Wiring a powered Bazooka tube?
#1
Wiring a powered Bazooka tube?
I've been doing quite a bit of reading about installing a self powered Bazooka tube to my 8's Bose system. However, I am perplexed by contrary views.
If anyone has a Bazooka in their 8 please tell me how you wired it? Did you use a LOC (Low Level) or did you tap the inputs for the rear speakers (High Level)?
I'd also like to know how you set the gains and the crossover.
I'll be getting a BTA10200....
If anyone has a Bazooka in their 8 please tell me how you wired it? Did you use a LOC (Low Level) or did you tap the inputs for the rear speakers (High Level)?
I'd also like to know how you set the gains and the crossover.
I'll be getting a BTA10200....
#2
Since I got no responses and I was reading too much conflicting info, I decided I would just dive into this project.
However, the output of the bass is very low with me tapped into the high levels before the Bose amp. I'm wondering if anything will be different with things tapped after the amp (right at the rear speakers). I've heard that my auto volume will be a bit messed up but I wonder if that's true.
If anyone has any experience with different places to tap the high level inputs I'd appreciate it.
I'd also like to know where you're set the gain on your bazooka - if you have one.
However, the output of the bass is very low with me tapped into the high levels before the Bose amp. I'm wondering if anything will be different with things tapped after the amp (right at the rear speakers). I've heard that my auto volume will be a bit messed up but I wonder if that's true.
If anyone has any experience with different places to tap the high level inputs I'd appreciate it.
I'd also like to know where you're set the gain on your bazooka - if you have one.
#4
I have an Alpine PLT-5, high level inputs, no LOC, tapped before the amp, and I have neough signal. I know that you get a cleane signal on that side, but I'm unsure if you would have a "louder" signal on the output side. Sorry.
#5
Try it without a LOC after the amp. Leave the gain on MIN and the crossover ballparked at about 90-100Hz. Raise the gain slowly until either A) it's loud enough for you or B) it begins to distort and sound sloppy. Back it off a touch.
#6
Since I got no responses and I was reading too much conflicting info, I decided I would just dive into this project.
However, the output of the bass is very low with me tapped into the high levels before the Bose amp. I'm wondering if anything will be different with things tapped after the amp (right at the rear speakers). I've heard that my auto volume will be a bit messed up but I wonder if that's true.
If anyone has any experience with different places to tap the high level inputs I'd appreciate it.
I'd also like to know where you're set the gain on your bazooka - if you have one.
However, the output of the bass is very low with me tapped into the high levels before the Bose amp. I'm wondering if anything will be different with things tapped after the amp (right at the rear speakers). I've heard that my auto volume will be a bit messed up but I wonder if that's true.
If anyone has any experience with different places to tap the high level inputs I'd appreciate it.
I'd also like to know where you're set the gain on your bazooka - if you have one.
The best sounding (not the easiest or cheapest) is to tap into the front channel signal before the bose amp w/ a quality line driver and rock out!!
There will be confilicting opinions on best, cheapest, easiest etc., but there can be no arguing that taking an unequalized pre-amp signal, raising the voltage w/ a quality line driver for proper level matching to the amp will not sound better than the alternative.
#7
Just installed mine last weekend
I just installed my unpowered 10" bazooka tube powered by a USAudio 2100 last weekend. It fills in the low end very nice. Listen to firebirdude and spend some time tuning it to match the factory system and you should be happy (for now ). Start at min. and work your way up.
I tapped into the rear speaker leads between the Bose amp and the speakers. I ran the leads to a 2/4 ch Scosche LOC. The Scosche LOC is actually pretty nice for the price. It offers a selectable Line/Factory amp/Common ground switch for flexability. I chose line out and ran a set of RCA cables to my amp (if you don't have RCAs you would select Factory amp and run speaker wire to the high level inputs on your powered tube). I get absolutely NO noise or hum from this LOC (which I was really suprised by).
BTW.... I tapped into the Pink/Black wire on the Bose amp for remote turn on. It works great! and it's right there.
Also, I ran 8 gauge wire from the batt. and once I got it through the firewall on the passenger side (choose your favorite entry point. I drilled a hole and used a grommet) All I had to do was pop out the kick panel and door sill panel and run the wire through the existing wire channel blocks (simple) and under/behind the rear seat into the trunk (several guys pulled out their seats, but I see NO reason to do this. It took me like 10 minutes with a coat hangar and some tape to thread the wire through).
The only other thing is to make sure you get a good ground. I found a good bolt/nut by the right rear shock mount and stripped the paint off to expose good metal and hooked in there.
All that is left to do now is tune the levels to match the rest of the system. It sounds noticably improved now. I gave the stock Bose system a B- and now I would give it a B+. It's not going to be a full blown custom aftermarket system obviously, but for the money and time invested it's hard to beat the results.
Good luck!
I tapped into the rear speaker leads between the Bose amp and the speakers. I ran the leads to a 2/4 ch Scosche LOC. The Scosche LOC is actually pretty nice for the price. It offers a selectable Line/Factory amp/Common ground switch for flexability. I chose line out and ran a set of RCA cables to my amp (if you don't have RCAs you would select Factory amp and run speaker wire to the high level inputs on your powered tube). I get absolutely NO noise or hum from this LOC (which I was really suprised by).
BTW.... I tapped into the Pink/Black wire on the Bose amp for remote turn on. It works great! and it's right there.
Also, I ran 8 gauge wire from the batt. and once I got it through the firewall on the passenger side (choose your favorite entry point. I drilled a hole and used a grommet) All I had to do was pop out the kick panel and door sill panel and run the wire through the existing wire channel blocks (simple) and under/behind the rear seat into the trunk (several guys pulled out their seats, but I see NO reason to do this. It took me like 10 minutes with a coat hangar and some tape to thread the wire through).
The only other thing is to make sure you get a good ground. I found a good bolt/nut by the right rear shock mount and stripped the paint off to expose good metal and hooked in there.
All that is left to do now is tune the levels to match the rest of the system. It sounds noticably improved now. I gave the stock Bose system a B- and now I would give it a B+. It's not going to be a full blown custom aftermarket system obviously, but for the money and time invested it's hard to beat the results.
Good luck!
Last edited by jonnyspeed; 04-16-2008 at 11:42 AM. Reason: Powered tube info added
#9
#10
#11
Haha... I should have know it was you firebirdude. Hey, while I'm at it, thanks for posting all that info! It came in real handy when I did my install. The first time I fired it up everything worked great! Just had to balance the levels and x-over frequency.
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bazooka, bose, high, humming, inputs, instalation, installation, installing, installtion, level, low, preamp, sound, speakers, tube