Speaker sizes, harnesses, kits, etc: audio install reference
#201
Registered
iTrader: (13)
Yepp thx got everything done I just tapped the stock wiring just ran the red/green to the crossover and made a new 16awg wire for the tweets left the rear tweets bose and threw everything in works damn good and sounds Amazing compared to those paper bose speaker with no subs only thing is it took me and a a friend about 8 hours and I didnt doc $hit like I said I was. mostly because I was being picky about where to run wires etc. but all is good now loving my new bumping system. still feels like I may need the Lci6 line out converter thing because the fronts seem like they aren't getting enough juice they bump nice and clear but it feels like they got more in them.
For guys in the future that dont want to run new wires just tap the bose wires and run a crossover and install new tweets and you should be good to go thats all I did.
thanks for the help guys!
P.S. solder all your connection take the time to do it clean and right I did (minus running new wire.)
For guys in the future that dont want to run new wires just tap the bose wires and run a crossover and install new tweets and you should be good to go thats all I did.
thanks for the help guys!
P.S. solder all your connection take the time to do it clean and right I did (minus running new wire.)
#202
I just bought
2014 Car Android 4 0 Tablet PC DVD 3G WiFi GPS Stereo Bluetooth iPod FM Radio CD | eBay
Has anyone tried this head unit out whats the scoop on this android deck?
Also here is what all I'm having installed hopefully this weekend if the 680.9cs come in there currently on back order. I also purchased the metra kit does anyone know if I'll have any issues with the install I should know about, or whats everyone's opinion on Infinity I read allot out them and they seem to have the best sound quality for the money so I've heard.
Front: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
Rear: Infinity Kappa 682.9cf
Frontal amp: NEW BOSS CXX2404 4CH
Sub: Infinity 100.9W 10" Selectable Smart Impedance Kappa Series
Sub amp: INFINITY KAPPA ONE MONOBLOCK
Box: Pyle PLQB10 10" 500 Watt Bandpass Enclosure System Box 68888710947 | eBay I got this one I'm going to take out the Pyle sub and insert the Kappa.
2014 Car Android 4 0 Tablet PC DVD 3G WiFi GPS Stereo Bluetooth iPod FM Radio CD | eBay
Has anyone tried this head unit out whats the scoop on this android deck?
Also here is what all I'm having installed hopefully this weekend if the 680.9cs come in there currently on back order. I also purchased the metra kit does anyone know if I'll have any issues with the install I should know about, or whats everyone's opinion on Infinity I read allot out them and they seem to have the best sound quality for the money so I've heard.
Front: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
Rear: Infinity Kappa 682.9cf
Frontal amp: NEW BOSS CXX2404 4CH
Sub: Infinity 100.9W 10" Selectable Smart Impedance Kappa Series
Sub amp: INFINITY KAPPA ONE MONOBLOCK
Box: Pyle PLQB10 10" 500 Watt Bandpass Enclosure System Box 68888710947 | eBay I got this one I'm going to take out the Pyle sub and insert the Kappa.
Last edited by d_extreme; 03-24-2014 at 08:50 PM. Reason: Adding everything in the system.
#203
User and Abuser
iTrader: (3)
You get what you pay for. Infinity makes great stuff. Boss, Pyle and rando-nonames do not.
Side note, few weeks back I had a customer bring me one of those no-name eBay Chinese Android units to install in...a Silverado I think? $130 in parts + $100 in labor. Unit turns on, shows the splash screen....and never anything else. Ouch. I felt bad for the kid, but hey, not my fault. All my connections are soldered and heat shrunk. Unit gets power fine. It's a software issue my man.
Side note, few weeks back I had a customer bring me one of those no-name eBay Chinese Android units to install in...a Silverado I think? $130 in parts + $100 in labor. Unit turns on, shows the splash screen....and never anything else. Ouch. I felt bad for the kid, but hey, not my fault. All my connections are soldered and heat shrunk. Unit gets power fine. It's a software issue my man.
#204
Hey d_extreme how'd your head unit work out? I really only want a tablet as a head unit, with a 3.5mm out to some kind of amplifier that can then split the audio out to my 9 BOSE speakers.
#205
I hope anyone could help me
i want to change my headunit, i will purchase some model of pionner with carplay (right now i dont know yet what model i will purchase)
i have a shinka 2006 with bose sound system, every thread i read, and every video i saw all the rx8 was an standar sound system, with 4 speakers (2 fronts 2 rear)
how i will split the sound to 9 speaker if the HU only have 2 exits (2 fronts and 2 rear)
I will use the metrakit
anyone can help me?
i want to change my headunit, i will purchase some model of pionner with carplay (right now i dont know yet what model i will purchase)
i have a shinka 2006 with bose sound system, every thread i read, and every video i saw all the rx8 was an standar sound system, with 4 speakers (2 fronts 2 rear)
how i will split the sound to 9 speaker if the HU only have 2 exits (2 fronts and 2 rear)
I will use the metrakit
anyone can help me?
#206
Hey all,
I've spent several hours reading and searching through posts and I haven't been able to find a truly good avenue to take to resolve my alternator feedback I'm getting through my speakers.
I have a Bose system, I've removed the OEM deck, and I have a Metra installation kit installed. After installing all of that according to the Metra kit instructions, there was no sound, but also no alternator feedback (basically no sound output at all). Then I read this:
And hooked up the ACC +12v to the pink/black wire. Now I am getting sound, however with the alternator feedback (e.g. high pitch noise which increases with RPM). But I've also read posts like this:
and https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...17/#post188555
Which suggest that the +12v to the Bose amp in back (pink/black wire) should actually be the constant 12v, not switched from the ignition. I'm thinking that in the OEM deck perhaps the constant is used in order to avoid alternator feedback? But at the same time, I'm not confident that the battery won't drain while the engine is off given what FoxRacer said.
Does anyone have a bigger picture of this whole situation now that we're 10+ years later?
P.S. No, no wires are touching each other or ground/chassis.
I've spent several hours reading and searching through posts and I haven't been able to find a truly good avenue to take to resolve my alternator feedback I'm getting through my speakers.
I have a Bose system, I've removed the OEM deck, and I have a Metra installation kit installed. After installing all of that according to the Metra kit instructions, there was no sound, but also no alternator feedback (basically no sound output at all). Then I read this:
From earlier in this thread:
These may be one of the wires you need. Not a remote turn-on in the sense we know them, but just wires that get +12V when the car is on. A remote turn-on would do the same thing. Check to see if your Series II Bose amp has these wire and check the voltage on them with a DMM.
EDIT:Ahhh I guess Carbon answered you in the other thread. Pink/black it should be.
These may be one of the wires you need. Not a remote turn-on in the sense we know them, but just wires that get +12V when the car is on. A remote turn-on would do the same thing. Check to see if your Series II Bose amp has these wire and check the voltage on them with a DMM.
EDIT:Ahhh I guess Carbon answered you in the other thread. Pink/black it should be.
Which suggest that the +12v to the Bose amp in back (pink/black wire) should actually be the constant 12v, not switched from the ignition. I'm thinking that in the OEM deck perhaps the constant is used in order to avoid alternator feedback? But at the same time, I'm not confident that the battery won't drain while the engine is off given what FoxRacer said.
Does anyone have a bigger picture of this whole situation now that we're 10+ years later?
P.S. No, no wires are touching each other or ground/chassis.
#207
Hey all,
I've spent several hours reading and searching through posts and I haven't been able to find a truly good avenue to take to resolve my alternator feedback I'm getting through my speakers.
I have a Bose system, I've removed the OEM deck, and I have a Metra installation kit installed. After installing all of that according to the Metra kit instructions, there was no sound, but also no alternator feedback (basically no sound output at all). Then I read this:
And hooked up the ACC +12v to the pink/black wire. Now I am getting sound, however with the alternator feedback (e.g. high pitch noise which increases with RPM). But I've also read posts like this:
and https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...17/#post188555
Which suggest that the +12v to the Bose amp in back (pink/black wire) should actually be the constant 12v, not switched from the ignition. I'm thinking that in the OEM deck perhaps the constant is used in order to avoid alternator feedback? But at the same time, I'm not confident that the battery won't drain while the engine is off given what FoxRacer said.
Does anyone have a bigger picture of this whole situation now that we're 10+ years later?
P.S. No, no wires are touching each other or ground/chassis.
I've spent several hours reading and searching through posts and I haven't been able to find a truly good avenue to take to resolve my alternator feedback I'm getting through my speakers.
I have a Bose system, I've removed the OEM deck, and I have a Metra installation kit installed. After installing all of that according to the Metra kit instructions, there was no sound, but also no alternator feedback (basically no sound output at all). Then I read this:
And hooked up the ACC +12v to the pink/black wire. Now I am getting sound, however with the alternator feedback (e.g. high pitch noise which increases with RPM). But I've also read posts like this:
and https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...17/#post188555
Which suggest that the +12v to the Bose amp in back (pink/black wire) should actually be the constant 12v, not switched from the ignition. I'm thinking that in the OEM deck perhaps the constant is used in order to avoid alternator feedback? But at the same time, I'm not confident that the battery won't drain while the engine is off given what FoxRacer said.
Does anyone have a bigger picture of this whole situation now that we're 10+ years later?
P.S. No, no wires are touching each other or ground/chassis.
(Really it shouldn't matter since devices only consume as much amperage as they need, but as others have pointed out, the Bose system is crap, so who knows how the ICs look inside of the amp.)
EDIT: Nope, wasn't that. Next best guess is that it's that the RCA wires are bundled into the stereo harness from Metra (since normally they're speaker level [e.g. post-amp] wires). Bought some copper tape shielding and I'll apply that to the wires in addition to separating them.
Last edited by nbetcher; 04-25-2019 at 10:14 PM.
#208
Bose system, after navi uninstall need help!!
Hello, I have trouble with my 2004 rx8, after fully build from scratch, drivers doors speakers doesnt work, tried changing crossovers, checked few bose amps. I've heard that after navi removal sometimes it happens (my harness from amp is from system with navigation, but there is no navi in a car) so maybe someone can explain me, how to bypass that?
Last edited by Lukosisp; 03-16-2021 at 04:15 AM.
#209
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
stickied thread as there's a ton of useful info here.
#210
Non-Bose to Bose Swap?
Hey all, dumb question: can a car that didn’t have a Bose system be easily swapped to the Bose system? I just got an RX-8 without, but my old (totalled, sadly) car had a Bose system I’d like to swap in. Are all the plugs/wires/etc. already there? Or will I need to cannibalize some wiring from my old car to get all the speakers working?
#211
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
good question Neo.
my understanding is you'd be doing quite a bit of cannabalizing in order to make that work as the speaker sizes are different and the bose uses amps in the doors / rear deck that you'll need to wire up.
honestly probably not worth the effort given the Bose system in our car isn't even that good. If you're upgrading it would make more sense to just use aftermarket parts
my understanding is you'd be doing quite a bit of cannabalizing in order to make that work as the speaker sizes are different and the bose uses amps in the doors / rear deck that you'll need to wire up.
honestly probably not worth the effort given the Bose system in our car isn't even that good. If you're upgrading it would make more sense to just use aftermarket parts
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Tamas (12-10-2021)
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