Hey guys. I am looking at getting an amp and subs for my RX-8 (obviously). I dont want to cheap out, but I certainly cant afford too much.

Basically, can anyone point out exactly what I should get in terms of best punch for the price? One key thing is I want to be able to control the subwoofer with some sort of remote or attachment since I do live in a neighborhood that I would like to keep respect in.

If anyone could even ink me directly the amp + subs and where to buy that would be really awesome, but certainly not expected. And if there is a recommended box (or should i have that custom done by my local shop?).

Thanks for any tips guys!

 

Never fear, Jed is here!!

This is really going to depend on exactly how much you're willing to spend...
I installed dual JL 10w6 (version 2's) and I put them in 4080 boxes. 4080 boxes are fiberglass enclosures made by a forum member...

Here's my thread on the sound stuff. (feel free to give it a friendly bump)
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/jedis-bose-stereo-upgrade-103771/

I'm running a remote bass control to the amp...you should look for something similar so you don't **** off those neighbors of yours.

Oh, if you have a bose system, you'll need a good line converter: http://www.logjamelectronics.com/sounlocbosli.html

 

Well honestly the closer I can keep at or under $500 the better the chances. My girlfriend would take away many of lifes better privileges if I spent too much on it.

 

hmm, under $500 is POSSIBLE but it'll be tough...
Can you build your own box? If so, that'll save you some money.

 

OK I talked to a friend and realized I got 0% interest on a credit card for a few more months. How does $1000 sound?

 

You can spend anywhere from 500.00 to 5k... You will pretty much get what you pay for... Spend a little extra and buy quality stuff... You buy junk, you will be replacing it very soon....

 

I was in your same exact position about 2 weeks ago... I ordered one of those custom fit boxes for the RX-8 off ebay for 150 bucks... Looks great. And then I went down to my local shop and they cut me a deal for 2 Memphis 12" subs, Memphis door speakers and a JBL amp for 500 installed. So I ended up spending about 650 bucks on a great system in my opinion. U could go that route...

 

Here's what I am currently looking at. I have the 9-speaker BOSE sound system in the car already, so the sound quality itself is amazing. This system is more to add some punch to it. I am pretty good at finding deals online so heres what I have seen.

Kicker KX 1200.1 Mono D Class Amp - $400-500
2x ALPINE SWR-1242D 3000W 12" DVC SUBS- $280 (for 2)
Soundgate LOCB.2 Bose Line Output Converter - $90

Box is where I may need some help. Any box recommended for 2 12" Type R's? Or should I stick to one 12" and in that case what box for that? How much does that RX-8 club forum user charge for making fiber glass boxes? Thanks for any help!

 

Also, does Dynamat make that much of a difference in terms is it worth the cost/looks/time to install?

Plus lemme change it up a bit. What do you guys suggest getting for about $1500-$2000 retail. I usually can cut that amount in half so thats the idea. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Long live rotary!

 

in my opinion, get 2 nice 10" as opposed to finding a deal for 12's... you really dont need any more than 2 10" subs with a strong amp in these cars.

 

Yes, 2 10" subs will be plenty. And they will be easier to fit in the suitcase of a trunk that we have

 

I have two 10's encased in the 4080 boxes with a decent amp (needs to be replaced) and they kick MORE than enough base into the car. Go that route. You will be more than happy.

 

OK so I am changing to:

Kicker KX 1200.1 Mono D Class Amp - $400-500
2x ALPINE SWR-1042D 3000W 10" DVC SUBS- $240 (for 2)
Soundgate LOCB.2 Bose Line Output Converter - $90

Box - the 4080 is great and all, but I cant afford to spend $600 on boxes. A tad too much for me. What is a good ported box I can get at a reasonable cost?

 

[quote=GameGuy369;1908939]OK so I am changing to:

Kicker KX 1200.1 Mono D Class Amp - $400-500
quote]

Excellent Choice! You will not be dissappointed!

 

Any recommendation on a cheap, but effective box?

 

don't forget about the head unit my man, that'll be at least $300 more for the watts you're talkin'.

i don't know much about boxes, I do know you can get a good one for around $200, or even build your own if the head unit puts you near your budget.

 

Is a new head unit really needed? Wouldnt that require replacing essentially the entire A/C, CD, etc unit?

 

yeah you have to buy a dashboard kit and a new head unit

you don't HAVE to, but it'd be a shame if you bought all that stuff and ran it through a stock head unit

 

OK well for now will it still sound OK to do it this way and then maybe in the future put in a new head unit.

 

Do a little more research on this board. Hardly anyone has replaced their headunits. Not needed at all. For the price range you're lookin.... search ebay for the dual 10" box for the RX8. Should be like $150-$175 bucks. Fits perfect and is damn solid. Type-Rs are an excellent choice. Awesome bang for the buck. I think it'll be more than enough bump for you. Coming from a dual 15" setup with 3kWrms... I wanted something smaller and simple for my 8. Got a single 12" in a vented box powered with about 300Wrms. Way more then I really needed. I should have just bought a Bazooka tube. Dead serious. Saved space and easily would have rounded out my music taste.

 

OK i have narrowed it down I believe. Here's my total setup. Need one last suggestion.

Kicker KX 1200.1 Mono D Class Amp - $400-500
2x ALPINE SWR-1042D 3000W 10" DVC SUBS- $240 (for 2)
Soundgate LOCB.2 Bose Line Output Converter - $90
ZEnclosures Box from ebay - $150

The final question is with the amp. Do I go with the 1000.1, 1200.1 (or is it 1250.1?), or the 1500.1? I mean if the subs can handle all the 1500.1 can give then I guess it makes sense to take that. Just lemme know. Also if anyone can give me tips on how to understand what can handle what that would be nice for future reference.

 

your system sounds good, it will hit hard. I have a pair of JL 10 W7's in my car and its pretty friggin loud.

 

You really wont notice a difference between 1000, 1200 and 1500 watts. You will however draw much more power from your electrical system. I'd just go with ever is cheaper. Hell, if its that much cheaper, go with the 750.1.

All of the above mentioned Kicker amps are stable and output full power at 2 ohms. Meaning you will want the dual 2 ohm version of the Type-Rs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NEW-ALPINE-SWR...QQcmdZViewItem
Wire them like this:

 

you dont have to do research on a thread to know that a head unit increases quality and power so much

are you seriously arguing this point?

 

I'm not arguing anything first off. Second, it's unnecessary in this case. He's not building a trophy winning install. He's looking for (And I quote) best punch for the price. Figure in the price of the install kit plus headunit... and you've doubled what he's already planning on spending. ($750ish). He said $500 at first, then thanks to a credit card could possibly push it to $1000 or $1500 retail. He'd spend every cent of that and maybe more by replacing the headunit.

And further more, an aftermarket headunit doesn't "increase quality and power so much". (The diction in that sentence alone is comical) The output on most OEM headunits is very similar to what an aftermarket headunit would output on it's high-level outs, unless heavily EQed for an OEM upgraded system. (Bose, Monsoon, etc) It has been proven several times on this board the 8's high-level outs are relatively flat. The biggest feature that will lend itself to SQ would be the high voltage RCA outputs vice using the LOC previously mentioned. These will help fight induced engine/accessory noises by allowing him to lower the gain on his amp for the same power out. A solid enhancement on most installs I admit. However many/most of us on here have used the LOC method and are having little/no problems with induced noises. So, it could easily yield little/no noticeable improvement in SQ. As for the increase in power, I think I just covered that too. The gains on the amp should be lowered to match the output voltage of the headunit. If you refuse to lower them, yes you will get more power out of the amp... but you'll clip the hell out of the outputs sending distortion to your new subs. Have fun with that. The only other advantages would be the increase in features an aftermarket headunit would offer. Multi-band EQ, time correction, fully adjustable active crossovers, ability to add a DVD/NAV units... all awesome features obviously. But like I said in the beginning of this post, unnecessary for this particular install.