DJ Freon

I disassembled my RX-8 to see if a stereo is an easy or hard option. I am not really insterested in the "just a subwoofer" solution. I want to change out the whole thing. Custom dash, stealth sub install, change out the speakers, etc. So here are the pics. I hope they are of some use to someone else. I have some subs in the rear speaker openings just for size reference. (Boston Acoustics 8" and 10" woofers were used)

Pics on my server

I would post the pics here, but they are rather large. I didn't want the detail to be lost.

DJ Freon

Ok, I re-named everything so it makes more sense. Sorry I was lazy the 1st time.

JimJimElf

Thanks, I think those pics help out alot.

adrian-1

That's what my 8 looks like at the moment also.

I've got the base stereo and I'm replacing all the speakers and adding an amp for 2 10" subs in the rear.

I started yesterday and got the power wire ran through the firewall and down the center console into the trunk.
Removed the back seats and all the trunk lining. Also removed the front door panels.
Come Wednesday (my next off day), I'll dynamat the trunk, trunk lid, rear decklid, and front doors.
Then, install the new speakers and hook up the amp/cap in the trunk.

I've decided to remove the 2 black plastic covers behind the rear seats since they look to be on only for appearance and would rattle. Also, took out the metal cover where the bose amp is supposed to go to allow air to pass from the trunk to the cabin.

I'll post pictures soon.


Adding a sub in the center hole seems like alot of work. Are you planning on fabricating the enclosure or having it done?

93rdcurrent

Great Job and thank you for the pics. I am using the amp hole (no pun intended) to port my 12" sup through.

adrian-1

Here's the link to the pictures I took tonight.

My stereo install pictures so far

Couple of notes on installing Dynamat.
- don't cover any holes/connections you may need later
- use a wooden roller to get it to stick
- no need to use heat gun with the xtreme type
- notice the black stock sound dampening film in one of the trunk pictures (put dynamat over most of it)
(here's a site that has bulk dynamat at a discounted price of $100, usually $200)
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/546

Still need to do under the rear decklid, two metal braces behind rear seats, front doors, trunk lid, and license plate.

Should receive my speakers in a couple of days and finish with the install by this weekend. More pictures to come.

DJ Freon

I actually work at a pretty high end stereo install shop. So fabrication should not be a problem, no matter how fancy I try to get. After reviewing all the options I don't think that I'm going to use the rear deck for subs at all. I think I'm going to just elliminate the ski pass through and have a 10" sub installed facing backwards, with the volume for the box in the trunk. I'll post more as the install progresses.

nate109

Adrian,
Looks like a nice install ... I'm planning on doing the same thing over the next couple months. How did you get the power wire through the firewall? Did you have to drill a hole or did you find a place to sneak it in?

Also, do you think ALL that dynamat is necessary in the trunk? I was thinking I would just dynamat the trunk lid and the rear deck lid ... do you think that'll be enough?

Let me know how it sounds when you're done.

adrian-1

I drilled through the firewall behind the washer fluid reservoir.(Here's Exentric's thread w/ pics amp power wire ).

My 2 10's will be facing towards the rear so most of the vibrations will be in the trunk area. Didn't want to take a chance and have to dynamat it again later. You might be ok with just the rear deck and trunk lid. The trunk lid has two seperate metal pieces that are close together. I dynamated them together and that should keep them from rattling.