Help Wiring, Avic N2 install to start next week
#1
Help Wiring, Avic N2 install to start next week
This is a question posed to all the members currently running an aftermarket HU. I am trying my best to leave the wires into the stock HU untouched so i have no chance at voiding my warrenty. So the question i am asking is where are you guys tapping into for your power, both constant and asc. I was just thinking about testing the open fuses and runing from there but i wanted outside opinions on this before i start.
#2
why not use the metra 70-7903 as that will allow you to just plug in and get power and speaker? and if you are installing the avic n2, how are you installing it, as if you replace/customize the original head unit, mazda will know whats going on anyway.
#3
i have allready spoken to my dealers warrenty agent and as long as all factory wires remain untouchedit is fine. all of the speakers are getting amped so there is no need for me to tapp factory speaker wires. The stock HU is merely going to be an auxilery in via an line level converter wich can easily be disconected if i need service so wires look untouched.
#8
ok,now i am confused, you have an aux in on the avic (of course) so you are going to run speaker level out of the factory, into the aux in on the avic, i honestly dont see the reasoning behind this. why not just use the aux in on the avic as your aux in, as you are not gaining any extra from using the fact head unit as an aux in, and you are going to suffer sound quality problems by doing it the way you are suggesting.
#10
I honestly wouldn't bother with the steering wheel controls. I never use them.
As before mentioned, trying to rig that nice $2,000 Headunit to simply run an auxilary input from the stock headunit tapped by LLC to the rear speakers really wastes most of the functionailty of the headunit, sound quailty will be horrible. Think tape recorder.
If all you want is a neato display(which sounds like all you want), just buy a carputer.
I mean, technically what you say will be pretty easy, LLC on rear speakers, then connect to input of new headunit, then new headunit outputs to amp. But seriously, Why????
Just take the 12Vacc+ from the fuses, they are labeled. Or you could always use the ligher socket thats right there in dash.
Better yet, just buy a tablet PC and duct tape it to the dashboard.
As before mentioned, trying to rig that nice $2,000 Headunit to simply run an auxilary input from the stock headunit tapped by LLC to the rear speakers really wastes most of the functionailty of the headunit, sound quailty will be horrible. Think tape recorder.
If all you want is a neato display(which sounds like all you want), just buy a carputer.
I mean, technically what you say will be pretty easy, LLC on rear speakers, then connect to input of new headunit, then new headunit outputs to amp. But seriously, Why????
Just take the 12Vacc+ from the fuses, they are labeled. Or you could always use the ligher socket thats right there in dash.
Better yet, just buy a tablet PC and duct tape it to the dashboard.
Last edited by staticlag; 08-17-2005 at 04:39 PM.
#11
true magelle: I have run ausio systems from scratch in classic cars before so this is no different
staticlag: i want the avic for the navigation and audio proccessing. I have allready thrown components in the front and rear and i have to turn it to full just to hear it on the highway with the windows down. Even then the background noise is horrible, it sounds like im listening to a recod. I understand if you dont agree with keeping the stock heaunit function but when its as easy and putting a line level converter to it, why not.
All the why questions are starting to stray from the origanal question of where you are drawing your power from for your aftermarket HUs. I dont want to sound cocky but i know this is feasable and this is in fact how im running the system. Im just looking for advice where to draw the power that is not noticable tapping into factory wires.
staticlag: i want the avic for the navigation and audio proccessing. I have allready thrown components in the front and rear and i have to turn it to full just to hear it on the highway with the windows down. Even then the background noise is horrible, it sounds like im listening to a recod. I understand if you dont agree with keeping the stock heaunit function but when its as easy and putting a line level converter to it, why not.
All the why questions are starting to stray from the origanal question of where you are drawing your power from for your aftermarket HUs. I dont want to sound cocky but i know this is feasable and this is in fact how im running the system. Im just looking for advice where to draw the power that is not noticable tapping into factory wires.
#13
Originally Posted by snowrydr01
true magelle: I have run ausio systems from scratch in classic cars before so this is no different
Yes, once your heating/ Air conditioning goes out and your fan wont turn off and your LCD blinks random displays, then you will know the differences.
And your dealership will have a great time voiding your warranty and charging you for a whole new headunit and repairs.
And then end up messing up the repairs and tearing up your trim.
Originally Posted by snowrydr01
staticlag: i want the avic for the navigation and audio proccessing. I have allready thrown components in the front and rear and i have to turn it to full just to hear it on the highway with the windows down. Even then the background noise is horrible, it sounds like im listening to a recod. I understand if you dont agree with keeping the stock heaunit function but when its as easy and putting a line level converter to it, why not.
Umm, you just said that you would be using the stock unit for audio processing...
As far as the audio processing is concerned, you are simply going to get some limited digitial crossover adjustments, your much better off just buying a dedicated digital sound processor if you want fancy equalizer functions.
Another thing I like is how you say you have "run ausio systems from scratch in classic cars before so this is no different" and yet you can't even get your plug & play component setup to work correctly on the car. And now you want to mess with the headunit!!!
TrueMagellan had it right all along: " this is going to be a mess...I'm not sure you fully understand what you are getting into
good luck, you'll need it"
You will need it.
#17
uh..what exactly makes you think the Metra 70-7903 is going to work in the 8?
while the Mazda 6 has a similar PCB setup i don't think the wiring harness' are the same.
Metra is not making anything for the RX-8, at least not in the near future...
while the Mazda 6 has a similar PCB setup i don't think the wiring harness' are the same.
Metra is not making anything for the RX-8, at least not in the near future...
#18
Originally Posted by XeRo
uh..what exactly makes you think the Metra 70-7903 is going to work in the 8?
while the Mazda 6 has a similar PCB setup i don't think the wiring harness' are the same.
Metra is not making anything for the RX-8, at least not in the near future...
while the Mazda 6 has a similar PCB setup i don't think the wiring harness' are the same.
Metra is not making anything for the RX-8, at least not in the near future...
and if u have bose forgetabout it
#19
Blose was never even considered when i bought the car. I put my REV 6.5s in the second day i owned the car. And to answer a couple questions the AVIC will be the primary source for DVD, MP3, CD (i dont listen to radio enought to care about that quality). The only reason im keeping the factory HU function is why not, haha. Its an extra $50 to throw on a line level converter and RCAs to run it into the new unit. Also every once in a while my dad will be using this car and he is none too electronically inclined. Not to downplay pops but the navigation through the AVIC def has a learning curve. I can just throw the avic in AUX mode and he can use the stock HU with relative ease.
Lurch: I like the comment about the philly front shop, i lived there for 4 years while i went to Drexel and found it very true. Fortunately for me im getting in from a legitamate Pioneer dealer. If anyone around the philly/centrel jersey area wants audio for super cheap from a legitamate audio store i would suggest the audio store in Freehold Raceway Mall. There are no prices on ANYTHING, you just walk in and start to haggle. Sometimes you can get it cheaper then internet and always at internet prices. Just you get it quicker. I got my Avic N2, 2 sets of REV 6.5 in components, and 2 10inch SPL Competition subs for $2100
Lurch: I like the comment about the philly front shop, i lived there for 4 years while i went to Drexel and found it very true. Fortunately for me im getting in from a legitamate Pioneer dealer. If anyone around the philly/centrel jersey area wants audio for super cheap from a legitamate audio store i would suggest the audio store in Freehold Raceway Mall. There are no prices on ANYTHING, you just walk in and start to haggle. Sometimes you can get it cheaper then internet and always at internet prices. Just you get it quicker. I got my Avic N2, 2 sets of REV 6.5 in components, and 2 10inch SPL Competition subs for $2100
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