I'm beginning the task of planning out my system and I could really use some advice, there're so many choices out there for car audio. I'm looking to install a decent system using quality components but I'd rather not spend a small fortune since I'm not going to be entering any sound competitions, I'm just looking for good sound quality. Of course I'm sticking with the stock head unit and using a David Navone 4 channel line output converter.

So far the only thing I've purchased is one of 4080's sub boxes and the line converter. So basically I still need to buy a 10" sub, amps, replace front components and replace rear 6x9's.

Here's a short list of what I'm thinking of getting. If anyone could give me some feedback on this configuration such as how it would sound, is it too much or too little, etc, I would really appreciate it. Any opinions on the speakers I'm looking at would be great too. I'm also curious if I should get a cap for this system. Should I stick with 6x9's in the rear or maybe replace them with 5.25's?

Sub : JL 10W6V2
Components: Kicker SS56.2 or Boston Pro60 or other recommended?
Rears : Infiniti Kappa 693.7i or other recommended?
Amp : JL 500/1 and JL 300/4 or possibly a 5-channel amp

 

Do you have the bose system?

I have the Kappa 693.5i in the rear and they sound great.

 

Ok, i'm guessing you do have the bose because your sig says GT. Anyway you may want to look into a line converter that is made to be used before the bose amps. You'll get a much better sound. I have the Soundgate LOCB.2 and it works great.

 

I'd think about either *adding* tweeters to the front or *replacing* the current 2" mid-range speakers. Makes a big difference...you'll finally hear some highs

Personally, I'd replace the 6x9s last. Unless you have people in the back seats a lot, you probably won't notice that big of a difference being up front.

I just added a 4080 sub (Infinity 1030W w/ some old 500w peak Kenwood amp I had laying around) and Clarion tweeters...sounds great. Total cost was about $450 US.

 

As you are going to be using a sub, the proper interface is crucial in this system. The stock Bose system has a different voltage preout on the front and rears. You need a device that adds to the stock wiring simply, allows you to properly adjust the levels and give you a proper way of controlling a sub. The first RX8 I did we used the stock cd player and basically threw out all other parts of the BOSE system (wearing rubber gloves so as not to contaminate ourselves and placing a lock on the dumpster so that the BOSE gear could not make a break for freedom.) The interface adaptor to use in this case is simple and will work to a far greater level than any other interface. The interface you choose will make or break the capability of the system to be added.

Use the Audio Control 6XS. It will allow the simplest hook up in this system. The stock BOSE amp in the rear deck will have 5 grey wires going into it. These are the pre-amp lines. You will have to find the front and rear preamp lines. The next step is simple. Take the lines and solder rca ends onto them, of course figure out which two wires inside of each grey wire are + and - . Plug these 4 wires into the 6XS, you are done with the interface. The 6XS is smart enough to figure out what type of signal is coming into it. The unit then adds a line driver into the signal to make it much more useable for the system down the line. It then adds a level control for you to balance out the major difference in stock input signal voltage between the front and rear signals. Next it gives you a front / rear and subwoofer preout, in the case of the sub preout, it also adds a plug in remote level control that can be taken apart and installed in one of the factory knockout panels to the left side of the steering wheel. Now you have control of the subs indipendent of the main volume control and no more need to adjust the bass setting on the cd player and throw distortion into the smaller speakers in the system. The 6XS then also throws a very good crossover into the mix on all output channels at the same time. Done and done.

Replace the rear speakers with 6.5" pointsource speakers or just a good 6x9" will do an OK job as well. Personally I would do the 6.5" idea as there is more than adequate room. For the front speakers use a oversize set of 6.5" speakers, the tweeter will go into the stock location and the woofer will fit into the stock woofer location with the creation of a mounting adaptor. The doors are big metal gongs, ensure that you sound deaden them. More info needed, no problem, drop a line and there are many great people on this site to learn from. In depth info, I can be found at www.the12volt.com in the car audio forum with the same user name. The only reason I am posting on here right now is the fact that I am again working on a RX8 for a full dvd surround audio system.

 

LMAO :D :D so true

 

forbidden, while you're here, can you explain why round speakers (say 6.5") are supposed to produce better sound quality than 6x9s? I've heard this but nobody explained it to me yet...

 

Sorry if I'm wrong but I'm trying to take a stab at it.Component speakers are also known as seperates.It gives you a beter sound stage than coaxials(6x9s). Also round speakers give you better midbass than the shape of the 6x9's.

 

Along with the 6xs Audio Control also has a LC6, would this also do the job of the line converter? its a bit cheaper than the 6xs.

 

Google is your best friend: Google Search: oval speaker disadvantage + I'm Feeling Lucky (first result Google finds)

 

Most oval speakers are coaxials, but not all coaxials are oval. Coaxials are inferior to seperate or component speakers for different reasons than oval versus round speakers. Check out the same link above - it provides the info for coaxial speakers also.

It's bedtime here in Kuwait (way past actually) otherwise I would just type out the info, so linky link you get!

 

The LC6 would do the job of the lineout convertor, however, you still need to purchase the optional remote level control. All in all, the 6XS for it's $ investment, is a far better unit for you to use in this system.

 

Give Diamond Audio some research... one of the best new brands out there for components and subs... blows the water out of BA's and Kicker's soon be in your local best buy junk because we used to be really good but have now sold out to corporate....

 

Diamond Audio makes good components.I had the S600 hex in my 8 but replaced it with Phoenix Gold Elites (which is actually made my Morel) to match my Phoenix Gold amps

 

I am really happy with speakers I never heard of. I put in 6.5 Memphis components and 6X9 Memphis coaxials in the rear. I listened to some high dollar MB Quarts, the Memphis sounded better to me but ultimately its a real personal choice.

 

I'll have to check out the Memphis lineup, unfortunately most of the speakers I'm looking at I'd have to order since it seems there aren't any dealers near me where I could listen to them.
Has anyone had experience with Adire Audio? I'm looking at their Koda 10D4 sub and Koda 6.1 components. Also looking at the JL Audio 500/5 or Crossfire vr705d amps.

 

can't go wrong with Crossfire amps...i won several Db Drag competitions and SPL competitions (not world records or anything but regional, Steve Cook always kicked my ***) using Crossfire back in the day...those amps are rock solid...John Rhee has an incredible install in his RX8...

 

I don't know if MB Quart still makes good component systems, but check them out. I have nothing against BA, sometimes I miss my old almost-finished system. If you're looking for a good amp, check out Precision Power. I had a 40 W x 2 low-end amplifier and it outperformed some higher end RF and MTX ones.

 

Precision Power is not that good anymore! They been bought out by DEI & their quality has declined alot. Since they got bought out, most people stay away from PPI products. Their old school amps are top notch but that was back in the days.