I have been patiently waiting for some sort of aftermarket kit to install a carputer - and got tired so I bought a used nav screen hood from an autowrecker. I am very inspired by Rotorgeeks carputer installation:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/rotorgeek-carputer-rearview-cam-78367/

and am planning of doing the same with the MB in the glove box. I was wondering if anyone has looked into or managed to get the OEM 'open' and 'tilt' buttons to work - after replacing the stock screen with a 7" VGA.

It wouldn't be a big deal to open and close the screen by hand - but if the buttons worked all the better! A friend is going to be looking at this for me - so if anyone has any advice - that would be great. I do have the voltage rail diagram from the above thread - any further tips or insight?

 

Nice find... How much did it cost you for the part?

 

Not cheap! Do you think they know we are looking for them? $985

 

Sucks you had to pay that much. Would do it myself too if I could find one.

 

So why would the open and tilt button work after LCD has been replace? I don't think they are wired together to the LCD in anyway.

there is also this site of someone replace the LCD, http://www.geocities.com/mavros_pira...naviscreen.htm, but I can't understand what it says.

 

'course not since it's in Greek

 

The buttons are wired to 2 pc boards inside the existing LCD

 

Provide picture(s) if you can. The geocities site did not provide "before" picture, only after it has been disassembled.

 

$985 Canadian Dollar or US Dollar? That makes a big difference.

 

How big are the two PCB's? I am doubting that it's integrated into the LCD inverter or controller PCB. If they are small enough, why not just reuse them?

 

Here are a couple of pictures: the first shows the entire 'chain' from the external connectors - through 2 PCB's and out to the motor. The second shows the external connectors. I guess 2 ways to go about this, hookup the correct power pins of the external connector and be able to use buttons to control motor - or rewire directly to buttons and motor. I was just wondering which way to go and if anyone has looked at this.

The voltage rail diagram from Rotorgeeks thread means these 2 connectors?? The larger ones is 24 pins in 2 rows and the smaller white one has 6 pins in one row only. Which would be pin one of the 30 pin diagram?

 

The voltage rail diagram that truemagellen posted has "cn901" on it, check if it is the white connector with the flexi cable on it (cable that connect the two PCB).

the motor, it looks like it has your normal power lines, and there is another cable connect to the gears, could be the encoder used to tell the position of the screen?

 

You got it and once the time is off - it is near impossible to retime by hand.

 

Makes sense - but there does seem to be timing marks on the housing and the motor gear - or do you speak from experience?

 

experience

 

rprzybyl have you figured out how to make the buttons work? I am going to tackle this problem soon so pm me if you got it to work

 

Yes Success!!
I gave the whole unit to my genius friend Bob - and he got it going for me.
I just got it back yesterday and installed my Xenarc into it and everything is working for me. He even got the bulbs in the OPEN/TILT buttons to light up!
OPEN opens it up, and TILT moves it slowly back and also closes it. (I think that's how the OEM button setup worked? Not sure if you had to hold them though or just hit them once)
He gave me a nicely documented circuit diagram (it involves a relay and some resistors - way over my head, but he says the simplest method for reversing polarity on the motor with the 2 buttons) - and he did not end up using the existing circuit boards in the OEM unit - which is nice so that you have lots of room to mount the Xenarc. Not much to it really about 7 components or so - and he mounted them all in the smaller PC board metal unit on the back/underside of the original unit. So I just had to hook up to 12 volt source (I used a spare Molex connector from my carputer power supply) but you could use a ACC source on the vehicle too I guess.

I have the diagram at home - and will post it tonight after work (PDT).

Can't wait to install it in the car now. Have developed a nice Roadrunner skin, and am running the new Nano-ITX board which seems to have more than enough power for GPS and music - plus running video or DVD. Still have to finish up the XM and Phoco parts though.

 

pics pics and pics please

 

 

I am glad you were able to get it to work. I look forward to the pics and the diagram. I just hope it is not too much for my electronically deficient brain

 

Here is the circuit diagram. will post some pictures of the nav hood and MB soon.

 

um yea.. my head hurts lol

 

Are you going to mount the Nano-ITX board in the stock nav location (rear center console)? If so, I heard that the heat sink it too tall for 1DIn installations... or at least if you also try to include a CD/DVD drive. How's it been for you?

 

Here are some pics:

First is of the new circuit to connect the hood buttons to the motor. Metal bracket is turned to show content - usually towards the plastic.

Second is the xenarc installed inside the screen housing. Used the 'greek' instriction page - although it is quite self explanatory once you open them both up.
Great thing is that the xenarc remote duplicates the functions of all the front bezel buttons (which get covered up) - and so just mount the IR sensor (which again is happily on a long wire) at the existing remote 'window' on the side of the housing and the xenarc remote works fine.

third is the nav housing open (with the button) and running my carputer

I am happy to give out any tips/instructions either here or privately.

 

Here is a final pic of the Nano MB:

It is next to my 2.5 inch notebook drive - you can really see how small the MB is!

I plan to mount it in the glove box like rotorgeek. I did go with it out to the car and it does fit into the compartment between the rear seats (sitting ontop of a slimline dvd drive) but just for closeness to the screen and having a bit of air around it for cooling - I think the glove box is a better choice.