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Old 11-27-2008 | 04:57 AM
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HELP - CarPc Installation Question - Power -

I ve been doing a lot of search regarding the installation of a CarPc

I bought a Factory Nav Housing , create a circuit regarding open / tilt / motor functions, everything perfect, i bought a mini atx with bult in m2-atx power supply 160W,

Now some questions:
1) The Circuit of the Nav Housing has two cables , positive (+)and negative(-), as far as i can understand i ran the positive cable to the fuse box to one spare fuse (ign) right? and the negative to a suitable metal area? (the LCT monitor powers up form the M2 atx power supply)



2) The M2 ATX has one positive (constant) , one negative, one ignition cable , can i ran the constant power cable, instead of the battery in the fusebox in a suitable fuse with 12V constant , or i have to go to the battery straight?


Please help

John
Old 11-27-2008 | 08:44 AM
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how did you do the circuit board open/tilt function? i bought a nav housing as well but i dont have the harness that connects in the back
Old 11-27-2008 | 12:18 PM
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it is better to go straight to the battery for constant,for ign use the green wire on the middle 12v socket and negative on a good metal surface
Old 11-27-2008 | 01:01 PM
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From: NYC
Originally Posted by JK2539
I ve been doing a lot of search regarding the installation of a CarPc

I bought a Factory Nav Housing , create a circuit regarding open / tilt / motor functions, everything perfect, i bought a mini atx with bult in m2-atx power supply 160W,

Now some questions:
1) The Circuit of the Nav Housing has two cables , positive (+)and negative(-), as far as i can understand i ran the positive cable to the fuse box to one spare fuse (ign) right? and the negative to a suitable metal area? (the LCT monitor powers up form the M2 atx power supply)



2) The M2 ATX has one positive (constant) , one negative, one ignition cable , can i ran the constant power cable, instead of the battery in the fusebox in a suitable fuse with 12V constant , or i have to go to the battery straight?


Please help

John
when you refer to the "circuit of the nav housing" is it your own pcb? then you would know more about that then any of us.. what I did to get my nav housing to work in my car I just soldered a few wires from the pin outs in the back to their respective locations.. 12v, acc, and ground. check my thread for the pinout labels.

as for the m2 atx - run the constant 12v line to the battery directly... then within 12 inches OF THE BATTERY put in an inline fuse.. 15 amps should be enough. the white wire is ignition (front socket) and the black is ground, I grounded it to the rear strut tower in the trunk.
Old 11-28-2008 | 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Bighurk
how did you do the circuit board open/tilt function? i bought a nav housing as well but i dont have the harness that connects in the back
I own a marine electronic company , so i gave to my technicians a draw which i found in this forum and they made it, it is not something special , if you want i can make one for you or for anybody

john
Old 11-28-2008 | 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by CostasX8
it is better to go straight to the battery for constant,for ign use the green wire on the middle 12v socket and negative on a good metal surface
when you saying middle 12v socket , do you mean in lighter, or am i total stupid?
Old 11-28-2008 | 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by alz0rz
when you refer to the "circuit of the nav housing" is it your own pcb? then you would know more about that then any of us.. what I did to get my nav housing to work in my car I just soldered a few wires from the pin outs in the back to their respective locations.. 12v, acc, and ground. check my thread for the pinout labels.

as for the m2 atx - run the constant 12v line to the battery directly... then within 12 inches OF THE BATTERY put in an inline fuse.. 15 amps should be enough. the white wire is ignition (front socket) and the black is ground, I grounded it to the rear strut tower in the trunk.
Yes my own pcb , from a drawing from this forum (attached) and i made it , it is excellent ,

When you saying front socket , you mean the lighter?


john
Old 11-28-2008 | 11:21 AM
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Yes , lighter
Old 11-28-2008 | 05:27 PM
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From: Downtown L.A.
Originally Posted by JK2539
I own a marine electronic company , so i gave to my technicians a draw which i found in this forum and they made it, it is not something special , if you want i can make one for you or for anybody

john
can you make one for me? i appreciate it. im in the process of making my carputer rightnow i only have the screen and dash, gonna get a pico-itx board pretty soon
Old 11-29-2008 | 01:41 AM
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I cannot understand why ppl make a new board to work???
You just solder 3 wires on the back (12v,ign and ground)There is a diagram somewhere) and just remove the LCD ONLY from the hood and install the new one... that`s it!
Old 11-29-2008 | 01:54 AM
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From: NYC
Originally Posted by CostasX8
I cannot understand why ppl make a new board to work???
You just solder 3 wires on the back (12v,ign and ground)There is a diagram somewhere) and just remove the LCD ONLY from the hood and install the new one... that`s it!
With a separate board you can completely remove the original factory board. This way you don't have to cram 2 pcbs in the housing..
Old 11-29-2008 | 02:26 AM
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alz0rz, it wasn`t such a big deal...you just use some double face and cable ties to keep it tight. I mean for someone without PCB experience isn`t easier to just put the two boards together? BTW it helped me a lot the Greek site with all the info and pictures! The only pain was the calibration of the motor
Old 11-29-2008 | 02:28 AM
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From: NYC
^ i have it like that as well, 2 pcbs crunched back there.
Old 11-29-2008 | 02:37 AM
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I have everything ready carpc wiring the whole deal but my trunk needs rewiring for the audio setup so i haven`t started installing them yet. Will need at least a day to make it work!
Only problem i had was the Touchscreen wouldn`t work.(No bigdeal,mostly will be used by the touch pad but any ideas?
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