OEM Navigation Hood Retrofit for Carputer Application
09-29-2008 | 05:43 PM
#51
Dude, that is a serious amount of info. I wish I had started my project after you posted all of this stuff. This is what makes this forum so great.
I'm just going to stick to my arduino solution for now.
Congrats!
How is everybody else doing with their stuff?
I'm just going to stick to my arduino solution for now.
Congrats!
How is everybody else doing with their stuff?
09-30-2008 | 01:51 AM
#52
Well thank you! I did end up getting the circuit boards and soldered one up. It works as it should! So I'm relieved that I don't have to make up new ones. I think the project is complete! Here are blurry pictures of the front and back of the completed board, next to a blank one, they way they come. I'll post back when I find out if/how many I'll have left.
I took a small break from the actual computer itself after tagging about 5000 mp3s and playing alot with software, but am ready to get back in it.
How is the arduino coming?
I took a small break from the actual computer itself after tagging about 5000 mp3s and playing alot with software, but am ready to get back in it.
How is the arduino coming?
10-20-2008 | 09:38 PM
#55
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Great project! I'm thinking of doing this in my 8 in the future, and it's nice to see that a lot of the work has already been done for me.
Also, I couldn't help but notice Anberlin on the music screen. Excellent choice.
Also, I couldn't help but notice Anberlin on the music screen. Excellent choice.
10-30-2009 | 09:48 AM
#57
Sleeps with one eye open!
Joined: Oct 2006
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I've been scouring...in the past, I found a post by a member that used jumpers form the original nav board to his Lilliput screen - to retain stock functionality....anyone know what/who i'm talking about?
10-30-2009 | 09:55 AM
#58
you mean for auto on/off?
I just used the firmware menu in the lilliput and it automatically goes on and off if there is a vga signal or not.
or if not, what stock function are you trying to retain?
I just used the firmware menu in the lilliput and it automatically goes on and off if there is a vga signal or not.
or if not, what stock function are you trying to retain?
10-30-2009 | 09:57 AM
#59
Sleeps with one eye open!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 367
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When you close the hood the screen turns off...right now it stays on constantly and when the hood is closed you see the light (bright as hell)
10-30-2009 | 10:10 AM
#62
10-30-2009 | 10:12 AM
#63
Sleeps with one eye open!
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Posts: 367
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10-26-2010 | 04:52 AM
#65
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Hi guys,
I am having a small issue with the wiring of the nav at the moment. since i see many layouts of the wiring here i hope you could be of help.
I have a OEM NAV, and already replaced every component and it is working fine.
However i wanted to remove the dvd player of the original nav. when i do this the sound in my left front speaker vanishes. is there any way i can remove the nav dvd player and retain my sound in this speaker?
Cheers
I am having a small issue with the wiring of the nav at the moment. since i see many layouts of the wiring here i hope you could be of help.
I have a OEM NAV, and already replaced every component and it is working fine.
However i wanted to remove the dvd player of the original nav. when i do this the sound in my left front speaker vanishes. is there any way i can remove the nav dvd player and retain my sound in this speaker?
Cheers
07-15-2011 | 06:53 PM
#66
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5
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From: Balearic Islands, Spain.
Hi guys,
I am having a small issue with the wiring of the nav at the moment. since i see many layouts of the wiring here i hope you could be of help.
I have a OEM NAV, and already replaced every component and it is working fine.
However i wanted to remove the dvd player of the original nav. when i do this the sound in my left front speaker vanishes. is there any way i can remove the nav dvd player and retain my sound in this speaker?
Cheers
I am having a small issue with the wiring of the nav at the moment. since i see many layouts of the wiring here i hope you could be of help.
I have a OEM NAV, and already replaced every component and it is working fine.
However i wanted to remove the dvd player of the original nav. when i do this the sound in my left front speaker vanishes. is there any way i can remove the nav dvd player and retain my sound in this speaker?
Cheers
Regards,
Mike.
08-06-2011 | 04:10 AM
#67
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
3usd pcb's
So I finally tested the circuit in my car and got it all working. I laid out a circuit board and just got done ordering them through expresspcb.com
SO - some attachments:
RX-8 Schematic.jpg - click on it to see the complexity (or lack thereof ) of the circuit
RX-8 PCB.jpg - This is what the circuit board looks like in the CAD software
RX-8 Screen.zip - In here are all of the files needed to get your own boards, parts, and build the circuit yourself:
- RX-8 Screen.hex - this is my compiled code, program the PIC16F883 with this
- Bill of Materials.xls - Excel spreadsheet with list of parts, Digi-Key part numbers, and cost
- RX-8 Screen.sch - Actual schematic file, open this in ExpressSCH from www.expresspcb.com
- RX-8 Screen.pcb - Actual PCB file, open this in ExpressPCB from www.expresspcb.com
Source Code.zip - My source code for the project, open in MPLAB from www.microchip.com
From the Bill of Materials, the parts themselves are under $20 without connectors. For a female DB9 connector, just cut the end off a serial cable. The male DA15 is a little bit more tricky. An old joystick or computer game controller (pre-USB) should have one of these. Connector part #'s are also included in case you can't find a suitable source.
It should be noted that PCB boards are ordered through the ExpressPCB software itself. Their MiniBoard service is the cheapest I could find and is what I had in mind when I made the pcb. Since the boards have to be 3.8" by 2.5" for this, I squeezed the parts together and fit two controllers on one board (cut down the line in the middle) You also have to order three boards for the service, giving me 6 controllers. I MAY have some extras after all is said and done, but I'll want to test it and make sure they came out okay. I won't have extra components or the patience to solder up 6 boards though
Lastly, just keep in mind this was designed for my Lilliput 629. It should work with other screens, but it's up to you to make sure the power button on the screen works the same. When you press the power button, both sides of the push button must measure 0v with respect to ground. I don't want anyone ruining their expensive LCD because of this.
Hopefully this helps someone out there!
SO - some attachments:
RX-8 Schematic.jpg - click on it to see the complexity (or lack thereof
) of the circuitRX-8 PCB.jpg - This is what the circuit board looks like in the CAD software
RX-8 Screen.zip - In here are all of the files needed to get your own boards, parts, and build the circuit yourself:
- RX-8 Screen.hex - this is my compiled code, program the PIC16F883 with this
- Bill of Materials.xls - Excel spreadsheet with list of parts, Digi-Key part numbers, and cost
- RX-8 Screen.sch - Actual schematic file, open this in ExpressSCH from www.expresspcb.com
- RX-8 Screen.pcb - Actual PCB file, open this in ExpressPCB from www.expresspcb.com
Source Code.zip - My source code for the project, open in MPLAB from www.microchip.com
From the Bill of Materials, the parts themselves are under $20 without connectors. For a female DB9 connector, just cut the end off a serial cable. The male DA15 is a little bit more tricky. An old joystick or computer game controller (pre-USB) should have one of these. Connector part #'s are also included in case you can't find a suitable source.
It should be noted that PCB boards are ordered through the ExpressPCB software itself. Their MiniBoard service is the cheapest I could find and is what I had in mind when I made the pcb. Since the boards have to be 3.8" by 2.5" for this, I squeezed the parts together and fit two controllers on one board (cut down the line in the middle) You also have to order three boards for the service, giving me 6 controllers. I MAY have some extras after all is said and done, but I'll want to test it and make sure they came out okay. I won't have extra components or the patience to solder up 6 boards though
Lastly, just keep in mind this was designed for my Lilliput 629. It should work with other screens, but it's up to you to make sure the power button on the screen works the same. When you press the power button, both sides of the push button must measure 0v with respect to ground. I don't want anyone ruining their expensive LCD because of this.
Hopefully this helps someone out there!
I ended up with 20
So giving them away for 3usd each(Postage is yours)
No desrespect to your idea just want to get rid of them and help someone else
Only pm's please
3 gone to Mike RR
Last edited by paris514; 08-16-2011 at 10:23 AM. Reason: update
01-19-2012 | 01:21 PM
#68
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Joined: Jan 2012
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Sorry to resurect an old thread, thought it would be easier than start a new one with lots of links. I have just purchased a used rx8 in the uk and am planning on integrating an Android tablet instead of a fully blown car pc and I was planning on integrating the tablet into the nav screen. However, I have two slight problems, firstly I would really like to retain the open/close/tilt factor to give it that OEM look and secondly I have no reference available to me for sizes.
Not wanting to steal Chainu127's idea but I'm not very good with PCBs (most i've ever done is re-solder onto a PCB :S ), I noticed on the pictures that the final PCB seems to have 2 VGA connectors either end, so I was wondering if there would be any way of having a standalone PCB that literally does the open/close/tilt functions and roughly how would it connect?
My second question was could someone please give me a quick set of dimensions of the screen please??
Thanks
Not wanting to steal Chainu127's idea but I'm not very good with PCBs (most i've ever done is re-solder onto a PCB :S ), I noticed on the pictures that the final PCB seems to have 2 VGA connectors either end, so I was wondering if there would be any way of having a standalone PCB that literally does the open/close/tilt functions and roughly how would it connect?
My second question was could someone please give me a quick set of dimensions of the screen please??
Thanks
01-20-2012 | 11:56 AM
#69
Hi Phoenix,
My design does nothing with any video signals. It only does the open/close/tilt as you mentioned. The connectors are not VGA, but rather DE9 and DA15 connectors. (Think old-school serial port and game/joystick port on old computers).
They are on there for an easy way to connect the necessary wires/signals to the board. Signals such as battery, ACC, the open/tilt button wires, lights, etc. I bought extension cables for those 2 connectors, cut them in half, and stripped the wires to connect- that way I didn't have to solder any wires I ran in the car to the board directly in the confined dash space. If I have to take the hood off, I can disconnect the plugs quickly.
I don't have dimensions of the lcd panel handy, but be aware there is a limited amount of space behind the plastic piece that folds up and down, where the screen is contained. This is because of the curvature of the back piece, and the motor too. I believe there are pictures in other threads of the hood taken apart.
My design does nothing with any video signals. It only does the open/close/tilt as you mentioned. The connectors are not VGA, but rather DE9 and DA15 connectors. (Think old-school serial port and game/joystick port on old computers).
They are on there for an easy way to connect the necessary wires/signals to the board. Signals such as battery, ACC, the open/tilt button wires, lights, etc. I bought extension cables for those 2 connectors, cut them in half, and stripped the wires to connect- that way I didn't have to solder any wires I ran in the car to the board directly in the confined dash space. If I have to take the hood off, I can disconnect the plugs quickly.
I don't have dimensions of the lcd panel handy, but be aware there is a limited amount of space behind the plastic piece that folds up and down, where the screen is contained. This is because of the curvature of the back piece, and the motor too. I believe there are pictures in other threads of the hood taken apart.
01-20-2012 | 11:03 PM
#70
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2
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Ah right, my mistake, thank you very much for clarifying that, it makes much more sense now 
In reference to dimensions, I am planning on mounting an android tablet within the nav housing for navigation/gauges/music control (synced to pc and controlled by foobar2000 controller)/driver controls, and then my car pc monitor into the stock radio location for passenger entertainment/wifi/music/videos/possibly climate control/HVAC (if I can get it working) etc.
In reference to dimensions, I am planning on mounting an android tablet within the nav housing for navigation/gauges/music control (synced to pc and controlled by foobar2000 controller)/driver controls, and then my car pc monitor into the stock radio location for passenger entertainment/wifi/music/videos/possibly climate control/HVAC (if I can get it working) etc.
09-02-2014 | 07:39 AM
#71
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Hi folks,
I'm presently looking at buying an r8 and love the idea of mounting an android tablet in the Nav hood the only problem is only one of the six rexes I've viewed had the Nav hood and that one had bad paint and rust problems...and to top it off the previous owner was a smoker....
How easy woulda it be to completely retrofit the Nav hood then do this modification? I can see I'd likely need this thread to get the buttons working.....also where would I get the Nav hood? Would the whole dash need replaced? Anyone any idea how much all of that is likely to set me back?
Desperate to get myself a Rex and it doesn't look like many if those in the second hand market have navs...least ways in Scotland!
I'm presently looking at buying an r8 and love the idea of mounting an android tablet in the Nav hood the only problem is only one of the six rexes I've viewed had the Nav hood and that one had bad paint and rust problems...and to top it off the previous owner was a smoker....
How easy woulda it be to completely retrofit the Nav hood then do this modification? I can see I'd likely need this thread to get the buttons working.....also where would I get the Nav hood? Would the whole dash need replaced? Anyone any idea how much all of that is likely to set me back?
Desperate to get myself a Rex and it doesn't look like many if those in the second hand market have navs...least ways in Scotland!
09-03-2014 | 03:56 AM
#72
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Hey folks have found one i may very well buy today.
Really low mileage for its age, service history checks out with Mazda. Immaculate paintwork
Only one problem with it really - no Nav hood (it's also an older model and lacks heated seats and the electrical buttons to move the seats but that's not a deal breaker)...the lack of the Nav hood though is a big downside (although it doesn't look like it was too common leastways it isn't on the second hand market)
S the big big question for me today ahead of buying it is:
1.can I get the Nav hood retrofitted?
2.how much would it cost and where would I get it?
3.would I have to create my own PCB to control the buttons or could I use the one from another Mazda if. It could be source with it.
Many thanks all!
Ps really excited!
Really low mileage for its age, service history checks out with Mazda. Immaculate paintwork
Only one problem with it really - no Nav hood (it's also an older model and lacks heated seats and the electrical buttons to move the seats but that's not a deal breaker)...the lack of the Nav hood though is a big downside (although it doesn't look like it was too common leastways it isn't on the second hand market)
S the big big question for me today ahead of buying it is:
1.can I get the Nav hood retrofitted?
2.how much would it cost and where would I get it?
3.would I have to create my own PCB to control the buttons or could I use the one from another Mazda if. It could be source with it.
Many thanks all!
Ps really excited!
09-04-2014 | 04:59 AM
#73
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I guess your best bet would be to get one from the junkyard. Even if u but the hood it comes eithout the pcb I believe.
Unless you or someone u know is crafty enough to make the motor controls work. U need to do it all from scratch.
Or you can buy my car haha
Unless you or someone u know is crafty enough to make the motor controls work. U need to do it all from scratch.
Or you can buy my car haha
09-04-2014 | 02:28 PM
#74
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 13
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lol, had feared that.
Seems they be bought on ebay for around 140 pounds.....how does one replace them, would the whole dash need replaced?
I shudder to think about taking a saw to the dash or something!!!
Could the original PCB circuitry be salvaged from a scrapyard?....or am I missing a crucial piece of info?
Seems they be bought on ebay for around 140 pounds.....how does one replace them, would the whole dash need replaced?
I shudder to think about taking a saw to the dash or something!!!
Could the original PCB circuitry be salvaged from a scrapyard?....or am I missing a crucial piece of info?
09-04-2014 | 03:28 PM
#75
They are very easy to swap in a out... there are lots of threads on this... https://www.google.com/search?source...c+to+search%3E