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RX-8 Schematics?

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Old 08-25-2003 | 04:20 PM
  #26  
jtimbck2's Avatar
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Santa Fe, NM
Unhappy

Originally posted by jtimbck2
Thanks, I think that's just what I need!
Originally posted by ShawnC
Cool! I was hoping they would help since they didn't for me. I have to get the right ones next week.
On second look, I realize that this schematic only shows the connections for the amp in the trunk. What I need is the pinouts for the connectors on the head unit. I'm (eventually) going to install an XM radio (using an FM modulator), and I need to attach power to said modulator. Does anyone have the pinout diagram for the head unit used in the RX-8, or do you know where I can get it?
Old 08-26-2003 | 12:04 AM
  #27  
91vert's Avatar
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From: St. Charles MO
I would be interested in seeing the "complete" schematics as well.

I wonder if we spoke to the service guys at the Mazda dealership inquiring about this, if they would photocopy the pages from the FSM with the schematics.

Anybody making a trip to the service department soon?
Old 09-20-2005 | 01:49 PM
  #28  
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Old 09-20-2005 | 05:22 PM
  #31  
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From: Houston
I think you have the rear and the fronts mixed. The rear speakers are 2 ohm speakers so I would have to guess they would actually make the 25 watts.

The little 2" speakers in the doors likely couldn't handle 25 Watts anyway.

The door woofers values make sense. (It is a .5 ohm woofer with a non-BTL 12V class-D amp driving it.)

The total RMS system power of 300 Watts does not make sense. The whole system uses a 20 Amp fuse. With 14.4 Volts for the battery, 20 amps of input power means a MAXIMUM of 288 Watts input to the Bose system so the output can't be 300 Watts even with very high efficiency. The A/D's, DSP's and Microprocessors are all going to need power. Also, the woofer amps might be 80% efficient but the other speakers will be lucky to be 60% via the standard grade BTL amps that drive them. (I have pictures and part numbers of all the components at home. It is not that complicated of a system)

All channels driven is likely to be in the 200 Watt RMS. Any more constant draw and you will likely blow a fuse.

-Mr. Wigggles
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