Subs for the 8: What sizes fit?
#1
Subs for the 8: What sizes fit?
So basically, I am a hardcore audio fanatic and I am going to start doing an install for my 8. The question is, would I be able to fit a 12 into the 8? I will most likely have it sealed, but if I have enough room I will build a ported box for it. I want to still have trunk space in able to hold some boxes or bags, so would a 12 be a good choice or do you guys suggest I go with a 10 or two 10's or what?
Give me some ideas, in my old car I had two 15's and then a 12W7 so I am a mix of SQL now, most likely going to go ported if I can.
www.cardomain.com/id/silverrx8 is my cardomain page, the 96 Blazer was my old car that I did all the audio too so you can check it out.
Give me some ideas, in my old car I had two 15's and then a 12W7 so I am a mix of SQL now, most likely going to go ported if I can.
www.cardomain.com/id/silverrx8 is my cardomain page, the 96 Blazer was my old car that I did all the audio too so you can check it out.
#5
Any pictures?
I am basically going to go with a "super-sub" being a 10" Brahma, IDMax, or XXX
I'm going to need around 1400-1500RMS to run them.
Those running "true" high powered systems, is the 8's alt strong enough to handle the current draw? Experience any dimming of the lights?
I am basically going to go with a "super-sub" being a 10" Brahma, IDMax, or XXX
I'm going to need around 1400-1500RMS to run them.
Those running "true" high powered systems, is the 8's alt strong enough to handle the current draw? Experience any dimming of the lights?
#7
Not going to go with JL. Although they are good subs, they are over priced. The Brahma, IDMax and XXX are all in the same ballpark than the W7, and for about 1/2 the price.
Second problem with JL is their 3ohm voice coils meaning it'll be harder to find an amp to power it (other than their 500/1 or 1000/1 which is also over priced)
Second problem with JL is their 3ohm voice coils meaning it'll be harder to find an amp to power it (other than their 500/1 or 1000/1 which is also over priced)
#8
Originally Posted by HardHitter
Any pictures?
I am basically going to go with a "super-sub" being a 10" Brahma, IDMax, or XXX
I'm going to need around 1400-1500RMS to run them.
Those running "true" high powered systems, is the 8's alt strong enough to handle the current draw? Experience any dimming of the lights?
I am basically going to go with a "super-sub" being a 10" Brahma, IDMax, or XXX
I'm going to need around 1400-1500RMS to run them.
Those running "true" high powered systems, is the 8's alt strong enough to handle the current draw? Experience any dimming of the lights?
But seriously our alternators are only rated at 100 Amperes. I'm running an Orion 1200D and 2x10w6v2 and was really considering a couple of XXX but I can already feel the car slow with what I have. No dimming but I've had a 1 Farad cap on since the begining.
#9
Originally Posted by HardHitter
Not going to go with JL. Although they are good subs, they are over priced. The Brahma, IDMax and XXX are all in the same ballpark than the W7, and for about 1/2 the price.
Second problem with JL is their 3ohm voice coils meaning it'll be harder to find an amp to power it (other than their 500/1 or 1000/1 which is also over priced)
Second problem with JL is their 3ohm voice coils meaning it'll be harder to find an amp to power it (other than their 500/1 or 1000/1 which is also over priced)
#12
I have a 12w7 in a 1.5cuft sealed box that fits underneath the rear deck and comes up to about 1" before the well in fhe floor starts. Still leaves considerable room. There's also about 3" left on each side of the box, so you could lessen the intrusion into the remaining trunk by making the box wider.
#13
You saw the subs in my trunk... veilside kit with 12's in the trunk in Hayward. Not much other room, but the sub box could have been flatter, but they need to stick out about there far or the quality of sound would have been reduced.
Ryan
Ryan
#15
503wtq Boosted Bimmer
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, California
Originally Posted by staticlag
On an interesting note, I took a road trip to Kansas this last weekend. And I took out my sub to put in the spare tire.
Oversteer was gone.
Dangit, why can't I have good handling and good base?
Oversteer was gone.
Dangit, why can't I have good handling and good base?
Last edited by Rotary Rasp; 10-26-2005 at 01:33 PM.
#23
depending on the subs. 2 10's will be louder if both were in sealed boxes due to cone area, however, since the 12 is ported, it will maybe get a little louder than the 10's but maybe not as good in the SQ. But again, it depends on the subs, efficiency, amp, and box.
If using only a single sub setup, comparing 10W7 vs 12W7.
12W7>10W7 both in sealed or ported box due to cone area
10W7 a little > 12W7 if 10 is ported and 12 is sealed
Basically, porting any sub is a 3db gain, doubling the power is again another 3db gain.
3db gain is accountable for 2x as loud as what it was before.
If using only a single sub setup, comparing 10W7 vs 12W7.
12W7>10W7 both in sealed or ported box due to cone area
10W7 a little > 12W7 if 10 is ported and 12 is sealed
Basically, porting any sub is a 3db gain, doubling the power is again another 3db gain.
3db gain is accountable for 2x as loud as what it was before.
#25
Fender,
If you don't need any trunk space, you probably can go with two 15" drivers with 1000 watts a piece. With the right fiberglass box you will still have enough room for amps, wiring and whatever else.
I don't know how good it will sound but for some reason I don't think a lot of people car too much about sound quality in this thread.
-Mr. Wigggles
If you don't need any trunk space, you probably can go with two 15" drivers with 1000 watts a piece. With the right fiberglass box you will still have enough room for amps, wiring and whatever else.
I don't know how good it will sound but for some reason I don't think a lot of people car too much about sound quality in this thread.
-Mr. Wigggles