ReZ-8

ok, so i finally got what i wanted, almost (wanted 15")
sub is facing inside the cabin, box finishes flush with "cargo" hole.
tire repair kit still mounted.

now for the fun stuff... did you know there is a remote amp turn-on signal going inside the bose amp? Right next to the wires for sound input. So no messin with the cig lighter ****.

12v 4gauge is tight to run on driver's side... still fits but barely

finding ground was easy, unclip left side of inside trunk, you will see a factory ground point...

3M-style splice-connects work great

I have an old (but only 2 days out of box!) MTX 2300 amp, running a 2ohm DVC ReAudio 12" XXX driver rated 1600W RMS, signal prepped by MC AudioControl LC6 himself.

Oddly enough, My LC6 friend is always powered on. And if I've read correctly, should only turn on when signal detected or remote-activated. The friggin thing is always on... not only that, it has a remote-out, to trigger-on other equipment, so my amp was also always on too... So I left the LC6 plugged-in, and use the remote solely on my amp, which runs A1. I'm saying that because when i had the remote wire on the LC6, very loud, brutal pops occured when system turned on or off LC6 draws near to no power i think... so i'm good with that.

But the amp draws....... gets REAL hot too!... in fact, it's not rated to run 2ohms bridged I can hear a little high squeely sound coming from or around the alternator... in fact... how much current is left for the amp in the end? 80a?
Amp is rated 600W @ 4ohm bridged, so i think we're doubling that because i'm running 2ohms... so 1200W needs how much current? amp has 3 x 30a fuses... the fuse next to battery is a stinger 150a.

It's nice to hear a bass drum sound like a bass drum again.
Sound is good, although an EQ would really help mix sub bass with Bose bass.
I've tweaked it a few times to get overall betterness, but still, my ears tell me something's odd. Maybe i'll lower the gains on the amp again

WikkedOne

interesting install.. never heard of the "reaudio" brand but then again i'm not that deep in the car audio world.. I am looking for a new 12 myself.. that sounds like it would be an interesting replacement..

what kind of box did you use? (size, sealed?)
do you have any pics?

and it is a debated issue.. but most people (including me) don't like that ground you used... If you test it with a voltmeter you should get WELL under .5 ohms to be considered an OK ground. My car got a full ohm of resistance.. and that along with your amp probably isn't rated for a bridged 2 ohm load...Read the ground thread

what have you done with your amp? are you doing anything about the heat?

Has anyone else heard of those subs? should I consider them to be a replacement of my Type X 12? (thats your que Forbidden guide me)

blacxicano

ReAudio = Resonant Engineering.....very good brand

ReZ-8

It's a sealed box i've made, it measures 13" high, 12" deep (10" on shorter side, to make an angle that ressembles backseats), 24" long. 1" thick MDF all around. internal volume is 1.26 cu.feet (excluding driver).

My sub recommendss a 0.8 cu.feet sealed box, but i did the math and to get a Qtc of 0.707, I would need a 0.94 cu feet box. I figured 0.32 cu feet for driver displacement (ReAudio's website did not mention actual driver displacement), so it comes to 0.94+0.32=1.26. Close enough

It is true that i did not test that ground for resistance. but it did look like a very good ground, no paint, etc. And why would mazda use a ground that has resistance? Who has debated that same ground point? I would like more info on the subject!


Well... amp has been bridged mono to two ohms, since my sub has two voice coils.
My amp IS rated 2 ohm stereo, but not mono... (?) Heat is not a real concern right now, it does get hot, but nothing to be alarmed about i believe.


It is in the same league as the Brahma (adire audio), JL's W7's, etc...
I like it, sounds good with any type of music, as long as you don't feed it too much gain, because it totally overpowers the rest of the system!

If I had to do it all over again, I would probably go with a single 10" driver, something a little more "musical", with less sacrified space & weight. Sub alone is 60pounds, so with box+amp i would be around 100 pounds!

Here are some pics, but mind you the box is not carpeted, wiring is not organized, and nothing is secured in place. but i'm almost done!

JPotta

Nice choice in sub. I think it would be louder and sound better if you set it in that cavity in the trunk floor and face it twards the rear. Just a suggestion. I have two 10w7's and two JL 500/1's.

ReZ-8

i agree, although i need that truck space

I also like the idea of the sub being visible when removing the backseat access.

It's loud enough, my electrical system is the bottleneck now

no dice

im fairly sure the amp heating up is a good sign of thermal failure. If its rated at 4 ohms, stepping down to 2 ohms should help you thermal that unit out in no time.

And i believe your ears are telling you there is something wrong, and its the fact that youre about to blow your amp :P

ReZ-8

well, i've got the gains up at about 25% on the amp... would the 2ohm load be really of concern at low volume?

no dice

Technically, 25% gain at the original rating should be 150w, since youve effectively doubled that, you should currently be at 300w. Thats assuming 0 gain is 0 watts...

forbidden

RE is continuing to prove itself more and more every day, it is a line that I would be comfortable recommending to others. Make darn sure that the surround of your speaker cannot make contact with the back area of the seat. If it does, you will be looking for a new sub in real short order.

Read the grounding sticky for more info on the known issues of grounding in this vehicle. You need to find out if you have a good ground or not is the issue in front of you.

To be safe to the amp, I would rewire the sub into a single 8 ohm load by wiring the voice coils in series. Then connect to the bridged terminals on the amp.

JPotta

The gain doesnt always reflect the output of the amp. I have my gains all the way down with a 8v input and im getting 100% of my amps output.