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Trying to run a 700w 12" to one of these AMPs need help please!

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Old 01-25-2008 | 08:51 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
You can EASILY just use the top of the cap as your "distribution block". Use ring terminals on the wires and screw them down together. No need to buy another D-block, and return the one you have now. Done and Done.
Very true. I forgot about the capacitor.

Never used a capacitor though, as I never thought is was necessary, but now I have a question.

Can you use the capacitors negative post as the central grounding point and then just run 1 wire from that to the chassis? Or would this mess up the operation of the capacitor seeing the grounds from the amps?
Old 01-25-2008 | 09:02 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Juice
Can you use the capacitors negative post as the central grounding point and then just run 1 wire from that to the chassis? Or would this mess up the operation of the capacitor seeing the grounds from the amps?
You sure can. Like any other electrical device, it doesn't know if you have two amps or 200 amps connected.

Also, keep the cap as close as possible to the amps. The shorter the wire run to the amps the better.
Old 01-25-2008 | 09:13 AM
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Cool, thanks for the info. Good to know if I ever need to run one in the future.
Old 01-25-2008 | 03:54 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys. I'm on my way to buy a Dis-Cap. So I can run my 4G wire with the 100A fuse from my battery to my capacitor then from my capacitor to my AMP's via Dis-Cap.

One last thing. Before I get started. Should I dis-connect the battery so I dont get fryed lol any cautions or warrnings?

Thanks guys
-Gil
Old 01-25-2008 | 04:20 PM
  #55  
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YES, disconnect the battery negative and tuck it so that it can't touch the terminal. This will keep it from forming a full circuit and will keep you safe from electricution. If you are really worried, you can disconnect the neg and positive, but the negative will be fine.

Just take your time and check everything twice before powering the system up. Let us know if there is any trouble.
Old 01-25-2008 | 07:18 PM
  #56  
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Hey Juice, I got a Dis-Cap that has 1 in and 3 out that can hold 4G or 8G wires and I got 6' FT of 8G wire just to be on the safe side
Do you think I'll be ok if I run the 8G from my Dis-Cap to my AMPs for power?
Think that will be ok?
This is how I want to run my set up. Will this work? *see pic that Juice did - one Dis-Cap.*



As for the remote line called "p.con" on your amps - you already have one in place for your first amp - (the "skinny blue wire" in your second pic) just splice that and also run it to the "p.con" terminal on your other amp.
I forgot to buy that "skinny blue wire" What kind of wire is that called? So I can ask for it by name when I buy it.

Thanks amillion guys

Last edited by DOMINION; 01-25-2008 at 07:57 PM.
Old 01-25-2008 | 08:08 PM
  #57  
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Yeah, that diagram looks fine. 6 feet should be plenty to reach the 2 amps. Use the 4 guage from the battery to the capacitor, and then the 8 gauge to the 2 amps.

The blue wire is just a 16 gauge wire, nothing really special about it. If you want to go buy some, it would commonly be called the remote turn on wire. But, if you have some extra speaker wire you can use that, there is no need to buy anything special in regards to this. Just use some of the speaker wire that you would use for wiring the subwoofer to the amp. Go from the remote input on the amp with the wire already installed and put in another wire to the other amp that connects the 2 remote inputs, just like a daisy chain.
Old 01-25-2008 | 10:14 PM
  #58  
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Yeah I have a ton of extra speaker wire that came with my AMP install kit that I got. So I'll just use that. One last question and I will be confident to do the job,
How do I connect the wire to my cigaratte lighter?
Old 01-25-2008 | 10:25 PM
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It should already be tapped but i'm not sure how your wire is already hooked up..

but either way you don't need to wire it to the cig lighter -- just take your new wire and screw it into the P.Con terminal of your old amp with the other wire thats already there and then into your new amp - or you could cut the wire and tap the new wire and amp into it.. the wire just needs to touch both terminals.. you know what I'm saying?
Old 01-25-2008 | 11:52 PM
  #60  
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Ahh I got it. OK I was thinking I had to run the wire from my frist AMP to my second AMP then to my sig lighter lol
Thanks for the help.
Old 01-26-2008 | 12:17 AM
  #61  
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i hope i havent confused you.. it does need to go to the cig lighter, but it should already be there.

it just needs to come from the cig lighter (it already is) and into the p.con of both of your amps.. you can split the wire.. or just kinda "bounce" off the the first one to the first one like i said earlier. '
Old 01-26-2008 | 12:44 AM
  #62  
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No your good man. At first I was confused. I thought it was not there. But it should be there. I get it.

I'll run some Speaker wire from my first AMP to my second AMP with Speaker wire. I get it.

Thanks man!
Old 01-26-2008 | 04:04 AM
  #63  
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if at all possible, maybe try grounding the amps to the same point or as close to the same point as possible. I ran my ground wire from a spot on the bottom floor of the trunk to the the cap and then from there sent two ground wires to the amp, so my amps are grounded in the same location. Differences in grounds can cause engine whine, as I have found out with the Rockford 3Sixty.1. Pain in the *** and annoying as hell.
Old 01-26-2008 | 04:24 AM
  #64  
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Ahh I see. So I'll have to find where they put that first ground wire from the first AMP and put the one for the Cap and the second AMP by that one.
Got it.
Old 01-26-2008 | 08:45 AM
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Run the ground from each amp to the negative terminal on the cap. Then a single 4g ground to chassis. Extremely similar to what you did for power...... but for ground.....
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