Speaker sizes, harnesses, kits, etc: audio install reference
#76
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no tweeters
I've just gotten a 04 rx8 from japan with the base stereo. I was wondering why the sound was so flat so I pulled the plastic off where the tweeter is supposed to be and there is none!!
Everything I've read says there should be one but this is definitely the lowest spec'd model (the head unit has a tape player, no cd)
There doesn't appear to be any wiring for tweeters either so I guess if I upgrade the speakers I'll be looking at 6.5" coax speakers in the front.
does anyone else have a similar setup?
Everything I've read says there should be one but this is definitely the lowest spec'd model (the head unit has a tape player, no cd)
There doesn't appear to be any wiring for tweeters either so I guess if I upgrade the speakers I'll be looking at 6.5" coax speakers in the front.
does anyone else have a similar setup?
#77
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Some modification required
I pulled my nav the other day and installed a 3.5 inch speaker in the center dash pod. I HAD a 4 inch speaker i had planned to use, bug the larger speaker would have meant grinding away a significant amount of the dash to make it fit. The 3.5 inch speaker required taking a couple millimeters off around the entire hole for the speaker before it would sit properly.
In short, you can make a 3.5 inch speaker fit in the center pod with minor work, and with a LOT of work you MIGHT fit a 4" in there.
In short, you can make a 3.5 inch speaker fit in the center pod with minor work, and with a LOT of work you MIGHT fit a 4" in there.
#78
so im going to add 2 10's to my car with 2 seprate amps powering them. What kind of channel converter do i need to tie into the bose system. Sorry but i got lost trying to read the fourms.
#80
ok, i just bought an 04 RX-8...
its got the Bose headunit and stuff, i noticed the speakers in the door (drivers side, not sure about passenger...since i dont sit over there... cuts out... and if i give the area where the speaker is a nice little SMACK... it will turn on, for a bit...
i took the door panel apart and looked for loose wires/connections... didnt seen to find anything...
my questions are...
1. Is this a common problem?
2. How would i detect a loose wire, if its not really LOOSE... just...barely not making the connection or something?
thanks.
its got the Bose headunit and stuff, i noticed the speakers in the door (drivers side, not sure about passenger...since i dont sit over there... cuts out... and if i give the area where the speaker is a nice little SMACK... it will turn on, for a bit...
i took the door panel apart and looked for loose wires/connections... didnt seen to find anything...
my questions are...
1. Is this a common problem?
2. How would i detect a loose wire, if its not really LOOSE... just...barely not making the connection or something?
thanks.
#84
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I can't promise, but it will probably work, but you won't get as much volume out of them due to the increase in impedance (2ohm to 3ohm). Plus if the sensitivity is different on the Polks, that will also affect the actual output.
#85
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Yeah I really want to get those though because they sounded better than the Infinity Kappa 693.7's. Would buying an aftermarket nav system, which I plan to do later, allow the Polks to work well? I really want to get these, but don't want to have to spend a ton of money to get integrated into the car.
#86
Wait if there is no output on the harness for the tweeters, where is the crossover? Where does the front L/R get split into tweeter/lower door speaker? (On the non-bose setup)
#87
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Do not use an Audiocontrol LC7 for systems with Bose head units. In my experience, the LC7 cannot properly process the differential signal produced by the bose head and will introduce large amounts of noise into your system.
A JL cleansweep is a much better option, as it is specifically designed to take advantage of differential signals.
The LC7, in my opinion, would be ideal for a base head unit, but not a Bose.
A JL cleansweep is a much better option, as it is specifically designed to take advantage of differential signals.
The LC7, in my opinion, would be ideal for a base head unit, but not a Bose.
Last edited by Socket7; 08-29-2008 at 03:33 PM.
#89
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Really? My LC7 had horrendous noise issues. I could hear every electrical device in my car through the stereo. Alternator, air pump, power steering, turning the lights on and off. absolutely zero issues with the cleansweep, grounded and powered in exactly the same place.
I have a very strong suspicion now that I got a broken LC7.... It's done other weird stuff...
I have a very strong suspicion now that I got a broken LC7.... It's done other weird stuff...
#90
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Really? My LC7 had horrendous noise issues. I could hear every electrical device in my car through the stereo. Alternator, air pump, power steering, turning the lights on and off. absolutely zero issues with the cleansweep, grounded and powered in exactly the same place.
I have a very strong suspicion now that I got a broken LC7.... It's done other weird stuff...
I have a very strong suspicion now that I got a broken LC7.... It's done other weird stuff...
I forget what the correct setting was for our HUs, but I think you want the "ground isolation" setting, because the headunit uses the ground signal differently than the amplifier. I had an AudioControl DQT unit that sounded poor until I switched the ground isolation jumper setting.
Last edited by Astral; 08-29-2008 at 12:06 AM.
#91
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fiddling with the jumpers and gains was the first thing i did. Nothing fixed any of the problems.
The cleansweep eliminated all noise. It didn't just reduce the whine, it's gone. completely. The cleansweep is specifically designed to handle low level, differential inputs, and that's exactly what is being pushed out of the Bose head unit. The LC7 seems to be geared more towards speaker level signals, which is why my gains had to be way up to get any decent amount of output from the amp.
The cleansweep eliminated all noise. It didn't just reduce the whine, it's gone. completely. The cleansweep is specifically designed to handle low level, differential inputs, and that's exactly what is being pushed out of the Bose head unit. The LC7 seems to be geared more towards speaker level signals, which is why my gains had to be way up to get any decent amount of output from the amp.
#96
Does anyone know how many amps is the fuse used for the harness?
Nevermind I found it. 7.5A + 20A on some models. I wonder which models get the extra 20A.. probably the bose.
Nevermind I found it. 7.5A + 20A on some models. I wonder which models get the extra 20A.. probably the bose.
Last edited by rollerbldes; 10-14-2008 at 02:36 AM.
#97
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Has anyone got any idea how much clearance there is between the back deck lid and the plastic grill (when fitted?)
I have some Infinity 9613i's I'm putting in on the weekend, and before I start tearing things apart and trying to wedge other things in, I would like to know if the speakers will drop in from the top, or whether I will have to attach them underneath from inside the boot...
I have some Infinity 9613i's I'm putting in on the weekend, and before I start tearing things apart and trying to wedge other things in, I would like to know if the speakers will drop in from the top, or whether I will have to attach them underneath from inside the boot...
#98
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Has anyone got any idea how much clearance there is between the back deck lid and the plastic grill (when fitted?)
I have some Infinity 9613i's I'm putting in on the weekend, and before I start tearing things apart and trying to wedge other things in, I would like to know if the speakers will drop in from the top, or whether I will have to attach them underneath from inside the boot...
I have some Infinity 9613i's I'm putting in on the weekend, and before I start tearing things apart and trying to wedge other things in, I would like to know if the speakers will drop in from the top, or whether I will have to attach them underneath from inside the boot...
#99
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Thanks
Ta for that,
I read your earlier post where you mentioned the Torx bit may be size 20, but you weren't sure...so I picked up a Torx kit, with every size under the sun...just in case...(along with an angle bit to get it under under the rear window!)
The tweeter and the mid on those Infinity's stick up out of the cone on a stalk, probably just under inch above the lip of the speaker rim...only the weekend will tell!!
Will keep you posted, but I have printed of those reference pictures as a guide...thanks!
Dean
www.deanknowsley.com
I read your earlier post where you mentioned the Torx bit may be size 20, but you weren't sure...so I picked up a Torx kit, with every size under the sun...just in case...(along with an angle bit to get it under under the rear window!)
The tweeter and the mid on those Infinity's stick up out of the cone on a stalk, probably just under inch above the lip of the speaker rim...only the weekend will tell!!
Will keep you posted, but I have printed of those reference pictures as a guide...thanks!
Dean
www.deanknowsley.com
#100
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HELP!
BOSE - Ok, got the back seats out, no probs, got the deck covers off, no probs. Got the New Infinity 9613i 6 x 9s in fine....
Hooked them up, paying careful attention to +/- as per the first post....
Now, when the ignition is on, (the radio doesnt even have to be on) there is a loud BEEEEEEEP (constant, painful) coming from the front door tweeters.....more from the drivers side...
Unplugged everything, doesnt go away... only goes away when I unhook the amp.
Left the terminal off the battery for 10 minutes, maybe to reset things...no go...
.... have I fried my amp, and how the f...... could I have done that, given all I did was replace the rear speakers???
Anyone come across this before?
BOSE - Ok, got the back seats out, no probs, got the deck covers off, no probs. Got the New Infinity 9613i 6 x 9s in fine....
Hooked them up, paying careful attention to +/- as per the first post....
Now, when the ignition is on, (the radio doesnt even have to be on) there is a loud BEEEEEEEP (constant, painful) coming from the front door tweeters.....more from the drivers side...
Unplugged everything, doesnt go away... only goes away when I unhook the amp.
Left the terminal off the battery for 10 minutes, maybe to reset things...no go...
.... have I fried my amp, and how the f...... could I have done that, given all I did was replace the rear speakers???
Anyone come across this before?