As the title suggests, I currently have the Bose system. Unfortunately, I'm getting somewhat bored with it and would like to give it an extra kick. I know that I def. need sub(s) and possibly even speaker upgrades. I am on a budget and would like to keep it around $500, but it is flexible depending on whether the extra money is worth it.

I'm pretty hands-on and I may make my own sub box (I've been reading the DIY) and even wire everything myself, however I do not want to drill any holes that may be noticed upon removal.

Just want some suggestions on where to start, since I don't know anything about sound systems.

Thanks in advance.

 

Here is a good Instructional Video

There is alot of power and informaiton behind that search button

and you will also find alot of informaiton in the "Speaker sizes, harnesses, kits, etc: audio install reference" at the top of the forum

 

First set of questions should be, do you care about how much trunk space it takes up? Second is i guess you are keeping stock Bose HU ? Third have you looked into basslink setup at all ?

 

I would like to keep the majority of the room in the trunk. I was thinking that I don't want to have anything larger than a 4080 box.

I do want to keep the stock HU.

Haven't looked into Basslink yet. Not sure what it is.

 

just checking in...

 

Cute.....I was waiting for that.......I've been around for a while, so I know how the search button works. I've read quite a few things on this already and as much fun as the search button is, the usefull information is sometime far and in between a ton of junk.

I read that stickied post too, but stock info doesn't mean much to me since I don't really know how to interpret it, or what a reasonable upgrade to a specific speaker might be.

Hence my post, but hey thanks for the free bump.

 

I just checked out Basslink and I think it may be a bit more simpler than what I am hoping for. I would like to be able to upgrade at some point so I think having the amp separate from the sub would be beneficial.

 

Get a four channel amplifier. Buy yourself a 10" or 12" subwoofer (I prefer the 10" for trunk space, and I'm not a bass junkie). Get a decent set of component speakers for the front, and the rear speakers can stay as they are.

Use the Bose head unit outputs to go into speaker level inputs on your amplifier (make sure it can take differential inputs!). Wire your amplifier to power the front speakers through the door molex (search for it), and leave the Bose harness sitting pretty -- you don't need to cut it. Make a good mount for your new speakers (6.5" with a 1" tweeter set of a decent make... go audition some stuff).

Get a 4awg or 0/1 awg power kit for your amplifier, buy some cheap 12awg oxygen free speaker cable, and wire it all up. You can mount your amplifier behind the rear seats and not lose a bit of space, and if you can build the subwoofer box, then you're all set.

The rear speakers in this car will be used for 'fill' -- you can unplug them if you feel so inclined, but I like to have the entire car have music... just me You'll find arguments for and against it whichever way.

 

Wouldn't that throw the sound off center?

 

You will have to play with your gain settings to fix that up. Personally, I'd snap the wire for the center speaker but other than that, leave it as-is. The center channel will throw the sound off more than anything else.

 

This sounds so "different" that I'm not even sure if you're being serious. Never before have I heard of anybody cutting out 3 speakers in order to upgrade 2. Even if the 2 are upgraded wouldn't it still make more sense to leave the other 3 on? Maybe I'm just missing something.

 

I'm being serious but simplistic.

The "rear" speakers aren't getting cut out. They are staying in, as-is, powered by the Bose amplifier. They will provide rear 'fill' music. Nothing great quality but if you have rear passengers they will get some music from the rear of the car, and not have to have the volume up from the front for them to hear.

The front door speakers are where the highest quality and also the most accurate representation of your music is going to come from. It makes sense to get a good set of components (6.5" Mid, 1" tweeter) for the front doors. You will take apart the door, take out the old Bose speakers and the attached amplifier. Any connections to the Bose speaker can simply be 'unplugged' instead of being cut. You aren't going to use them for your new speakers, so just tack them back so they don't rattle.

Install the new component speakers into your front doors -- and wire directly back into your 4 channel amplifier. You can go through the molex (as I said, do a search) to accomplish this. The front speakers are mounted and connected, and the old Bose speaker and tweeter have been removed. When you decide to sell the car or whatever, you can put the old Bose equipment right back in, without a headache at all.

The subwoofer is going to live in your trunk. Just wire it right to your amplifier. Then as I said, to connect your amplifier to your car's HU output, you will 'tap 'wire the left front/rear positive/negative, right front/rear positive/negative and go directly into your amplifier's high level inputs -- PROVIDED that you have the speaker level (high level) inputs that accept differential signals. Make sure to inquire about this when you buy -- I just bought a Kicker ZX700.5 that does exactly this. It eliminates the need for a line out converter.

The reason I'd just cut the wires on the center speaker is because it's going to throw your sound off. Your front speakers are going through the amplifier and are pure unaltered sound. The Bose system does some equalizing (you can search and see the outputs) to put music out in a 5 speaker setup. Music is recorded in stereo, and very little music in 5.1 -- so it's doing its own converstion to get that to play properly. If you leave your center channel plugged in, it's going to sound awkward because you'll have some tinny voice coming out of that speaker while your really good components are throwing down the sound brilliantly. It might not bother you, but it would bother me

Anyhoo, that's the jist of it... I've done a LOT of homework and bought my equipment, but I spent closer to $1000 for my setup. My goal was to be removable and hidden as much as possible. The subwoofer is an obvious pain point with the 'hiding' but I can deal with it. I am going to use a lot of quick release clips for my wiring so I can remove everything and return to the Bose easily if I get rid of the car. I'll be posting pictures of my install in about 2 weeks when I start (waiting for the weekend before the 4th of July so I have ample time).

Given your budget of ~$500, I suggested you get a good set of front components, a subwoofer, and a good 4 channel amplifier that has speaker level inputs. I think you can accomplish it in that price -- all you need on top of that is a wiring kit for your amplifier, and speaker wire which you can get from Home Depot or whatever.

 

Ah, that makes sense, thanks for the detailed explanation. I'm sure you can see how to somebody with little knowledge that would seem crazy, but it makes sense now.

Anybody else have a decent "easy" set up?

 

I'll have a detailed 'walk through' installation that I'll create -- you can use it to work up your own installation. That's one thing we are sorely missing as a DIY, and I intend to rectify it as best I can.

 

Yeah, I've looked at a few DIYs on how to make boxes but not how to do the wiring or anything like that.

 

.....but hey, gotta start somewhere.

 

I'll cover the wiring, when I get started on it. Like I said, a full walkthrough you can use to build your system, even if it's slightly different you will get a good idea on what to do.

 

Heh, I got what you were saying in the first post. I was just confirming that the info would be usefull to me.

 

I was just doing some research and a few questions/ideas came up....

1. According to Wikipedia, for everything to work properly the "total power handling capacity of the speakers connected to the amplifier or head unit is greater than or equal to the power of the amplifier or head unit." I'm assuming this is not to blow them out. My question is whether this is referring to continuous or peak power?

2. Seems to me that a capacitor is a must. Right?

3. Don't know much about subs but this one seems the best bang for the buck.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1134701343151
Anyboyd have any experience with this one or the sony Xplod series in general?

4. Would I need a new amp if I am to replace the speakers too or is the factory one enough?

5. The sticky thread at the top of the forum section mentions Ohm amounts. "All speakers are 4ohm impedance" Does this mean that all speakers have to be 4ohms?

 

Capacitor is "if you need it". A easy way to test is set up your equipment and tune it.. then put the subwoofer on full blast. See if your headlights dim. If they do, you need a cap. If they don't, you won't need one.

In my estimation with what you're running... you won't need it. I didn't buy one for my system either and it's putting out more than what you are. I am pretty confident the alternator can handle it.

 

To the other questions -- yes, you need a new amplifier. The stock Bose amplifier sucks for one, and it EQs the sound so the speakers will never sound that great.

The impedence of the speakers depends on your amp. Most car audio equipment runs at 4 ohms. Since you're not using the Bose amplifier, you don't need to worry about this. Just make sure you get 4 ohm speakers, since that's what most amps put out. 2 ohm speakers are going to be pretty hefty on your total load.

Don't buy Sony anything. You can get inexpensive subwoofers lots of places... do some homework on it and make a choice. Figure out your budget and go from there.

 

I've been looking at several subs and I noticed that some of them are 4ohm and some of them are dual 4ohm. What is the difference?

 

A dual 4 ohm sub has a dual voice coil... you can google that for more information.

Essentially though, if you have a DVC (dual voice coil) sub that runs at 4 ohm, the actual load will be 2 ohm depending on your wiring. The Infinity sub that I bought will run at 2 ohms, for example since it's a DVC. Here are some diagrams...

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31984

 

Hercules, I haven't said it yet but, thank you for all your help.

I'm still doing some research on the subs but I actually think I may get the same one as you. It has some excellent reviews and the price seems fair. I am still debating whether to go with a single or double 10s, but for the single I think the perfect amp would be the Kicker 400.1........damn I'm starting to sound like I know what I'm talking about.