big subs vs little subs
#28
Originally Posted by fenderlover
what w7's
Please don't attempt to put 12" subs in this car your wasting your time if you do. And your money. Go with 2 W3 10" if u want some sort of trunk space left. And if you are one of those people who just dont care about trunk space go with 2 10" W6's. If you go W3's i reccomend a JL 500/1. W6's can take the 500/1 but if you wanna see what W6's are really made of go with a 1000/1.
If your trying to keep your spare in the trunk. You need to do like i said. Go to JL Audio's home page. Look at box specs then go to your trunk and look if it is goin to be even remotly workable. Some times you have to forfiet stuff for performance.
And yes it will sound different, but ported boxes hit twice as hard if built right than sealed boxes. Im not goin to argue on this subject because this is what I do for a living. Im just giving helpful tips and tryin to save peopel money while doin it.
#29
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Why in the world would you say he's wasting his time if he puts 12's in his car? That's kind of a very biased opinion that you have stated as if it were a fact.
#30
Originally Posted by rkostolni
Why in the world would you say he's wasting his time if he puts 12's in his car? That's kind of a very biased opinion that you have stated as if it were a fact.
Rkostonli could u please take a picture of your trunk setup to give fender an idea of what he is working with for trunk space. Assuming your setup is properly done.
Thanks.
#31
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Opinions can be highly biased. I have the luxury of making my opinions known with the basis of 18 years of installation and sales experience behind me. 14 years ago I came to the realization that the manufacturers and their reps were doin the Jedo Mind Trick to me at their sales presentations. (IE: free giveaways, extra commissions, points programs, beer and pizza etc.) Once I learned how to tune out what these reps were saying and really looking at the products available, it became much easier to match a product to a customers needs. A true specialty retailer will draw upon their background and recommend items that they know are highly predictable for given circumstances. With todays stores, the big box retailer is primariliy full of under 23 yr old sales clerks that are still wet behind the ears. Find a specialty shop and ask that person your questions for they are the one that has the real answers.
My questions if you came into my store would be as follows.
(1) good sound or annoy the neighbourhood.
(2) are you sound deadening.
(3) what amp is going to be used.
(4) how are the sub(s) going to be controlled.
(5) do you have a budget.
(6) what about weight and real estate taken up in the trunk.
(7) so you want a big sub system, will the balance of the system be able to keep up.
(8) what further expansions do you plan.
(9) are you open to fibreglassing.
(10) what kind of music do you play.
(11) of course what kind of vehicle is it in.
and many more......all of which allow the educated salesperson to find the right product for the application. If you have not had these questions asked to you, time to go to a different store. With the online forums these days it is also incredibly hard to know who you are actually dealing with. Are you dealing with someone who has the blinders on and feels that a one brand is the only brand approach as it is all they have ever owned (and are probably 20 years old), or are they someone who is reading all the forums and has derived their information from reading, yet they do not own the said equipment. On this forum in particular there are very few of us that are actively involved in this industry. Mr. Wigggles has some great information yet I do not know his backgroud. Lurch519 has pertinent information and is involved in this industry. Do more investigation on your needs before you choose a weapon to do the job with.
My questions if you came into my store would be as follows.
(1) good sound or annoy the neighbourhood.
(2) are you sound deadening.
(3) what amp is going to be used.
(4) how are the sub(s) going to be controlled.
(5) do you have a budget.
(6) what about weight and real estate taken up in the trunk.
(7) so you want a big sub system, will the balance of the system be able to keep up.
(8) what further expansions do you plan.
(9) are you open to fibreglassing.
(10) what kind of music do you play.
(11) of course what kind of vehicle is it in.
and many more......all of which allow the educated salesperson to find the right product for the application. If you have not had these questions asked to you, time to go to a different store. With the online forums these days it is also incredibly hard to know who you are actually dealing with. Are you dealing with someone who has the blinders on and feels that a one brand is the only brand approach as it is all they have ever owned (and are probably 20 years old), or are they someone who is reading all the forums and has derived their information from reading, yet they do not own the said equipment. On this forum in particular there are very few of us that are actively involved in this industry. Mr. Wigggles has some great information yet I do not know his backgroud. Lurch519 has pertinent information and is involved in this industry. Do more investigation on your needs before you choose a weapon to do the job with.
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#34
what would a perfect balance between sound and anoying neighbors.
also i was thinging about 1 set of zr650's for the front two seats 1 set for the back 2 seats and maybe a sub or 2 smaller of course maybe 8w7's
also i was thinging about 1 set of zr650's for the front two seats 1 set for the back 2 seats and maybe a sub or 2 smaller of course maybe 8w7's
#35
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A single 12" or 10" sub in the proper box is all that is necessary here. I use a highly predictable sub in this case, the Eclipse aluminum cones sub. I use this as it does not require a large ported box, I use it as it delivers stunning low end response with authority, I use it as it is not a one note wonder type of sub, I use it as the build quality is above average, I use it because it has never once in over 7 years let me or a customer down. www.eclipse-web.com look at the SW7524 series of sub.
I would also consider a single amp system like the Audison LRX5.600. I have used this sub in this exact car for two customers that are on this site and the results have been by far above average. I'll see if I can track them down and see if they will post their results on this thread.
I would also consider a single amp system like the Audison LRX5.600. I have used this sub in this exact car for two customers that are on this site and the results have been by far above average. I'll see if I can track them down and see if they will post their results on this thread.
#36
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I have the Bose system in my 2004. According to Bose a sub is not recommended cause the stereo is tuned specifically to each car individually. That is leather seats, sunroof, etc all go into the way the stero is tuned. The audio pilot feature that few know about , changes the way the stereo sounds under different conditions (ie.. if the sunroof is open, the noise of the road, your gf's loud mouth, etc. Bose says that adding a sub will cause the audio pilot to compensate for the bass noise by decreasing the bass of the system causing it to sound brassy. This is what you have so few tuning options with a Bose system.
That being said. I added two 10's in a closed box with a single Rockford 3002 amp, along with a bass **** and turned the audio pilot off. Couldnt help myself..... For me it just adds enough beat for my kind of beats... House Music / Dance...
That being said. I added two 10's in a closed box with a single Rockford 3002 amp, along with a bass **** and turned the audio pilot off. Couldnt help myself..... For me it just adds enough beat for my kind of beats... House Music / Dance...
#37
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Originally Posted by forbidden
Mr. Wigggles has some great information yet I do not know his backgroud.
#38
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Does he have an aftermarket deck?.. If so, it would be nice to see how it is mounted in that pain-in-the-a## dash. I wish there was an easy way to install an aftermarket deck.......
#40
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Yeah I researched an I-pod config. Nothing for an RX8. PIE, PAC, DENSION, MONSTER.... nothing for a direct connection. I have tried a few friends FM modulator equipped I-pods and they both have sounded flat. Would anyone know if the modulator brand can make a difference? What has anyone heard that has decent quality ?
#41
www.evoperform.com
unfortunately, fm signals have a limited bandwidth available. thats one of the reasons why a song on a cd is going to sound better than the same song on the radio.
#42
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
I was in the industry for nearly 10 years myself. I got to hear Wigggles car tonight. He really needs to take pictures of his setup. He has JL Audio 8W0's in each door in their own sealed enclosure behind the stock door panel. Mounted above them he has a Focal 4" and a Focal tweeter. He has a Focal 4" in the center channel spot in the stock center location and a Focal tweeter that fires up through the center through the defroster vent. It sounds very nice. Nothing quite like up front bass. He really needs to post the pictures. The 4" isn't where you think it is. The car looks stock inside but definitely doesn't sound stock.
You've got me... I am really wondering how the hell he mounted the 8" and 4" in the door, yet it looks stock (this means no cutting of the door panel or fabbing visible parts). Was there really enouch clearance for the JL 8" in the doors? And the Focal 4"?!
So this setup sound better than the standard 6.5" components in the doors, 6x9"/6.5" components in the rear and a 8" or 10" sub (sealed)?
#46
Reviving topic, is it possibly to fit a 12W6V2 or even a 12W7 in our trunk?
I mean I really do not see any setup that makes sense, all of them either have the Sub pointed up towards the trunk or at each side but any in that space behind the seats?
Is this doable or should I just stick with 2 10w6s
I mean I really do not see any setup that makes sense, all of them either have the Sub pointed up towards the trunk or at each side but any in that space behind the seats?
Is this doable or should I just stick with 2 10w6s
#47
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Reviving topic, is it possibly to fit a 12W6V2 or even a 12W7 in our trunk?
I mean I really do not see any setup that makes sense, all of them either have the Sub pointed up towards the trunk or at each side but any in that space behind the seats?
Is this doable or should I just stick with 2 10w6s
I mean I really do not see any setup that makes sense, all of them either have the Sub pointed up towards the trunk or at each side but any in that space behind the seats?
Is this doable or should I just stick with 2 10w6s
#48
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Find a good shop and let an EXPERT help you.
I too have some thoughts on this topic. Most have been said before, just my 2 cents. I am not in the audio install business either, so I have had to figure this stuff out through trial and error.
I have a 12W6 in my P5 in a well built custom ported box and I can tell you that in that config it would take up a huge portion on the trunk. In a sealed box you should be fine (would sound better too). Remember if you are going to be running any high end subs you are going to have to do some serious sound deadening in the trunk. If you don't it will sound like S#IT.
Since it seems like you are asking for advice, here it is..... Don't mess with W6 or W7's unless you have a lot of $$$ to put into the project. With good stereo installs, it is the details that make all the difference (sound deadening, enclosure design, quality parts, etc).
Shop around in your area and find a good shop ie.. One where the salesman asks the questions listed by forbidden. Listen to the salesman, cuz if you find the right shop then that guy is going to know what he is talking about.
Back to the size question. One 12 will be more than enough, if all the other stuff (amp, head unit, box, etc) is done right. Just understand that the sub itself will only be 1/3 to 1/4 of the total price. Expect to spent more money on AMP and stuff that you spent on the sub.
The bottom line is......what sub you buy is only a small part of the equation. It is an important part, but there is a whole lot more too it. Good luck.
I have a 12W6 in my P5 in a well built custom ported box and I can tell you that in that config it would take up a huge portion on the trunk. In a sealed box you should be fine (would sound better too). Remember if you are going to be running any high end subs you are going to have to do some serious sound deadening in the trunk. If you don't it will sound like S#IT.
Since it seems like you are asking for advice, here it is..... Don't mess with W6 or W7's unless you have a lot of $$$ to put into the project. With good stereo installs, it is the details that make all the difference (sound deadening, enclosure design, quality parts, etc).
Shop around in your area and find a good shop ie.. One where the salesman asks the questions listed by forbidden. Listen to the salesman, cuz if you find the right shop then that guy is going to know what he is talking about.
Back to the size question. One 12 will be more than enough, if all the other stuff (amp, head unit, box, etc) is done right. Just understand that the sub itself will only be 1/3 to 1/4 of the total price. Expect to spent more money on AMP and stuff that you spent on the sub.
The bottom line is......what sub you buy is only a small part of the equation. It is an important part, but there is a whole lot more too it. Good luck.
#50
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I'm sure my W6 could handle more power, say a 500/1, but I just didn't think I would need more than a 250. JL underestimates the power for their amps anyway. For example my 250's birth sheet showed something like 318 wrms. I have only regretted not getting the 500/1 once or twice. You would be surprised how hard this set up hits (its in a hatchback), I don't need it any louder.
For a more specific answer JL recommends 400 watts RMS for the 12W6, and it can handle MUCH more than that.
For a more specific answer JL recommends 400 watts RMS for the 12W6, and it can handle MUCH more than that.
Last edited by Solidtrance; 03-22-2008 at 08:31 AM.