Metra kit expectations
#55
#56
got it working, apparently the blue/white wire was the key to EVERYTHING, lol... it was the only thing i connected and everything started working
bad news is that i now have a whine coming from the engine.. guess it's time to visit radioshack!
i need to take it apart anyway, since I forgot to connect the steering wheel controls... and the dimmer isn't working :o
bad news is that i now have a whine coming from the engine.. guess it's time to visit radioshack!
i need to take it apart anyway, since I forgot to connect the steering wheel controls... and the dimmer isn't working :o
#57
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Nice I'd either be interested in the end result or would just be curious what parts you will be using for this. I'm always interested in tinkering with stuff so this would certainly be something new and fun to try out.
#58
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Glad you got it figured out. Sorry to hear you have engine whine, but that's what this thread is all about. lol
I picked up the resistors last night so now I'm just hunting down a chunk of PCB and some PCB wire connectors at reasonable prices. I'll solder everything together and test it out on my home receiver. Then I'll make a few more for you guys. Keep in mind these will just be components hand soldered on a PCB. You'll still have to insulate it from touching other electronic pieces/ground. Wrapping the whole thing in electrical tape would probably be fine. Should be much easier this way versus twisting resistor leads together, soldering, then insulating four loose sets of them.
I picked up the resistors last night so now I'm just hunting down a chunk of PCB and some PCB wire connectors at reasonable prices. I'll solder everything together and test it out on my home receiver. Then I'll make a few more for you guys. Keep in mind these will just be components hand soldered on a PCB. You'll still have to insulate it from touching other electronic pieces/ground. Wrapping the whole thing in electrical tape would probably be fine. Should be much easier this way versus twisting resistor leads together, soldering, then insulating four loose sets of them.
Last edited by firebirdude; 07-08-2012 at 07:25 AM.
#59
I had the engine whine problem as well when running RCAs. Tried 2 other grounding points and same problem. Listen for buzzing when you open and close your doors as well.
I just ended up not using the RCAs.
I just ended up not using the RCAs.
#60
well, i got everything working and i'm happy. to "fix" the engine whine, i did the ghetto fix method of wrapping the RCA shields with copper wire and connecting them to the head unit chassis. there's a little bit of a whine now, but i can't hear it over the combination of music/engine, even at low volume
thanks for all the help, firebirdude
thanks for all the help, firebirdude
#62
#63
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**** no. Had to fight with the damn Chinese parts suppliers I ordered from. They say they shipped my parts, but couldn't (or wouldn't) provide any proof. I finally get them weeks later and the PCB is the wrong one. Speaker wire connectors wouldn't fit onto it. Sat on my desk for a few days while I decided what to do.... then I just gave up. I was just going to do it as a favor to everyone, but it turned into a huge waste of my time.
#65
Try installing a ground loop isolator (such as a PAC SNI-1, GS Audio GL301, Scosche ES034, Boss B25N or similar), between the head unit and the vehicle harness..
Did you remember to remove the 3 transport screws from the top of the unit before installing the deck?
I will assume that you mean that the HVAC system will only provide heat regardless of the position of the temperature dial. This will happen if you cross-connected the fan and temp cables, if the HVAC control panel has bad solder joints, or if you got a defective Metra controller. If you mis-connected the cables you can fry the controller. If the cables are connected properly, then you should try the heater fix DIY ( https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...ontrol-158200/ ). If that still does not work, then you probably have a DOA/failed controller (contact the place of purchase for a warranty replacement).
If you meant that the fan won't stop running (fan control dial not functioning), you need to check the connector to the fan contol on the back of the HVAC panel.
Did you remember to remove the 3 transport screws from the top of the unit before installing the deck?
I will assume that you mean that the HVAC system will only provide heat regardless of the position of the temperature dial. This will happen if you cross-connected the fan and temp cables, if the HVAC control panel has bad solder joints, or if you got a defective Metra controller. If you mis-connected the cables you can fry the controller. If the cables are connected properly, then you should try the heater fix DIY ( https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...ontrol-158200/ ). If that still does not work, then you probably have a DOA/failed controller (contact the place of purchase for a warranty replacement).
If you meant that the fan won't stop running (fan control dial not functioning), you need to check the connector to the fan contol on the back of the HVAC panel.
Last edited by cybrmage; 02-23-2013 at 04:37 AM.
#66
I have attached a drawing of a single channel pad, using 3 1/4W resistors. You can probably get them at Radio Shack. If not, DigiKey.com.
If you have the skills to solder and then insulate the connections, this method is virtually free, and it will reduce your volume level without introducing noise.
If the result is still too loud (probably won't be), you can decrease the value of the 18 ohm shunt resistor. Good luck.
If you have the skills to solder and then insulate the connections, this method is virtually free, and it will reduce your volume level without introducing noise.
If the result is still too loud (probably won't be), you can decrease the value of the 18 ohm shunt resistor. Good luck.
Radio Shack only has 68 ohm and a 15 ohm locally.
#68
Just a PSA, as I installed my Metra Kit today. I was able to keep steering button functionality by simply connecting the green/white connector to the Steering Wheel Key (+) wire on my new head unit harness. Just had to map the buttons on the steering wheel to what I wanted in the new head unit's settings.
I think modern head units can interpret the steering wheel button presses just fine. All I need to finish the install is an antenna extension as mine couldn't reach into the new head unit.
I think modern head units can interpret the steering wheel button presses just fine. All I need to finish the install is an antenna extension as mine couldn't reach into the new head unit.
#69
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Just a PSA, as I installed my Metra Kit today. I was able to keep steering button functionality by simply connecting the green/white connector to the Steering Wheel Key (+) wire on my new head unit harness. Just had to map the buttons on the steering wheel to what I wanted in the new head unit's settings.
I think modern head units can interpret the steering wheel button presses just fine. All I need to finish the install is an antenna extension as mine couldn't reach into the new head unit.
I think modern head units can interpret the steering wheel button presses just fine. All I need to finish the install is an antenna extension as mine couldn't reach into the new head unit.
SWC depends on the brand head unit. The no name Android based units seem to have this built in. Also Sony head units. To my knowledge, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC, and Alpine do not.
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