Can you guys check out my audio build?
#1
Can you guys check out my audio build?
I listen to mostly post hardcore, rock, and a little dubstep and other drums and bass music.
I'm mostly happy with the bose speakers but of course i feel like im lacking in the low ends so this is what I have planned. I want clean hits that sound good, not super bass heavy boom booms.
2 10" subs: http://www.woofersetc.com/p-4992-id1...subwoofer.aspx
500watt amp: http://www.amazon.com/JL-AUDIO-500-A...6483020&sr=8-1
enclosure: http://cgi.ebay.com/Mazda-Rx8-Subwoo...item439cf90e10
anything that im doing wrong? also will be ordering a bass **** for the amp if i end up going with that one. all i've heard is good things about iD subs, and i assume the amp is quality too? no idea i know nothing about audio so thanks for checking it ^_^
I'm mostly happy with the bose speakers but of course i feel like im lacking in the low ends so this is what I have planned. I want clean hits that sound good, not super bass heavy boom booms.
2 10" subs: http://www.woofersetc.com/p-4992-id1...subwoofer.aspx
500watt amp: http://www.amazon.com/JL-AUDIO-500-A...6483020&sr=8-1
enclosure: http://cgi.ebay.com/Mazda-Rx8-Subwoo...item439cf90e10
anything that im doing wrong? also will be ordering a bass **** for the amp if i end up going with that one. all i've heard is good things about iD subs, and i assume the amp is quality too? no idea i know nothing about audio so thanks for checking it ^_^
#2
I just go with leading brands that I know produce quality sound. Unfortunely I cant really give my thoughts on these products because I dont have any personl experience with them, and I am also blocked from viewing that site at my office.
#3
2 10" subs are going to produce alot of Bass. IMO too much to match with the factory bose. However you would be able to control the level with the Bass Remote. Also that cabinet with the Subs will add Mucho weight....
here is an alternative....
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-BTA10100.html
here is an alternative....
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-BTA10100.html
#6
#8
I'm just getting my setup running, but am so far pleased with the results. I agree 2x10" is overkill and unnecessarily heavy. Am also aiming for bass that's there but not enough to get arrested. Every mod drives every other mod, so here's what I went with.
1) Kenwood 6104D amp: http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...iers/KAC-6104D ; In most installs, people talk about having to run 0, 2, or 4 gauge wire from the battery to the trunk, plus caps and so on. I really wanted to avoid this. First method is to keep the power modest. But perhaps more important is the type of amp. Most are Class A/B which are at best 50% efficient in turning electrical power into output power. This level of efficiency however is achieved only at full output. Because an A/B is drawing power at even 0 output, the efficiency falls off at lower power. With a too-large A/B amp, you really pay for (in power consumption) the output capacity that you aren't using. A Class D amp by contrast, has power efficiencies near 90% throughout its operation range. While full-range Class D's can have problems with harmonic distortion, a sub requires a range of frequencies that are quite comfortable for the type. The Kenwood is quite small, plus requires running only 10 ga wire which is much easier to do.
2) Is 200 W of power into 4 ohms enough? For me, yes. I'm using the line-level inputs connected to the rear speakers. With the Bose, those levels are on the low side, but it's okay with the 6104's input sensitivity dialed towards the top. The output into 2 ohms is listed as 300 W, however, so if I needed more, having a dual voice coil speaker allows that when wired to the Kenwood's dual outputs.
3) Single 4080 enclosure on RHS. A right-side mount lets the speaker balance a bit against driver weight. It's a very nice, secure fit, and can be easily removed.
The main disadvantage of the 6104D is the lack of remote volume control. The bass setting on the Bose however does influence things quite strongly. Also, I put the remote on/off into a pushbutton in the console, since I probably don't want to listen to NPR with the full bass response.
No regrets so far!
1) Kenwood 6104D amp: http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...iers/KAC-6104D ; In most installs, people talk about having to run 0, 2, or 4 gauge wire from the battery to the trunk, plus caps and so on. I really wanted to avoid this. First method is to keep the power modest. But perhaps more important is the type of amp. Most are Class A/B which are at best 50% efficient in turning electrical power into output power. This level of efficiency however is achieved only at full output. Because an A/B is drawing power at even 0 output, the efficiency falls off at lower power. With a too-large A/B amp, you really pay for (in power consumption) the output capacity that you aren't using. A Class D amp by contrast, has power efficiencies near 90% throughout its operation range. While full-range Class D's can have problems with harmonic distortion, a sub requires a range of frequencies that are quite comfortable for the type. The Kenwood is quite small, plus requires running only 10 ga wire which is much easier to do.
2) Is 200 W of power into 4 ohms enough? For me, yes. I'm using the line-level inputs connected to the rear speakers. With the Bose, those levels are on the low side, but it's okay with the 6104's input sensitivity dialed towards the top. The output into 2 ohms is listed as 300 W, however, so if I needed more, having a dual voice coil speaker allows that when wired to the Kenwood's dual outputs.
3) Single 4080 enclosure on RHS. A right-side mount lets the speaker balance a bit against driver weight. It's a very nice, secure fit, and can be easily removed.
The main disadvantage of the 6104D is the lack of remote volume control. The bass setting on the Bose however does influence things quite strongly. Also, I put the remote on/off into a pushbutton in the console, since I probably don't want to listen to NPR with the full bass response.
No regrets so far!
#9
Wow. People are quick to respond today...
Most everyone touched upon my thoughts after reading your post. You said you're mostly happy with the Bose system, just needs more low end. Well two 10" subs are a LOT of low end in the 8. If you're happy with the rest of the Bose system, then I honestly think I would pop in a 200W self-amplified 8" or possibly 10" Bazooka Tube and call it a day. Plenty of added bass without plenty of added weight, money or installation. Problem solved for $200-$250 and two hours of your time....tops.
As a side note, I added a 8" 200W Bazooka tube to an Audi S4 (pretty well built car) and was damned impressed by the amount of thump it added. PLENTY to round out any stock system. If you're really worried about output, then get the 10". But, maybe I'm getting old, my next car is just going to have a self contained amplified sub. I had two 15" L7s when I was younger, now I just don't want to/have time/have money/don't care to blast it that loud. The 8" would be fine for me. I don't really use the two 10"s I have now.
Most everyone touched upon my thoughts after reading your post. You said you're mostly happy with the Bose system, just needs more low end. Well two 10" subs are a LOT of low end in the 8. If you're happy with the rest of the Bose system, then I honestly think I would pop in a 200W self-amplified 8" or possibly 10" Bazooka Tube and call it a day. Plenty of added bass without plenty of added weight, money or installation. Problem solved for $200-$250 and two hours of your time....tops.
As a side note, I added a 8" 200W Bazooka tube to an Audi S4 (pretty well built car) and was damned impressed by the amount of thump it added. PLENTY to round out any stock system. If you're really worried about output, then get the 10". But, maybe I'm getting old, my next car is just going to have a self contained amplified sub. I had two 15" L7s when I was younger, now I just don't want to/have time/have money/don't care to blast it that loud. The 8" would be fine for me. I don't really use the two 10"s I have now.
#10
Wow. People are quick to respond today...
Most everyone touched upon my thoughts after reading your post. You said you're mostly happy with the Bose system, just needs more low end. Well two 10" subs are a LOT of low end in the 8. If you're happy with the rest of the Bose system, then I honestly think I would pop in a 200W self-amplified 8" or possibly 10" Bazooka Tube and call it a day. Plenty of added bass without plenty of added weight, money or installation. Problem solved for $200-$250 and two hours of your time....tops.
Most everyone touched upon my thoughts after reading your post. You said you're mostly happy with the Bose system, just needs more low end. Well two 10" subs are a LOT of low end in the 8. If you're happy with the rest of the Bose system, then I honestly think I would pop in a 200W self-amplified 8" or possibly 10" Bazooka Tube and call it a day. Plenty of added bass without plenty of added weight, money or installation. Problem solved for $200-$250 and two hours of your time....tops.
I'd have gone the bazooka route myself probably, except I'm one of the few old-schoolers who have a spare tire. That means no way to mount it behind the rear seats. I made a box mockup of the BassLink too, and tried to find a place to fit it in, but with either, the amount of space it would have taken was not acceptable. This, and a good deal used from InfiniFC, led me to the 4080 enclosure. The OP was showing a $550 amp, so perhaps cost isn't a major factor for him. My whole setup would run about that retail.
Most of us find with age, the enjoyment of really loud music (or loud sound of any kind) decreases. I find I'm not the only one wearing ear plugs to rock concerts and dance clubs these days.
#11
The 4080 boxes are nice (I have them), but they are damn expensive. Expense aside, you still have to mount an external amp somewhere in the trunk. All these costs/hassles/time added together, for me at least, offset the end result when only looking for a little more bass. The Bazooka tubes are nearly plug and play, take up little space, are cheap, and have plenty of output.
If you listen to rap and want to your 8 to slam... sure, add the box the OP linked to, a pair of 12"s, and a big external amp. Let er rip. Otherwise, it's just not worth it to get ***** deep into it. Coming from a person with two 10"s, pick one side of the fence or the other.
If you listen to rap and want to your 8 to slam... sure, add the box the OP linked to, a pair of 12"s, and a big external amp. Let er rip. Otherwise, it's just not worth it to get ***** deep into it. Coming from a person with two 10"s, pick one side of the fence or the other.
#12
The 4080 boxes are nice (I have them), but they are damn expensive. Expense aside, you still have to mount an external amp somewhere in the trunk. All these costs/hassles/time added together, for me at least, offset the end result when only looking for a little more bass. The Bazooka tubes are nearly plug and play, take up little space, are cheap, and have plenty of output.
If you listen to rap and want to your 8 to slam... sure, add the box the OP linked to, a pair of 12"s, and a big external amp. Let er rip. Otherwise, it's just not worth it to get ***** deep into it. Coming from a person with two 10"s, pick one side of the fence or the other.
If you listen to rap and want to your 8 to slam... sure, add the box the OP linked to, a pair of 12"s, and a big external amp. Let er rip. Otherwise, it's just not worth it to get ***** deep into it. Coming from a person with two 10"s, pick one side of the fence or the other.
#13
This SOOOO used to be me. It still is on some small level, but I guess my life has gotten much more busy. I'll always do all my own installs. But at the same time, I'm looking for more function. Being an easy quick install, easily removable, looks decent enough, cheap, but yet still effective is just more desirable to me. Better all around value to this customer.
If you have legit constraints due to size, spare tires, storage preferences, etc then by all means, do what you have to do.
If you have legit constraints due to size, spare tires, storage preferences, etc then by all means, do what you have to do.
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