13B-RE Cosmo in an RX8
#1
#3
That is about two years old, don't know why it didn't get any press. The guy was actually selling that intake manifold/piping/throttle assembly on the RX-7 forum last year because he tore it down....awesome build imo.
Here is the link:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...=twin+throttle
Chris
Here is the link:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...=twin+throttle
Chris
Last edited by ChrisRX8PR; 03-13-2010 at 01:58 PM.
#6
That is about two years old, don't know why it didn't get any press. The guy was actually selling that intake manifold/piping/throttle assembly on the RX-7 forum last year because he tore it down....awesome build imo.
Here is the link:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...=twin+throttle
Chris
Here is the link:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...=twin+throttle
Chris
#8
sweet Mary! it's a bit over the top for me, but i love it. that intake is a work of art, and i'm a fan of the twin turbo setup. SpeedMachine Performance ... hmmm ... are those the same guys that had built a gray FC several years ago? anyway, i never saw this car before, so thanks for posting it.
#13
[edit] never mind, I had 20B on my mind when replying, not 13B [/edit]
And you have to ask yourself if you want all the luxuries to work, like a/c, dsc and the tach.
And you have to ask yourself if you want all the luxuries to work, like a/c, dsc and the tach.
Last edited by Loki; 04-13-2017 at 05:27 PM.
#14
Your telling its 10k for fab work really 😂😂😂😂 I find that hard to belive man
#15
If you can make everything yourself, maybe less. You have to remember that stuff like this is a fabricator, and they charge $60~$100/hour, and can easily rack up 100 hours of labor + materials.
I will easily have 35~40k in my 20b swap. The fabrication work isn't much different.
If you want to shave some money, go with an REW where you can get subframe kits premade etc. You're still going to spend like $20k+
#16
10k-15k easily...
If you can make everything yourself, maybe less. You have to remember that stuff like this is a fabricator, and they charge $60~$100/hour, and can easily rack up 100 hours of labor + materials.
I will easily have 35~40k in my 20b swap. The fabrication work isn't much different.
If you want to shave some money, go with an REW where you can get subframe kits premade etc. You're still going to spend like $20k+
If you can make everything yourself, maybe less. You have to remember that stuff like this is a fabricator, and they charge $60~$100/hour, and can easily rack up 100 hours of labor + materials.
I will easily have 35~40k in my 20b swap. The fabrication work isn't much different.
If you want to shave some money, go with an REW where you can get subframe kits premade etc. You're still going to spend like $20k+
#17
Easy... anything related to putting in a stock engine... throw it away and start over. If you have to ask for a detailed list, then you either have done zero research, or have never wrenched on your car to begin with. Nothing is "plug and play" with an engine swap. You will always have necessary custom parts needed to finish the job correctly.
#18
A few guys on here have done REW swaps, if you find their threads and ask nicely, they may tell you the details.
#19
Easy... anything related to putting in a stock engine... throw it away and start over. If you have to ask for a detailed list, then you either have done zero research, or have never wrenched on your car to begin with. Nothing is "plug and play" with an engine swap. You will always have necessary custom parts needed to finish the job correctly.
#20
I will thanks for the help I'm still looking around
#21
I'll help you out a little...
-Custom subframe. Either modified or add on.
-Depending on subframe custom motor mounts
-Custom exhaust manifold. Stock twins do not clear the frame rail unless you repisition the whole drive train forward ie, more custom stuff
-All the usual turbo stuff
-Custom intake parts
-Correct way to handle the LIM is to get a short one or custom fab. For an re its custom, or you can hammer in the fire wall... Not the best option.
-Custom throttle control parts. Either an adapter to use the 8 dbw, or new peddle and setup for cable
-Possibly custom oil pan
-A lot of other little **** that you'll run into while you're going. Don't underestimate this part. This is where budgets get serially blown.
If you can do all that on your own, then maybe you can get your car running for 10k. In a perfect world your block is going to run you almost 5k by itself if you have it rebuilt properly, and that's probably a little on the cheap. 2k for the motor and 3k for a full rebuild. I think you'd be realistically looking at closer to 6-7k depending on the used housing condition.
The rx8 is a very expensive platform to make power with. There's no way around that unless you can do almost everything yourself.
#22
No other engine is going to go into the 8 without custom work. There are some kits for and rew but they still don't include everything you need for a turn key car. Any turbo motor is going to take a lot of fab work. You'll spend a min of 15k on an rew swap, and at least 20k on an re. There's nothing off the shelf to help swap an re like an rew. You could come out less than that of you can do all the fab work yourself, but most people don't have that skill.
I'll help you out a little...
-Custom subframe. Either modified or add on.
-Depending on subframe custom motor mounts
-Custom exhaust manifold. Stock twins do not clear the frame rail unless you repisition the whole drive train forward ie, more custom stuff
-All the usual turbo stuff
-Custom intake parts
-Correct way to handle the LIM is to get a short one or custom fab. For an re its custom, or you can hammer in the fire wall... Not the best option.
-Custom throttle control parts. Either an adapter to use the 8 dbw, or new peddle and setup for cable
-Possibly custom oil pan
-A lot of other little **** that you'll run into while you're going. Don't underestimate this part. This is where budgets get serially blown.
If you can do all that on your own, then maybe you can get your car running for 10k. In a perfect world your block is going to run you almost 5k by itself if you have it rebuilt properly, and that's probably a little on the cheap. 2k for the motor and 3k for a full rebuild. I think you'd be realistically looking at closer to 6-7k depending on the used housing condition.
The rx8 is a very expensive platform to make power with. There's no way around that unless you can do almost everything yourself.
I'll help you out a little...
-Custom subframe. Either modified or add on.
-Depending on subframe custom motor mounts
-Custom exhaust manifold. Stock twins do not clear the frame rail unless you repisition the whole drive train forward ie, more custom stuff
-All the usual turbo stuff
-Custom intake parts
-Correct way to handle the LIM is to get a short one or custom fab. For an re its custom, or you can hammer in the fire wall... Not the best option.
-Custom throttle control parts. Either an adapter to use the 8 dbw, or new peddle and setup for cable
-Possibly custom oil pan
-A lot of other little **** that you'll run into while you're going. Don't underestimate this part. This is where budgets get serially blown.
If you can do all that on your own, then maybe you can get your car running for 10k. In a perfect world your block is going to run you almost 5k by itself if you have it rebuilt properly, and that's probably a little on the cheap. 2k for the motor and 3k for a full rebuild. I think you'd be realistically looking at closer to 6-7k depending on the used housing condition.
The rx8 is a very expensive platform to make power with. There's no way around that unless you can do almost everything yourself.
#23
They're not easy to find right now. I bought one. We found out it was bad, and I got a refund. We thought about an re, and I said forget it and just bought a 20b... rew is the best "cheap" idea.
#24
How did I miss this thread? Let's assume you have the raw materials to make everything you'll need - This includes random assortments of bushings, access to several different tuning suites and hardware, a dyno to actually get the car dialed in, a warehouse full of random odds and ends you may need including metal stock that you can manipulate for your own desires easily or for free. 1. I'm damnably impressed, and I'd like to know what market you made your money in and how I can get into it. 2. I envy you and wish I had that much time to play with, along with the ability to literally do **** all except for tinker in my spare time.
Sarcasm aside - reddozen has a point about the engine alone - Try finding a 13B RE or REW in good shape that doesn't need a major rebuild. If you can, it's gonna be costly, and if you're going to be putting it into a vehicle you may as well rebuild it anyway for reliability - Get it built, put it on an engine dyno and break it in and make sure it works if you're going to invest this much time and money into it. I've thought about going FI and in the end I decided it'd be cheaper just to buy a 951 as it'll be a decently handling car with a more conventional engine with boost, and it'll still need a 7k rebuild too.
What exactly are you looking to get out of swapping an engine in this car? If you aren't really, really goddamn careful you'll lose the excellent balance from factory - which nullifies the handling which is the major selling point of these cars. Really, I know my car is slow as dirt in a straight line but in a corner it's tons of fun. If you are doing an engine swap just to do an engine swap because you've got the time and money - By all means, it's not my check book and I'll be interested to see where this goes. There's going to be very, very verrrry little that's "plug and play" if anything. You might get lucky and have one or two connectors match, but beyond that not much else is gonna work. There's already been a list of things you'll need to make it work at a minimum. If you have the money for the engine and a shop and warehouse full of parts, tools, and tuning equipment (standalone EMU, a way to intergrate it...) I'll be damnably impressed and will eat an old boot. I'd love to see a running tally of costs along the way, including time in a shop working on it because I'm just a sadist like that.
Sarcasm aside - reddozen has a point about the engine alone - Try finding a 13B RE or REW in good shape that doesn't need a major rebuild. If you can, it's gonna be costly, and if you're going to be putting it into a vehicle you may as well rebuild it anyway for reliability - Get it built, put it on an engine dyno and break it in and make sure it works if you're going to invest this much time and money into it. I've thought about going FI and in the end I decided it'd be cheaper just to buy a 951 as it'll be a decently handling car with a more conventional engine with boost, and it'll still need a 7k rebuild too.
What exactly are you looking to get out of swapping an engine in this car? If you aren't really, really goddamn careful you'll lose the excellent balance from factory - which nullifies the handling which is the major selling point of these cars. Really, I know my car is slow as dirt in a straight line but in a corner it's tons of fun. If you are doing an engine swap just to do an engine swap because you've got the time and money - By all means, it's not my check book and I'll be interested to see where this goes. There's going to be very, very verrrry little that's "plug and play" if anything. You might get lucky and have one or two connectors match, but beyond that not much else is gonna work. There's already been a list of things you'll need to make it work at a minimum. If you have the money for the engine and a shop and warehouse full of parts, tools, and tuning equipment (standalone EMU, a way to intergrate it...) I'll be damnably impressed and will eat an old boot. I'd love to see a running tally of costs along the way, including time in a shop working on it because I'm just a sadist like that.
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