Yes....a monster cap is the same thing as a capacitor. The "monster" just refers to the brand. I agree with Juice about the cap. You should not need one. If you are worried about having adequate power you could get an upgraded battery. The Optimus brand is pretty popular, but as long as you find a battery that offers a higher (usually 600+ at a minimum) CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) rating you would be fine. I do not know who sells aftermarket batteries aimed at the car audio crowd for our car, but I am sure you could find out really easily.

 

Optima 35 series size fits the 8's.

 

hey i bough a pyle 2540 1600w (120rmsx2) at 4 ohm and i have 2 12" ultra linear subs (1000 rms) and i been trying to hoop everything up my self. i plugged in the last system i had in my integra but i had a aftermarket head unit. on my 04 rx8 i am tapping the rear speakers to get a input siganl into the amp, i ran the 12v cable to the amp from the battery, i ran my ground wire to a lug nut in the back, the only thing i cant figure out is where to hoop up the remote wire to.(and do i need the remote wire to be plugged in for my amp to be able to work, because i was just testing my amp so iplugged the 12v battery wire straight to the remote wire connector and my amp would light up but the power light wouldnt come on, and neither did the protectiong led.


any help i can get my pissed off mood will appreciated alot(i been trying to hoop this sh**t up for 1 week now)


thank you

 

take apart your center console and tap into the green wire of your cigarette lighter plug like this:

then run the remote wire to your trunk. i went under the rear passenger seat, then through the side like this:

 

oh yeah, and don't run your battery power wire to the remote turn on. if you do that your amp will always be on and drain your battery.

 

this looks like a pretty good option too. What do you think?
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...remote+turn+on
See post # 26

 

Felk420 just used this to hook up his amp and he said it works like a charm.
https://www.rx8club.com/audio-video-94/frustated-135843/

 

i just showed how to route the wire under the rear passenger seat and through the side as well. in that other thread they just show where to hook it up, which is the same place i did. they just have the wires going straight through the opening in the middle of the trunk.

 

IDK..Looks like this thread is showing how to hook it up to the remote turn on for the amp that is already in the trunk int he Bose equipped 8's. If that is what you were referring to I guess I was confused. I though you were talking about hooking up to the rear cig lighter? Thought it would be easier to use a hook up that was already in the trunk.

 

i don't have the bose system, so i don't have anything to hook it up to in the rear. the cigarette lighter is the best place if you don't have bose.

 

yep. sounds like all bases are covered then. Another question. Don't most line converters come with a remote turn on that runs off the speaker signal and powers up the amp when the speakers receive a sig? BTW...I just moved from VA xfrd from *** to Great Lakes. I already hate the weather up here.

 

not mine:

 

Wow. Lots of good info. Thanks everyone

 

NP DOMINION. Let us know2 how things progress for you. I agree that there is some really good info here. When I get started on my sub I will post here (not until spring though, too cold in Chicago to even think about this right now -3 with -12 windchill WTF).

 

Dam thats cold. I get started Thur payday. Cant wait

 

Let us know how it goes.

Good luck!

 

Thanks Juice I know WikkedOne has extened his services to me and I thank him for that

 

No problem man.

WikkedOne knows what he's doing so you'll be just fine. Have fun!

 

Good news guys!
I think I got all the goods I need to install my second AMP rewire it to the battery and install my 12" sub.
Let me what if I'm missing something please!




-Gil

 

list what you have.. and what your ideas are.. we'll critique.

 

Hey WikkedOne, I just want to do what you guys have been telling me to do.
So I went out and got a 4G wire with a 100A fuse that I will run from my battery to my Capacitor right?
Then from the Capacitor I will run the 4G wire to my Distribution Block?
Guess thats where the Distribution Blocks come in handy right?
Then I will run 8G wires from the Distribution Blocks to my AMP's.
I will also need to run a ground from the battery to the car, a ground for each AMP to the trunk and a ground from the Capacitor to the trunk.
That about sums it up. Let me know if I'm on the right track or what I'm missing.


Juice said twothings that I dont get.
1. He said I need two Distribution Blocks but the guy at BestBuy told me I dont need them.
So I only got what I posted in the pics see post #44 on this page.
Let me know if I need them? If I do I'll go buy them first thing Friday morn so I can get started on my install Friday night when I get off work.

2. Juice also pointed out in his attachment, Whats that for? whats it do?
Your saying I need to tun my AMP's off? That means they stay on all the time and will drain my battery?

Other questions
Someone said; How do I know if I have this? Do I need this with the AMP's I'm using right now?

Thanks for all the help guys

-Gil

 

Hey WikkedOne, I just want to do what you guys have been telling me to do.
So I went out and got a 4G wire with a 100A fuse that I will run from my battery to my Capacitor right?
Then from the Capacitor I will run the 4G wire to my Distribution Block?
Guess thats where the Distribution Blocks come in handy right?
Then I will run 8G wires from the Distribution Blocks to my AMP's.
I will also need to run a ground from the battery to the car, a ground for each AMP to the trunk and a ground from the Capacitor to the trunk.
That about sums it up. Let me know if I'm on the right track or what I'm missing.


Juice said twothings that I dont get.
1. He said I need two Distribution Blocks but the guy at BestBuy told me I dont need them.
So I only got what I posted in the pics see post #44 on this page.
Let me know if I need them? If I do I'll go buy them first thing Friday morn so I can get started on my install Friday night when I get off work.

2. Juice also pointed out in his attachment, Whats that for? whats it do?
Your saying I need to tun my AMP's off? That means they stay on all the time and will drain my battery?

Other questions
Someone said; How do I know if I have this? Do I need this with the AMP's I'm using right now?

Thanks for all the help guys

-Gil

 

you double posted.. but you have the right idea -

run the new wire from the battery (with the fuse pretty close to the battery) straight back and into the Cap on the + side. Then run the wire out the same side to a dist block and split it into 8 (or some dist blocks let you run 4 in and out as well) to your amps

the ground is where you have a problem. it has to be run through the cap as well

run a wire from your ground point in the trunk to the - side of the cap
then out that same side to another dist block. out that dist block to both of the amps

as for the remote line called "p.con" on your amps - you already have one in place for your first amp - (the skinny blue wire in your second pic) just splice that and also run it to the "p.con" terminal on your other amp

all this wire does is let your amps know when to turn on and off so the wire doesn't need to be as beefy as the power and ground

but other than that it looks like your ready to go!
good luck man

oh and quick tip - you can save A LOT of money by buying from ebay - everything i have except the corksport kit i got on ebay
the only downside is there is no warranty, so you have to be careful.

 

You can EASILY just use the top of the cap as your "distribution block". Use ring terminals on the wires and screw them down together. No need to buy another D-block, and return the one you have now. Done and Done.

And as for having a line output converter with a remote turn on, I believe only active line output converters have this. (Powered units such as the Audiocontrol LC6i) If yours just splices into the speaker wires and has RCAs out, yours does not have this. Regardless, WikkedOne correctly told you to just hop a thin wire from your current amp's turn on to your new amp.

 

I'll try to address these even though Wikkedone basically covered it.

1. Think of a distribution block as a "T" fitting. It allows you to split the power wires. Since you are running 2 amplifiers, using the distribution blocks lets you run 1 wire from the battery and then split it into 2 wires, 1 for each amplifier. Its much better than running 2 wires from the battery for each seperate amplifier.

Distribution blocks will also allow you to combine the ground wires. Combining the ground wires isn't needed, but I feel that it will make the installation cleaner, and easier. This is where having 2 of them comes in handy.

Just take all the ground wires, put them into the distribution block and then you will only need one big ground coming from the distribution block as a chassis ground. It isn't necessary, but it helps to have just 1 grounding point with 1 wire instead of several wires going to the same point. I feel it gives it a cleaner look, and it is easier to hide 1 instead of 3.


2. The remote turn on wire, like Wikkedone said is there so that your amps will know when to turn on and off. Think of it like the on/off switch. When it sees power from the cig lighter or another 12v source that is powered when the key is in the ACC position, it knows that you want to turn on your accesories. So it turns the amplifiers on. When it stops seeing power, it knows that you don't want anything on, and it cuts the power to the amps. Without it, the amps would never turn on.

Another thing is that some people (I mean idiots ) think that it is a good idea to use a wire running from the battery positive cable for the remote turn on since its 12 volts as well. But since you can't turn of a battery this makes the amps see a constant "ON" signal even when the ignition is off. This will kill your battery in a very short time.


Hope this clears up what I was saying.

Short recap:

1. Distibution blocks aren't needed. But they will eliminate the need to run multiple wires to the battery and chassis ground points. They can also be cheaper than running multiple wires from the battery.

2. Remote Turn On is the ON/OFF switch for the amp. Without connecting this you won't get the amp to turn on. This needs to be a wire from a 12v signal in the car that is switched on when the key is in the ACC position, like the cigarette lighter power wire.