My Audio Build Attempt 2
#27
Ok, across the power connections of the amp you aren't going to get a useful resistance reading. You would need to check between your ground wire and your batt negative, and your power wire and your batt positive. Neither are particularly easy to do, as you need to have one probe in the trunk and one under the hood...
A simpler test might be to test the power at the input terminals of the amp to see what you're getting for a voltage. If it's above 12v and fairly steady (while the car's running,) you're probably good. If it's lower, or jumping around a lot, you may have an issue. If you have any discs with test tracks on them (constant bass tone,) it'll make getting a consistent result easier.
A simpler test might be to test the power at the input terminals of the amp to see what you're getting for a voltage. If it's above 12v and fairly steady (while the car's running,) you're probably good. If it's lower, or jumping around a lot, you may have an issue. If you have any discs with test tracks on them (constant bass tone,) it'll make getting a consistent result easier.
#28
I used left over remote wire to test ground resistances in my install. One end got alligator clipped to the the disconnected negative battery terminal. the other end connected to my multimeter probe. Then I just touched the other probe to my ground wire in the trunk. You should have well under an ohms resistance if your ground is good. Battery has to be disconnected for this test, any live circuits like the trunk light will throw the reading off.
A good thing to do when using long test wires like this is to measure the resistance of the probes and the wire first, so you can subtract that resistance from what the meter reads when you test the ground. This way you aren't throwing your measurements off with the resistance of the probes.
A good thing to do when using long test wires like this is to measure the resistance of the probes and the wire first, so you can subtract that resistance from what the meter reads when you test the ground. This way you aren't throwing your measurements off with the resistance of the probes.
#29
I replaced the fuse even tho it didnt blow, and the crappy crunch amp is working right as rain. I am doing a custom install for the amp, so I may just for mushrooms and giggles hook up the kenwood and see if itll work. if not, i know its blown. I got all the materials I think to relocate the battery, so that is also on the to do list.
#31
OOO Kaaayy. Today was a biiig step in the right direction. Taking that it was a snowday for my college, I spent the entire day in my garage, working on the 8. My first step, was to fix the Kenwood amp, the much better amp then the Crunch I had in there before. I did fix it by soldering in a wire to jump a popped circuit, and shes breathin fire now. (I did accidently short a circuit while tuning and popped the little 40amp fuse, so I have to pick one up in the am, oh well.)
Step two, was relocate the battery. I got it out of the engine bay, freed up some space under the hood (i hate when an engine bay is as crowded as ours is). Also slightly better for weight distribution Made a custom wood tray for the battery, and mounted it to the floor using industrial strength velcro. Things going...NOWHERE.
Next, I installed the amp, into its permanent home, and made a cover, much like the ones you guys bought for $60 but I paid $5 for mine, and i made a little glass see through for the lights on the amp. And I hooked up my blue neon so I have some kind of lighting in the back there. In all, I spent about 6 hours working on the 8 today, and I DO have pics to show the finished product.
Step two, was relocate the battery. I got it out of the engine bay, freed up some space under the hood (i hate when an engine bay is as crowded as ours is). Also slightly better for weight distribution Made a custom wood tray for the battery, and mounted it to the floor using industrial strength velcro. Things going...NOWHERE.
Next, I installed the amp, into its permanent home, and made a cover, much like the ones you guys bought for $60 but I paid $5 for mine, and i made a little glass see through for the lights on the amp. And I hooked up my blue neon so I have some kind of lighting in the back there. In all, I spent about 6 hours working on the 8 today, and I DO have pics to show the finished product.
#33
Check the pics in the last post I did. Apart from cleaning off the glass, shes all done. Everything buttoned up real nice, subs are hitting really hard. Although at full blast the battery is struggling to keep up at idle. Otherwise, it came out good. I am pleased.
#34
What's underneath the plexi? If it's your amp, I can't see it. And why not carpet the edges of the wood square cut out for the plexi? Vice being able to see the unfinished wood edges. I realize the way your sub box sits, it would be tough to hide the sub wires.... but what about those wire to the left of the box? Run them under the carpet. Or lengthen them and run then around and behind the wheel well carpet. And why not tighten up the power wires on the battery. Take out all the slack and have them all going straight towards the rear of the battery. Short. Uniform.
You're not done.
You're not done.
Last edited by firebirdude; 01-28-2009 at 10:34 PM.
#35
haha yeah I know some of that, and you are right it isnt totally done. yes, thats the amps location under the plexi. And the reason the wood isnt carpeted, is because the plexi is screwed to the top so i have a smooth, surface on top. so it came down to either hide the screws, or the wood. I can always go back and paint the wood black so you cant really notice it. Most of the wires are hidable, and I probably will. But the Kenwood failed once again, so the Crunch is in there now. I havent decided if I really really wanna change it up right now, theres other things I would like to put that kind of money towards at the moment. Firebird, you do notice the details, and I applaud that. Most of thsoe wires have been tightened up for a more permenant solution.
#36
#37
Yeah, most of which I also noted, that picture was taken during the install process, test fitting stage. Diff amp in there now, as opposed to then. And my one big regret with that box is that the cups are installed in the back, and not the side. If it had been done on the side, the install would be thousands of times cleaner. Seeing as whoever made the box in the first place did a terrible job making it in the first place (the carpeting in one of the corners is coming off, I may just make a new box at some point when I get the urge. For now though, I am done fiddling with it.
#39
When you install a new amp you have to break it in before using its full power, dont turn the power all the way up for like a few days or so, then you should be good to use it. It wont blow it all the time to not do this but it can cause your amp to blow.
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