nav screen input
#1
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: in virgina right now want to go back to texas
nav screen input
any one know what the input for the nav screen
i want to make it in to a carputer or dvd player
i want to make it in to a carputer or dvd player
Last edited by kevk; 12-01-2009 at 04:03 PM.
#5
The stock nav screen is an RGB signal with sync on green I think? It runs at some crazy resolution/refresh rate though and is not really useable for anything but the oem nav.
If you really need to use the screen you'll have to buy the nav electronics switcher or something similar, but it's cheaper to replace it with a 7" touchscreen like a lilliput or xenarc plus you get touchscreen then.
Search for posts by antichristpm if you really want to know the complexity of making the screen work.
If you really need to use the screen you'll have to buy the nav electronics switcher or something similar, but it's cheaper to replace it with a 7" touchscreen like a lilliput or xenarc plus you get touchscreen then.
Search for posts by antichristpm if you really want to know the complexity of making the screen work.
#6
I was just about to post a new thread but I can advance some information here:
I´m also member of a spanish rx8 club, and we´ve found a simple solution to use stock RX8 screen with any VGA for 80 USD + shipping, which is a great price much cheaper than a new screen, and easier to install.
You can see the result (prototype) here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZaMqPT8AnE
There you can see my RX8 working with my notebook.
We have set up a "virtual worldwide purchasing group" with people from other forums in several countries. This way we have negotiated with the australian manufacturer of the interface, and since yesterday we have an agreement with a personalised voucher system. This allows people from diferent countries to buy individually or by groups at the agreed price of 80 USD + shipping.
You can see more information in the thread of the spanish forum (translated from spanish to english by google): http://translate.google.es/translate...hl=es&ie=UTF-8
If you are interested, please let me know.
We are also working in a system to switch between navigator or CarPC screen.
#8
Link not working.
I'm sure that I've seen an installation guide somewhere.
I'm retracing my steps backwards now that I've got all parts for my CarPC.
Can't find the installation Guide for this converter... I remember that I should put some resistors or something somewhere, but can't remember what more to do or which resistors...
Do you have the guide saved somewhere?
I'm retracing my steps backwards now that I've got all parts for my CarPC.
Can't find the installation Guide for this converter... I remember that I should put some resistors or something somewhere, but can't remember what more to do or which resistors...
Do you have the guide saved somewhere?
#9
The forum that has my guide has now restricted access to registered people. All I can do is copy the original post from there to here. It´s in Spanish, sorry. You can translate it using Google:
Os comento cómo he conectado las resistencias para el adaptador de video, sin circuito impreso y utilizando sólo unas tijeras.
Bueno, en realidad he asegurado las conexiones con soldadura, aunque creo que no es imprescindible.
Material necesario:
- 3 resistencias de 75 ohm, de las más pequeñas que podáis encontrar. Intentaré que el fabricante del adaptador añada por lo menos las resistencias sin coste.
- unas tijeras o cortalambres.
- unos 15 cm de funda termoretráctil. Podeis ver aquí cómo se usa y comprarla en tiendas de material eléctrico, grandes superficies de bricolage o aquí
Este es el esquema de lo que vamos a montar:
Cada resistencia tiene que conectar el cable negro (GND o masa) y uno de los cables rojo, verde y azul.
La idea es, partiendo del inicio del cable negro, ir haciendo conexiones con cada uno de los tres cables R,G y B.
Empezamos con el cable negro, cerca del conector. Con las tijeras cortamos con cuidado sólo la protección de plástico (no el hilo de cobre). Una vez cortado se puede desplazar la funda de plástico unos 5 mm dejando el hilo de cobre al descubierto.
Doblamos la patilla de la resistencia en forma de gancho y enrollamos el cable descubierto en é:
La unión se puede asegurar con un punto de soldadura (opcional).
Repetimos lo mismo con uno de los cables, por ejemplo el azul. Importante: no lo hacemos a la misma altura que el negro, sino desplazado en una medida igual al tamaño de la resistencia, de forma que luego podrán quedar ambos cables tocándose:
Ahora cortamos un trozo de funda termoretráctil lo suficientemente largo como para cubrir los dos empalmes y un poco más. Metemos los DOS cables por la funda termoretráctil, y cubrimos los dos empalmes y la resistencia.
Con un encendedor le aplicamos calor moviéndolo ligeramente hasta que la funda se contrae y "agarra" todo el invento:
Un poco más adelante del cable negro, repetimos todo el proceso con otro de los cables, por ejemplo el rojo. I finalmente volvemos a repetirlo con el que queda, en este caso el verde.
Con trocitos de funda o con bridas mantenemos todos los cables juntos.
Ya hemos hecho el "circuito"
Hope this helps
Os comento cómo he conectado las resistencias para el adaptador de video, sin circuito impreso y utilizando sólo unas tijeras.
Bueno, en realidad he asegurado las conexiones con soldadura, aunque creo que no es imprescindible.
Material necesario:
- 3 resistencias de 75 ohm, de las más pequeñas que podáis encontrar. Intentaré que el fabricante del adaptador añada por lo menos las resistencias sin coste.
- unas tijeras o cortalambres.
- unos 15 cm de funda termoretráctil. Podeis ver aquí cómo se usa y comprarla en tiendas de material eléctrico, grandes superficies de bricolage o aquí
Este es el esquema de lo que vamos a montar:
Cada resistencia tiene que conectar el cable negro (GND o masa) y uno de los cables rojo, verde y azul.
La idea es, partiendo del inicio del cable negro, ir haciendo conexiones con cada uno de los tres cables R,G y B.
Empezamos con el cable negro, cerca del conector. Con las tijeras cortamos con cuidado sólo la protección de plástico (no el hilo de cobre). Una vez cortado se puede desplazar la funda de plástico unos 5 mm dejando el hilo de cobre al descubierto.
Doblamos la patilla de la resistencia en forma de gancho y enrollamos el cable descubierto en é:
La unión se puede asegurar con un punto de soldadura (opcional).
Repetimos lo mismo con uno de los cables, por ejemplo el azul. Importante: no lo hacemos a la misma altura que el negro, sino desplazado en una medida igual al tamaño de la resistencia, de forma que luego podrán quedar ambos cables tocándose:
Ahora cortamos un trozo de funda termoretráctil lo suficientemente largo como para cubrir los dos empalmes y un poco más. Metemos los DOS cables por la funda termoretráctil, y cubrimos los dos empalmes y la resistencia.
Con un encendedor le aplicamos calor moviéndolo ligeramente hasta que la funda se contrae y "agarra" todo el invento:
Un poco más adelante del cable negro, repetimos todo el proceso con otro de los cables, por ejemplo el rojo. I finalmente volvemos a repetirlo con el que queda, en este caso el verde.
Con trocitos de funda o con bridas mantenemos todos los cables juntos.
Ya hemos hecho el "circuito"
Hope this helps
#10
Aquí está la primera parte del brico para usar la pantalla de serie del navegador como pantalla del CarPC. He procurado que sea muy gráfico y que se entienda bien. Cualquier duda, ya sabeis.
Es recomendable tenerlo a mano al intervenir en el coche, para usarlo de guía.
Material necesario: un RX8 , un destornillador phillips (de cruz) y unos alicates o unas tijeras.
No es necesario quitar sientos ni desconectar la batería. Quitar el contacto (no se puede hacer oyendo la radio del coche).
Primero una visión de conjunto y unos esquemas de referencia:
Y ahora ya empezamos paso a paso: Se trata de desmontar la consola central, llegar al navegador y extraerlo para llegar a los cables de señal.
Los conectores tienen una pestaña en un lateral que hay que apretar con el dedo al tiempo que tiramos. Sólo tirando no salen. Apretar la pestaña y manteniendola apretada tirar en zig-zag y salen sin dificultad.
La consola ya está suelta. Tirar de ella hacia arriba desde la parte de atrás para levantarla un poco. Por la parte de atrás de la toma de corriente (encendedor) hay que desconectar el conector si queremos sacar completamente la consola. Sino se puede poner ladeada en diagonal de atrás adelante entre los asientos.
Ahora ya vemos el navegador. Para liberarlo hay que soltar 6 tornillos. Cuidado que no se caigan hacia la parte inferior del coche:
Ya podemos sacar el navegador de su alojamiento. No sale mucho porque los cables lo sujetan por detrás. Ahora hay que liberar la manguera de cables de un plástico que lo sujeta con cinta:
Desconectar el conector en cuestión. Recordar que hay una pestaña que hay que apretar antes de tirar.
Y ya sólo queda cortar los cables R (Red:rojo) ,G (Green:verde),B (blue:azul), sincros (blanco)y masa (amarillo):
Bien, ya hemos roto el RX8, que era el objetivo de este brico Algunos seguro que ya pueden acabar sólos. Pero haré una segunda parte con lo de las resistencias y los empalmes.
Por cierto, para volver a montar poner los tornillos en el orden inverso a cómo los quitamos y donde tiramos ahora entra a presión (hace "clack")
Es recomendable tenerlo a mano al intervenir en el coche, para usarlo de guía.
Material necesario: un RX8 , un destornillador phillips (de cruz) y unos alicates o unas tijeras.
No es necesario quitar sientos ni desconectar la batería. Quitar el contacto (no se puede hacer oyendo la radio del coche).
Primero una visión de conjunto y unos esquemas de referencia:
Y ahora ya empezamos paso a paso: Se trata de desmontar la consola central, llegar al navegador y extraerlo para llegar a los cables de señal.
Los conectores tienen una pestaña en un lateral que hay que apretar con el dedo al tiempo que tiramos. Sólo tirando no salen. Apretar la pestaña y manteniendola apretada tirar en zig-zag y salen sin dificultad.
La consola ya está suelta. Tirar de ella hacia arriba desde la parte de atrás para levantarla un poco. Por la parte de atrás de la toma de corriente (encendedor) hay que desconectar el conector si queremos sacar completamente la consola. Sino se puede poner ladeada en diagonal de atrás adelante entre los asientos.
Ahora ya vemos el navegador. Para liberarlo hay que soltar 6 tornillos. Cuidado que no se caigan hacia la parte inferior del coche:
Ya podemos sacar el navegador de su alojamiento. No sale mucho porque los cables lo sujetan por detrás. Ahora hay que liberar la manguera de cables de un plástico que lo sujeta con cinta:
Desconectar el conector en cuestión. Recordar que hay una pestaña que hay que apretar antes de tirar.
Y ya sólo queda cortar los cables R (Red:rojo) ,G (Green:verde),B (blue:azul), sincros (blanco)y masa (amarillo):
Bien, ya hemos roto el RX8, que era el objetivo de este brico Algunos seguro que ya pueden acabar sólos. Pero haré una segunda parte con lo de las resistencias y los empalmes.
Por cierto, para volver a montar poner los tornillos en el orden inverso a cómo los quitamos y donde tiramos ahora entra a presión (hace "clack")
#11
Thanks for posting them again.
It's probably because I'm stupid or so but I can't really get the two posts to hang together.
Let's say I've done the 'circuit cable' = put the 3x 75 ohm resistors between black->green,red,blue on the cable that came with the adapter, and also that I've cut the correct cables to the DVD-player in the back of the car...
Am I supposed to cut off one of the sides of the 'circuit cable' (the one that doesn't go to the adaptor) and fix each cable-color with the cut cable that previous was put into the DVD/GPS unit?
Does the GPS-unit use lots of power so I should disconnect it from the car entirely, since having it there without a screen does not seem 100% optimal, or is it needed anyways for something?
Is there any way that I can switch the screen between my GPS/computer if needed, instead of cutting the cables?
Or maybe, did I not understand any of this?
It's probably because I'm stupid or so but I can't really get the two posts to hang together.
Let's say I've done the 'circuit cable' = put the 3x 75 ohm resistors between black->green,red,blue on the cable that came with the adapter, and also that I've cut the correct cables to the DVD-player in the back of the car...
Am I supposed to cut off one of the sides of the 'circuit cable' (the one that doesn't go to the adaptor) and fix each cable-color with the cut cable that previous was put into the DVD/GPS unit?
Does the GPS-unit use lots of power so I should disconnect it from the car entirely, since having it there without a screen does not seem 100% optimal, or is it needed anyways for something?
Is there any way that I can switch the screen between my GPS/computer if needed, instead of cutting the cables?
Or maybe, did I not understand any of this?
Last edited by xebb; 04-08-2010 at 08:17 AM. Reason: Type-O's
#13
I used euroconnectors to test it. For now I have to disconned one connector and connect the other one to switch between navi unit and PC.
I planned to do this by a switch but until now I have PC connected all the time (PC has his own navigator sofware, with radars, POIs, etc...)
#14
Thanks a lot for being so helpful and friendly
I have now put the PC in the car (I'll upload pictures later), connected it to the power converter (M1-ATX) and to the radio (Car2PC-MAZ, seems to be working since I could hear start-up sound) and I've tried to connect it to the VGA adapter also.
I connected the three RGB:s, and Black from Adapter to White on the cable from the screen.
The yellow cable from the screen I did nothing with. I disconnected and removed the DVD-unit, so I figured cutting yellow would be unnecessary - if yellow isn't the cable that's the syncro-cable (?).
I've put the VGA adaptor switch 1 to OFF so RGA is enabled, and tried different modes for NTSC/NTSC-EIAJ/PAL-M/PAL-N,PAL-B,D,G,HI/PAL-combination-N. Still I can't get the screen to stop the 'flipping'...
I can 'just' see that the PC is booted up but the screen is doing that "70'-80's cool screen jumping/flipping" so it is almost impossible to see anything at all.
You got any suggestions for what I've done wrong, or at least haven't done right?
What screen resolution can I use?
--- Edit ---
I just took my laptop down to the car and I couldn't get anything out on the screen via that one.
Didn't matter that I tried most resolutions / color depths / frequencies that I could get from Win7. It did find a monitor though.
I have now put the PC in the car (I'll upload pictures later), connected it to the power converter (M1-ATX) and to the radio (Car2PC-MAZ, seems to be working since I could hear start-up sound) and I've tried to connect it to the VGA adapter also.
I connected the three RGB:s, and Black from Adapter to White on the cable from the screen.
The yellow cable from the screen I did nothing with. I disconnected and removed the DVD-unit, so I figured cutting yellow would be unnecessary - if yellow isn't the cable that's the syncro-cable (?).
I've put the VGA adaptor switch 1 to OFF so RGA is enabled, and tried different modes for NTSC/NTSC-EIAJ/PAL-M/PAL-N,PAL-B,D,G,HI/PAL-combination-N. Still I can't get the screen to stop the 'flipping'...
I can 'just' see that the PC is booted up but the screen is doing that "70'-80's cool screen jumping/flipping" so it is almost impossible to see anything at all.
You got any suggestions for what I've done wrong, or at least haven't done right?
What screen resolution can I use?
--- Edit ---
I just took my laptop down to the car and I couldn't get anything out on the screen via that one.
Didn't matter that I tried most resolutions / color depths / frequencies that I could get from Win7. It did find a monitor though.
Last edited by xebb; 04-12-2010 at 10:46 AM.
#16
Thanks a lot for being so helpful and friendly
I have now put the PC in the car (I'll upload pictures later), connected it to the power converter (M1-ATX) and to the radio (Car2PC-MAZ, seems to be working since I could hear start-up sound) and I've tried to connect it to the VGA adapter also.
I connected the three RGB:s, and Black from Adapter to White on the cable from the screen.
The yellow cable from the screen I did nothing with. I disconnected and removed the DVD-unit, so I figured cutting yellow would be unnecessary - if yellow isn't the cable that's the syncro-cable (?).
I've put the VGA adaptor switch 1 to OFF so RGA is enabled, and tried different modes for NTSC/NTSC-EIAJ/PAL-M/PAL-N,PAL-B,D,G,HI/PAL-combination-N. Still I can't get the screen to stop the 'flipping'...
I can 'just' see that the PC is booted up but the screen is doing that "70'-80's cool screen jumping/flipping" so it is almost impossible to see anything at all.
You got any suggestions for what I've done wrong, or at least haven't done right?
What screen resolution can I use?
--- Edit ---
I just took my laptop down to the car and I couldn't get anything out on the screen via that one.
Didn't matter that I tried most resolutions / color depths / frequencies that I could get from Win7. It did find a monitor though.
I have now put the PC in the car (I'll upload pictures later), connected it to the power converter (M1-ATX) and to the radio (Car2PC-MAZ, seems to be working since I could hear start-up sound) and I've tried to connect it to the VGA adapter also.
I connected the three RGB:s, and Black from Adapter to White on the cable from the screen.
The yellow cable from the screen I did nothing with. I disconnected and removed the DVD-unit, so I figured cutting yellow would be unnecessary - if yellow isn't the cable that's the syncro-cable (?).
I've put the VGA adaptor switch 1 to OFF so RGA is enabled, and tried different modes for NTSC/NTSC-EIAJ/PAL-M/PAL-N,PAL-B,D,G,HI/PAL-combination-N. Still I can't get the screen to stop the 'flipping'...
I can 'just' see that the PC is booted up but the screen is doing that "70'-80's cool screen jumping/flipping" so it is almost impossible to see anything at all.
You got any suggestions for what I've done wrong, or at least haven't done right?
What screen resolution can I use?
--- Edit ---
I just took my laptop down to the car and I couldn't get anything out on the screen via that one.
Didn't matter that I tried most resolutions / color depths / frequencies that I could get from Win7. It did find a monitor though.
The yellow cable from screen you are not using is GND. You have to use it. White cable from screen is Synchros.
Furthermore you need to connect 3 resistors 75 ohm between R and GND, G and GND, B and GND to match impedances (see above).
I use 800 x 600 resolution. You can go up to 1024 x 768 but 800 x 600 work fine for me (pictures of the screen above are at that resolution). Tomorrow I´ll check switchs positions on my adapter.
I use Sygic Drive as GPS software.
Hope this helps. Please post some pictures of the results.
#18
#19
http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1151625270
Thanks alot.
Last edited by mmctsai; 04-26-2010 at 01:26 AM.
#20
can you please advise what this standard VGA input is? does that mean I do not need to buy below AV switcher? but just 3x 75 ohm resistors and a VGA input will do?
http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1151625270
Thanks alot.
http://www.mazdaparts.com/ProductDet...000-1151625270
Thanks alot.
I use it daily since 6 months and it works like a charm (you can see pictures above in this treath).
#21
Yes, all you need is the adapter and the 3 resistors. The adapter is powered with +5 volts DC (I feed it from my PC). Then you can connect any computer standard VGA cable to the VGA conector in the adapter, and you will see the image in the stock RX-8 screen.
I use it daily since 6 months and it works like a charm (you can see pictures above in this treath).
I use it daily since 6 months and it works like a charm (you can see pictures above in this treath).
#22
yes, the av switcher MAY work if you wire the hell out of it, which i don't know or think you are capable of anyway, but for the same money or less you can get a new monitor that will be plug and play for all your inputs, with touch screen to boot, and it's going to have vga input too if you ever want to go that route.
if you don't have stock nav, there is literally NO REASON to not get a new monitor. you won't save money. you won't save time. give it up man
#23
dude you need to just listen to what everyones telling you instead of asking the same question over and over again. this vga thing is NOT going to work for a dvd player. period. it's very clear you don't want a carpc, you only want a dvd player. go buy a different monitor and stop trying to get RCA video in a monitor with goofy specs that you don't even have the wiring for.
yes, the av switcher MAY work if you wire the hell out of it, which i don't know or think you are capable of anyway, but for the same money or less you can get a new monitor that will be plug and play for all your inputs, with touch screen to boot, and it's going to have vga input too if you ever want to go that route.
if you don't have stock nav, there is literally NO REASON to not get a new monitor. you won't save money. you won't save time. give it up man
yes, the av switcher MAY work if you wire the hell out of it, which i don't know or think you are capable of anyway, but for the same money or less you can get a new monitor that will be plug and play for all your inputs, with touch screen to boot, and it's going to have vga input too if you ever want to go that route.
if you don't have stock nav, there is literally NO REASON to not get a new monitor. you won't save money. you won't save time. give it up man
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