Zielritter

I've been searching threads looking for some type of dyi for an installation of an EL8A (bazooka tube /w built in amp) via tapping into the rear speakers only and not taking apart the center console. Can someone give me or point me in the direction of a step by step process on how I could go about this. I'm not the most electronically savvy person around, but what i've gleaned from others so far is that you can splice the rear speaker wires into the tube and as long as you don't fade the sound to the front you can leave it like this and have nice bass. I just have concerns about the remote line and where to get that signal from besides the front HU. Besides the battery and ground, I think that covers it as far as my questions about wires. Please post some type of installation procedure if you could or point me some place useful (i.e. not convoluted with stuff I wouldn't understand). Thanks bunches in advance.

WikkedOne

Yeah the best remote is to tap into that line running to the cig lighter hidden in the center console in the back (you can even do it without taking it apart)

here are the colors for the factory speakers (no bose)
Door/system wire colors:

* base radio:
o Door left: +R -W (tweeter same)
o Door right +W/B -Y/R (tweeter same)
o Rear left +V -P
o Rear right +W/L -B/L

the best way to get the signal is to tap them and use a line leveler similar tothis one which will convert the speaker input to RCAs so you can plug them into the sub.

You can do this by using a wire tap connector you can get at Radio Shack (i don't know the official name) but its a little blue connector that half cuts the original wire making a connection and then just snaps closed and stays that way so you don't have to worry about cutting and reconecting your wires. (go to radio shack and tell them what you want to do they will help you out)

you run those wires into the line leveler you have and then use the rcas into your amp

as for power... (i'm an probably BEGGING for flames with this) but I would say that tube is so low power (it's a 100 watt amp w/ 1 15 amp fuse) that you can run it off of the same wire for your remote and ground it somewhere in the trunk. although a proper power/ground wire is recommended

If you have any questions or can't understand my rambling feel free to PM me

Zielritter

I have the bose system so how would I properly tap into those rear speaker wires? Sorry to not have mentioned that in my first post.

WikkedOne

well then you should do it right out of the headunit then because the amp does some weird things with the levels
tap into these colors
# Bose radio:

* Door tweet left +R -W (door speaker connected direct to amp)
* Door tweet right +W/R -Y/R (door speaker connected direct to amp)
* Centre mid +L/B -G/Y
* Rear left +V -P (tweeters are co-axial, same colors)
* Rear right +W/L -B/L (tweeters are co-axial, same colors)

tap the same way i said but you have to take the dash apart.. (it has to be done) and run the wires straight up the middle it's not really that hard.. although i don't know if that still needs to go into a line leveler or exactly how the bose works... maybe someone who has a bose can help ya out... but good luck man! keep us posted and let us know how it turns out

Zielritter

Stupid questions:

R=right?
L=left?
W=white?
Y=yellow?
B=blue?
G=green?
V=?
P=?
How do I tap into the cigarette lighter w/o taking it apart for the remote line?

Told ya I was slightly electronically challenged! Otherwise thanks for the helpful information WikkedOne.

WikkedOne

After thinking about it I think those colors are for the connection at the speakers. if you're going to be taping at the head unit you can find the pin out colors at http://www.gweep.net/~sfoskett/miata/audiopins/#01

you tap the cigatette lighter line the same way i told you.. with a little taping connector (i am getting some today and will take pics for you)

do some more searching around for people who have put a sub on a bose system.. they will have tons more information than i can guess at LoL

Tamas

iTrader: (1)

V=violet
P=purple

TheBri

You'll need a line level converter of some sort to stick between the rear speaker leads and your bazooka tube. The sticky thread at the top of this forum has a ton of extremely useful information on this subject. I read through it all before I started my installation and it saved me a ton of headaches and money. I personally got an Audio Control LC6 but there are other options that are talked about in that thread that will a.) do what you need and b.) cost less.

I wouldn't use vampire taps - the kind that half cut the original wire and allow you to add an another wire. They are dodgy at best. It's not had to just cut the wires and splice in your new leads with solderless connectors or actually using a soldering iron.

You could easily tap the rear accessory plug for a remote turn on without taking the center console apart. If my memory serves me it's a green and a black wire that go into the back of that plug - the green wire is the hot one the black is ground. I'm not sure how you'd run your wire back to the trunk (and hide it) if you didn't take it apart. Taking the center console apart is actually really easy to do - I've done it probably 5 times now between my stereo install and installing the Mazdaspeed carbon fiber center console pieces. There are several places in this website that have the screw diagram for the center console. All you do is remove a few screws and pop it up. If you take your time and don't try to rip it out you'll be fine.

You will want to run a proper power wire from the battery back to your trunk. The Bazooka manual says that you need to use a 12 gauge wire (or larger) for their biggest powered tubes. I'd suggest running 8 gauge just to be safe. You will have no problems running 8 gauge wire back to your trunk. I would suggest going through the factory wire harness boot that is on the driver's side. I ran 1/0 power wire through it with very little trouble. Ground it with the same gauge wire.

I'm not a professional installer but I just finished doing a big install; so all this stuff is fresh in my head. There are a few people on this forum that are pro installers and are willing to answer questions. I asked Forbidden a few questions and he answered them quickly - very good guy. I'd also be more than happy to answer any questions.

Remember it's always better to ask what you might *think* is a stupid question instead of just doing something and breaking it... or electrocuting yourself... or something else bad.

jstkilntim

If using the Mazda Service Manual....
R=Red
L=Blue
W=White
Y=Yellow
G=Green
O=Orange
GY=Grey
BR=Brown
LG-Light Green

Bose System is.....
Left Front(+)=R/L
Left Front(-)=LG/R
Right Front(+)=L/W
Right Front(-)=Y/G
Left Rear(-)=L/O
Left Rear(+)=G/O
Right Rear(-)=BR/R
Right Rear(+)=GY/R

Zielritter

Thanks guys for all the info. I had read through that sticky before but I guess I just didn't know what I was looking for until it was clarified here. So to summarize, I should be able to tap into the appropriate rear speaker wires in the harness before the bose amp, which is the amp mounted in the roof of the trunk, and use those as inputs into my tube. I'll need some type of device to splice into the wires and one of those line converters so I can hook up my rca cables up to the wires I spliced into the wires in that harness. I can get the remote line from the cigarette lighter by tapping into the non ground wire (what type of wire should I use for the remote?). Running the positive battery line should be the trickiest point, but I think I can pull it off. Lastly, what point should I use as the ground? Thanks again.

jstkilntim

All you should need is about a #14 or so for the remote (should say in your owners manual). The aux. socket lifts out very easily without any disassembly, but to run the wire to the trunk, I loosened the 5 rear screws holding in the console and carefully lifted it up enough to run the wire under the carpet following the wire harness that runs just in front of the rear passenger seat. This was easier to me than running it down the length of the console. (There are also a lot of sharp brackets etc under the console.) To tap it, I peeled back about 3 inches of the black shielding, cut the green wire in the middle and used a heat shrink style butt connector to hook it back together w/ 2 wires on one end and one on the other. (Doesn't matter which is which)

I checked all main bolts etc. in the trunk and under the rear seats. All were great spots in my car so should be OK in yours. However, there is a possibility of your car being different, so if you have a multimeter, disconnect the battery & check the ground point you want to use back to the negative battery lead at the battery. It should be a very low resistance reading. (Before you do this, check your meter leads together, record this reading and subtract it from your final reading.)

Zielritter

Finally got around to purchasing the tube and the installation became so tedious that I ended up biting the bullet and paying 70$ for the installation at Cicuit City. I opted for the 50w EA model and it sounds excellent, especially for its compact size. Thanks for your help.

jstkilntim

Glad you like. Post a pic for everyone.

Zielritter

Here are some pics of the installation performed by Circuit City.....

presequel

which one did you get? 200 watts?

how do you like the sound now? do you have bose or no?

im lookin for a quick and easy solution, so i've been considering this.

Zielritter

Like I said at the beginning of the thread I have the Bose system, and I purchased the 50w Bazooka EA model. Yes, it sounds excellent. In fact, it greatly exceeded my expectations for such a small integrated amplifier. In my previous car, which was a hatchback, I had a single 12" 400w RMS Kenwood sub running on a RF 125w amp and this doesn't hit quite as hard but bass is comparable (if that makes any sense). If you are looking for a nice addition to the stock setup that's easy on the wallet and ears, go for this. The 200w Bazooka would be superfluous in my opinion, unless you are the type who wants headsplitting, mindnumbing bass that is hard to turn down when you just want to listen at a reasonable volume.

Moostafa29

Install doesn't look too bad, but after hearing one several years back, I wasn't a big fan of the way it hits. I'm sure they've improved the design by now, so hopefully it sounds good now.

Low Fly'n 8

The installation instructions for Bazooka tubes say this: "The woofer (grill end) should be facing a corner. Ideally, there should be 2" - 4" from the woofer to the corner it is pointing into". I don't know how much this affects the sound, but it appears that Circuit City didn't follow this on your install. For $70 they could have made the wiring a little cleaner IMO.

416to212

Sorry for resurecting an old thread.....

So those with the Bazooka tubes.... How easy is it to remove it?

Tamas

iTrader: (1)

Very.

You unplug the wires (1 plug) and release two straps.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

I work for Circuit City.... and I agree.

lurch519

i work for an independent retailer of car audio and electronics, and we charge less for a much better install. plus, by myself i probably have more experience than the entire staff of any best buy or circuit city install shop