, but that amp is NOT 1000 watts...

here is the crutchfield link with the stats http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC7...04.html?tp=115

the most important are -

# 170 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (250 watts x 2 at 2 ohms)
# 500 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4 ohm stable in bridged mode)

meaning, you can send 170 watts RMS to each of the subs at 4 ohms - or 250 RMS if you go 2 ohms - OR if you bridge the channels you can get 1 500 watt RMS channel at 4 ohms, and it is not 2 ohm bridge stable

so basically, you have a 500 watt max RMS amp. yes it does have a "peak" at 1000 watts, but you shouldn't look at the peak, never look at the peak because that isn't where the amp operates at (or anywhere near) and it's more for marketing than anything useful.

** If you don't know the difference between RMS and peak: RMS is the level that the amp normally operates at. So in your case, if you turn the amp all the way up, it would operate at around 500 watts all the time (if you have a bridged connection). The "peak" is the highest possible level it could put out without blowing itself up. It almost never operates at it's peak, and personally I think the peak is a BS number they can put on the box to call a 500 watt amp a 1000 watt amp.. so in short - NEVER look at the peak numbers.. I hope this helps...

and if you have any other audio questions.. ask around here.. or go to your local audio shop and just talk to them for a while, they can explain everything and make sure you understand and are going to get the most out of your money..

 

2, 10 inch, 2 ohm subs wired in series to that amp would create a 4 ohm load suitable for bridged operation, meaning he can get 250 watts RMS to each speaker.

500 watts distributed across 2 10"inch woofers should move more then enough air to be stupidly loud.

Even 170 watts per channel is more then enough to damage your hearing if your levels and crossovers are set right.

I'd be shocked if most people ever even reached RMS levels during normal listening, let alone peak

 

Wikked, while I appreciate the input, I do know the difference between RMS and peak, and I merely posted the Peak as a reference because actual RMS is never as posted by the manufacturer. and any newer audio guys always go by peak. I plan on bridging it to the 500 peak, using about 200-250 rms. That is what I did in my old car, with a very similar setup, and it worked beautifully. I wanted this amp, because my needs will never come close to its limits, but I found that anything less than this does not work well with my subs.

 

Cool, I think that will be PLENTY

Oh i forgot to answer your original question - here is what i did with my amps - they are the Alpine PDX series - one is the PDX 1.1000 for the subs and the other is 4.150 for the interior speakers. they have the footprint of a peice of paper and produce almost NO heat, the airspace they have is way more than enough..



here is a link to the thread I posted about my setup
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/corksport-avic-z2-experience-review-rest-my-alpine-system-121032/

I hope this gives you some good ideas...

 

Have the subs face the rear of the car. Keep the amp mounted on the back. Goodbye wiring mess.

 

firebird dude, yeah i was thinking about it... but the box i am using fits EXACTLY into that back part, mint. was trying to avoid it but I have also been told that the sound clarity will be better if facing backwards rather then to the front. So I was thinking thats my only option. I liked the false floor idea, but don't want to spend the money making it.

 

And forget about ratings in peak. New guy or not, peak is not the proper way to look at power ratings as they vary wildly from manufacturer to manufacturer vs. the rms rating that cannot.