My components:

From MP3Car.com:
Carnetix CNX-P2140 185W Dual Output Intelligent DC-DC Regulator
MacPac Power Cable Kit
Xenarc 700TSV

From MazdaParts.com:
Retractable LCD / Nav Holder for RX-8

From AutoEnginuity.com:
USB PC-based OBD-II ScanTool

Already on hand:
Apple Intel Mac Mini (Core Duo)
Holux GPSlim236
PS3 Wireless Thumbpad

I'm also considering adding a Valentine V-1 radar detector, a Fusion Brain and a USB EVDO adapter.

Most of the parts should be here by this friday, the rest next week. I'll be posting a picture log and possibly a video log of my build.

 

Now if you could find a way to wire in the arrows of the V-1 into the display of the Mac Mini.. that would be hotness.

 

Yeah I had actually wanted to try and break out the front and rear detectors from the Valentine and mount them so it would be less conspicuous but in the FAQ on their site they were talking about how the delay is calibrated and all that. Might be worth an email to them about though. If it's possible I'd like to have just the sensors peeking out and have the unit hidden or integrated into the CarPC.

 

Thread about this just started over on mp3car.com

Going to be a USB/Bluetooth interface between the V1 and PC by emulating the Concealed Display for the V1.

Now if we can only figure out how to remote mount the V1's front and rear sensors we'd be all set.

 

Parts from MP3Car.com arrived today, AutoEnginuity.com ScanTool should be here tomorrow and I expect the MazdaParts.com dash piece towards the end of next week.

The only thing missing right now is the HU interface for audio (preferably SPDIF) and steering wheel/HU display stuff. What are people using for this sort of thing right now? From what I can tell most solutions use the CD Changer or Satellite input ports on the HU, does anyone have specs for these? All I could find was Miata info.

 

I used the PIE + Mbus car2pc.
Works great. I’m using the built-in sound car on the pc and it sounds really good. Not sure if it works with a mac

 

I'm using the Car2PC-MAZ

 

Also using Car2PC-Maz

 

Just ordered a Car2PC-Maz, I suspect it's just a FTDI TTL Serial->USB converter with a 3.5mm audio jack. If this is the case I'll be designing an open source version to share with you guys so others can save ~$50 on it.

Dash should arrive from MazdaParts.com tomorrow, will wait for the CarPC2-Maz to arrive (Thursday?) to actually start installing the kit.

 

MazdaParts Dash and AutoEnginuity ScanTool arrived today, going to begin assembling the display into the dash piece today and plan on installing it tomorrow when the CarPC2-Maz arrives.

 

Got the Xenarc installed into the new Nav Hood but am still waiting on the Car2PC-Maz. Right now I'm slightly pissed at GromAudio seeing as their site states 1 day shipping but it took them 2 days to process my order and then they only shipped it 2-3 day USPS.

Right now the Car2PC-Maz is the only thing holding up my install - hopefully others will be able to find a company with better customer service to get comparable parts from in the future.

 

Finally got the Car2PC-Maz today from GromAudio, took 6 days to get here - a bit longer than that '1 day shipping' quoted on their site.

Anyway, I'm looking into how to properly wire my CarNetix p2140 in my RX-8 and as soon as I sort that out I'll be installing it - hopefully tomorrow.

If anyone has some links to how other people wired up a 2140/1900 in their RX-8 please link me, I haven't been able to find any good instructions yet.

 

Tried to hook up my Holux GPSlim236 today and found out that something about the USB interface is screwed up. Going to open it up and see if I can fix it but I'm tempted to just get a GM862 Evaluation Kit from SparkFun and use it as a lo-jack in addition to providing GPS to the CarPuter.

Anyone else doing something like this?

 

What most do not understand...one day shipping means after its shipped will get to your house in one day. Orders take time to process and package.

 

True, but they also sent it 2-3 day USPS.

 

I scrounged around and found where I'm getting my constant power, ignition sense and ground from - the drivers side fuse box with 2 Add a Circuits from Pet Boys.

Still haven't figured out how to get a door unlock pulse since the green wire going to the unlock mechanism shorts to ground to accomplish the unlock.

Hoping to start my install this afternoon, should be able to get everything but the pulse start on the p2140 working.

 

how do you like the screen mount from Mazdaparts? I am thinking of getting the same unit.

Maybe I missed it but where are you planning on mounting the carputer?

 

It's a nice mount, installed easily and looks good. The downside is that it's manual operation but I only plan on putting the screen away when I go to the mall and such as I have secure parking at home and work.

Right now my Mac Mini is chilling in the glovebox but I may have to move it elsewhere due to heat issues - not sure yet.

Anyone know if the glovebox has climate control in the 8's?

 

If you live in a hot climate the glove box is the best place for your PC and p2140. The A/C vent that feeds the passenger side runs directly over glove box and cools it so long as A/C is on.

I tapped one of my rear signal lights for pulse start with the P2140 works like a charm. Just be a little careful with pulse start with the 2140 as you can accidentally leave your PC on. For example take keys out of ignition, this will send a shutdown pulse to P2140 then take a few minutes to exit your car ( like taking groceries out of trunk). When you press the lock button on your key remote to lock doors it will send a pulse and turn your PC back on (not cool).

An easy work around is to set the Shut Down delay or SD_DLY on the Carnetix PSUmoni application to like 10 minutes. Your PC will stay on for 10 minutes after removing the key from the ignition (wont harm anything). The P2140 will ignore any pulse start for the 10 minutes giving you time to get groceries out, pump gas etc without the worry of turning PC back on accidentally.

 

Cool, I found out what was causing my shutdown issues with the Mac Mini - I had the 2140 outputting 12v to it instead of 18.5v Whoops!

Other than that things seem to be working OK, where did you tap the rear signal lights at? I was almost thinking of cooking up a simple circuit to connect to the door lock wire to detect ground for pulse start.

 

With the amount of sun we get here in San Diego I almost wished I'd bought the transflective screen but I still can't justify the $700 for it yet, maybe when I start using the computer more as a GPS instead of a jukebox I'll lay out for it.

Anyone else here with the transflective?

 

Thats not a recommended way to cool your carputer. Condensation from the AC will destroy the computer over time.

 

I just spliced into the positive lead from the rear signal light and connected it to the blue pulse start cable on the J1 (Input Power Connector) of the 2140. I was also performing a complete stereo upgrade at the time so every thing was taken apart making it easy to run a line from the rear signal to the 2140.

I don't think condensation will be an issue in the glove box so long as PC is running while the A/C is on as PC components run fairly hot.

The A/C vent running over the glove box while cool does not get extremely cold also keep in mind the A/C does not vent directly into the glove box.

Condensation is result of warm moisture-laden air contacting a colder surface, PC components run hot not cold thus I don't see the concern.

Even if the PC were off while the A/C is running I don't think there is enough moisture or cooling of the glove box to cause condensation as I have never felt any moisture on the A/C vent the runs over the glove box ( I live in South Florida its extremely humid).

I work as a network administator and every server room I have ever been in has been extremly cold. I'm not saying that it cant' happen but I've never seen a server or any other rack equipment damaged by condensation. Conversely what I have seen is server room equipment damaged by heat due to lack of cooling.

That just my 2 cents

 

I see what you're saying, however, i've had water drip down my dash from the ac vents before. Not often, but it has happened.


if you search mp3car.com you'll see that most don't think it's a good idea.

 

Yep I've got a transflective makes a huge difference in sunlight its a bit pricey but I think worth the investment.

You may have seen water drip from the A/C vent where the cool air exits in the cabin, but I dont think you will ever have condenstation on the outside wall of the vent that runs above the glove box the A/C vent does not vent air directly into the glove box. I've been driving for over 20 years and have never seen water drip down a dashboard caused by condensation from an A/C vent (not saying it can't happen just never seen it).

As far as mouniting PC in glove box, I spend a fair amount of time on mp3car.com and may have missed it but I've never seen any post advising not to mount PC in glove box.

Concerning codensation this isn't the first time I heard the statement about A/C causing condensation on a PC. Most people forget that Condensation is result of warm moisture-laden air contacting a colder surface. The condition in the glove box is the exact opposite, the PC components are hot giving off dry hot air, the warm air rises then is cooled by the A/C vent. The only concern for condensation would be on the outside of the A/C vent, PC's do not produce moisture thus I dont see the concern.

If the logic of A/C causing condensation in PC's were true a home PC or any other electronic equiment lets say TV would drip water when it came into contact with air cooled from an A/C. Sorry to rant but I've seen and heard the A/C causing condensation in a PC statment several times but have never seen anyone provide information on how this occurs.