Connectors for Bose Amp
#1
Connectors for Bose Amp
Does anyone know where to get or what the mfg/part number is for the two connectors on the Bose amp? I would like to get a male and female version so that I can make a 'tap' cable to avoid having to put crimps on the original wiring. The idea would be to make a short cable that plugs in between the amp and the factory connector. The taps/crimps could then be placed on the intermediate cable.
#2
If you find the plug part numbers you will then need the male and female pin part numbers also. Then if you don't want to solder, you will need the correct pin crimper and probably a pin extractor.
I personally just cut the wires and soldered in RCA plugs on both sides. I have the outputs of the HU running to a JL CleanSweep then back into the amp running some tweeters. The CleanSweep eliminated any factory EQ curves to the amp. I also added a volume control before the amp to help w/ staging. If I need to go back to factory, all I have to do is remove the CleanSweep and reconnect the RCA plugs to the amp.
This is probably cheaper than your option, especially if you do not have the tools already.
I personally just cut the wires and soldered in RCA plugs on both sides. I have the outputs of the HU running to a JL CleanSweep then back into the amp running some tweeters. The CleanSweep eliminated any factory EQ curves to the amp. I also added a volume control before the amp to help w/ staging. If I need to go back to factory, all I have to do is remove the CleanSweep and reconnect the RCA plugs to the amp.
This is probably cheaper than your option, especially if you do not have the tools already.
#7
ive been reading many threads about this and most of them say to tap into the wires before the bose amp. Where is the best place to tap into as I have a LC6 and have tapped before the amp into the rear speakers but cant really feel the bass (have a rockford T1 so it should thump), I have to gain the amp and LC6 excessively to hear it a little, but i know this is not good for the sub
#8
jstkilntim is right it depends on what equipment you are planning to go with.... I am probably going with a 6xs or something similar I havent made up my mind...
However I believe with the LC6 you can go post amp since they are built to handle that and sum up the signals to supposedly remove the eqing... not sure how well it works...
also setting the gain high isn't necessarily bad you just have to set them correctly is the biggest key...
Also you have a fosgate T1 but what size and what power do you have going to it and is it sealed... etc etc it depends on a bit more then just a sub
Also the LC6 I thought was also a line driver so you should be able to set the output coming out from it higher voltage wise...
However I believe with the LC6 you can go post amp since they are built to handle that and sum up the signals to supposedly remove the eqing... not sure how well it works...
also setting the gain high isn't necessarily bad you just have to set them correctly is the biggest key...
Also you have a fosgate T1 but what size and what power do you have going to it and is it sealed... etc etc it depends on a bit more then just a sub
Also the LC6 I thought was also a line driver so you should be able to set the output coming out from it higher voltage wise...
Last edited by LoSx; 03-25-2008 at 04:18 PM.
#9
i have a box similar to the 4080 boxes, sealed and within the recomendations for the t1 10" sub. sub is 600wrms and im running a 5002 amp (which is rated at 500wrms)
sometimes it sounds alright, but alot of the time its like its not getting the right frequency or something coz you cant hear it at all. everytime i hear my brothers set up (full audio change, not just sub into a stock head unit) it sounds so much better and i know that mine (sub at least) should be better than his
sometimes it sounds alright, but alot of the time its like its not getting the right frequency or something coz you cant hear it at all. everytime i hear my brothers set up (full audio change, not just sub into a stock head unit) it sounds so much better and i know that mine (sub at least) should be better than his
#10
Correct, I am looking for the part numbers for the male and female connector. As you mention, I realize I will have to either solder or crimp pins.
#11
All AudioControl equipment is top notch. I have personally installed a 6XS, DQS, DDC & Epicenter. All have worked flawlessly and as advertised.
XJR83N- You would be better off tapping after the amp w/ the LC6. Double tripple check all of your + & -. Just one of them wrong anywhere in the system will flatten evertything out. However, your main problem is probably from tapping before the amp w/ a LC6.
I had the 6XS which worked great, but then changed to a JL CleanSweep for the aux input. I have to say I like the results of the JL a little more.
XJR83N- You would be better off tapping after the amp w/ the LC6. Double tripple check all of your + & -. Just one of them wrong anywhere in the system will flatten evertything out. However, your main problem is probably from tapping before the amp w/ a LC6.
I had the 6XS which worked great, but then changed to a JL CleanSweep for the aux input. I have to say I like the results of the JL a little more.
Last edited by jstkilntim; 03-25-2008 at 07:55 PM.
#12
so after the amp hey, well i better rewire my system this weekend then lol!
just another question, and yes i have searched, can someone tell me where to tap AFTER the bose amp for Front Left and Right + & - and Rear Left and Right + & -.
Also, I have seen people say that they add the sub to the front channel instead of the rear, what you you guys recomend?
just another question, and yes i have searched, can someone tell me where to tap AFTER the bose amp for Front Left and Right + & - and Rear Left and Right + & -.
Also, I have seen people say that they add the sub to the front channel instead of the rear, what you you guys recomend?
#13
I will try to find the link later for the wiring.
Yes, add the sub to the front channel. This way, if you fade out the rear for staging, which most people end up doing, your sub level will not be affected.
Yes, add the sub to the front channel. This way, if you fade out the rear for staging, which most people end up doing, your sub level will not be affected.
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