bose speakers with JL subs... help
#1
bose speakers with JL subs... help
Okay i have the factory bose speakers and i got 2 10w6v2 JL subs powered by a JL 500/1 amp.. now my problem is the system BUMPS even with my bass **** and HU bass at -6 it still has toooooo much bass at volume levels lower then about 11ish.. and in the mornings i dont always want to crank the system up and for relax lisening i want to play it at about volume 3-5... now would upgraded speakers help the so the bass wont drain out the music in lower volumes? i dont wanna have to changes the subs or anything but is there any way i can fix this problem?
on a side not with the HU at 0 and the bass **** between 0-35% turned up and volume at like 17ish this set up BUMPS nicee and everything sounds clean.. so my problem only lies when played at low volumes...
thanks in advance, any help would be greatly appriciated.
on a side not with the HU at 0 and the bass **** between 0-35% turned up and volume at like 17ish this set up BUMPS nicee and everything sounds clean.. so my problem only lies when played at low volumes...
thanks in advance, any help would be greatly appriciated.
#2
This is exactly the reason as to why a proper interface adaptor is used instead of a LOC, to give the user proper control over their system. A proper interface adaptor will have it's own level control specific to the subwoofer output section. Thus the bass control on the cd player will be left in the center position instead of turned all the way down where as it sits it causes a major loss of tonal response in the rest of the system as it is overwhelmed by the sub. You need a proper interface adaptor like the Audio Control LC6 + bass remote (that fits in the knockout panel to the lower left of the steering wheel).
This is 100% totally different than a remote bass control that is generally a bass boost. We are talking about a level control and not a boost control. If you already have this proper interface adaptor in the mix, then turn the gain down on the amp and on the output section of the interface as well.
This is 100% totally different than a remote bass control that is generally a bass boost. We are talking about a level control and not a boost control. If you already have this proper interface adaptor in the mix, then turn the gain down on the amp and on the output section of the interface as well.
#3
Since you already have the 500/1 the easiest solution would be to buy the Remote Bass Controller for the JL amp, set a conservative input, and you will have all the control you need. Thats what I did for mine.
Although this is exactly what forbidden is against, there is an "easy" way and a "right" way....
Although this is exactly what forbidden is against, there is an "easy" way and a "right" way....
#4
Originally Posted by forbidden
This is exactly the reason as to why a proper interface adaptor is used instead of a LOC, to give the user proper control over their system. A proper interface adaptor will have it's own level control specific to the subwoofer output section. Thus the bass control on the cd player will be left in the center position instead of turned all the way down where as it sits it causes a major loss of tonal response in the rest of the system as it is overwhelmed by the sub. You need a proper interface adaptor like the Audio Control LC6 + bass remote (that fits in the knockout panel to the lower left of the steering wheel).
This is 100% totally different than a remote bass control that is generally a bass boost. We are talking about a level control and not a boost control. If you already have this proper interface adaptor in the mix, then turn the gain down on the amp and on the output section of the interface as well.
This is 100% totally different than a remote bass control that is generally a bass boost. We are talking about a level control and not a boost control. If you already have this proper interface adaptor in the mix, then turn the gain down on the amp and on the output section of the interface as well.
#5
The remote is taken apart and the box removed. (the box is about 1.5" x 2" x 2 ") Then it is installed into the knockout panel.
www.audiocontrol.com
www.audiocontrol.com
#6
LiL BenNy,
What signals are you using to go to your JL amp?
There are 4 sets of signals you can use. Front and Rear signals before the Bose Amp and Front and Rear signals after the Bose amp.
Believe it or not ALL of thoses signals are speaker level including the ones coming into the Bose amp.
The signals coming into the Bose amp have far less processing than those leaving the Bose amp - so I recommend you use those (front or rear depending on your taste). Also the "BASS" control on the Headunit is not shelf type bass control but a single frequency type that is centered at 100Hz. It has almost NO effect at 40Hz and below even if you set it to +6 or -6.
A little more info would help if you can explain your complete set-up.
-Mr. Wigggles
What signals are you using to go to your JL amp?
There are 4 sets of signals you can use. Front and Rear signals before the Bose Amp and Front and Rear signals after the Bose amp.
Believe it or not ALL of thoses signals are speaker level including the ones coming into the Bose amp.
The signals coming into the Bose amp have far less processing than those leaving the Bose amp - so I recommend you use those (front or rear depending on your taste). Also the "BASS" control on the Headunit is not shelf type bass control but a single frequency type that is centered at 100Hz. It has almost NO effect at 40Hz and below even if you set it to +6 or -6.
A little more info would help if you can explain your complete set-up.
-Mr. Wigggles
#7
Originally Posted by forbidden
The remote is taken apart and the box removed. (the box is about 1.5" x 2" x 2 ") Then it is installed into the knockout panel.
www.audiocontrol.com
www.audiocontrol.com
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