where you located stick

 

Ok, Cam said we can sell you a top of the line belt drive dry sump pump for $700. He asked if you could send him some pictures?? info@pettitracing.com

 

The more I look at the lack of room that you have id say tuck it in a little deeper in the tunnel and if you go dry sump you have all of that room to go lower without an oilpan. Plus doing it like that gives you the sweetest weight distruibution.

 

Moon, I looked into doing dry sump, but it's little too complicated than what I'd like at this time. Besides, it looks like I may have to sacrifice the AC to place the sump tank, pump, etc. As for pics, I'd love to send you more, but Cam did look at bunch of them before. At the time, Cam told me he'd rather move the turbo to the side of the engine for long-term reliability. Hopefully though, with turbo blankets, heatwraps, and a vented hood, turbo heat will be non-issue.

c, I'm in PA.

I received M&W boxes, coils, gaskets, and water stuff. I'll take some photos tomorrow and post them up here. At last, it's the weekend

 

im going to be working on a way to get the eps to work this weekend on my car so if i come up with anything useful i will let you know. also i dont know if you have sourced out a drive shaft yet but driveshaftshop.com told me 350 and it would be done in 3 days, ask for frank.

 

I can understand that. I scoped out some mounting points for you, your gona need them. There is a plate that goes between the subframe and the unibody, it didnt look like it was installed in your pics but id say those 4 points would be a good point to bolt to as well as the 4 for your motor mounts. Theres a brace that attaches from your tranny to the rear, you should pull that out and see if you can mill out the holes further back as another point of intrest to pay attention to. How thick is your oilpan??? Can you post a few pics of it??

 

weird thing that scott told me was he said I only should use one engine mount on the driver's side and no engine mount on the passenger side. it seemed like a very dumb idea, but i thought i'd ask here before i have someone fab the missing mount for me. scott said something about windshield breaking if i have solid mounts on both sides.

that torque brace that mounts to the front of the engine & to the chassis is made of aluminum and is not very thick. initially scott told me that's all the car needs to hold the engine. he can be right; it just didn't make much sense to me. i just wanted to double check here.

i'll take some pics tomorrow & post.

 

I just want to say good luck in what your doing.I hope she gets running soon and the way you want it.

 

 

I didn't read into what the current engine situation is yet, but what about that Atkins Rotary guy? Can't they hook you up with a perfectly functioning 20b? I'm not sure, but maybe check out their site.

 

Why is that I did a whole engine swap, a T56 swap in my CABINET shop and Mazsport could not have this thing running.. Because from what I see it was far from beeing right. I can usderstand if they had probems with the electric system or timming or something like that, but the swap.... come on....

 

Good luck Stick and let me or Josh know if there is anything we can help you with..

Dan

 

Crack your windshield. Did he say make sure you have good muffler bearings or add some propwash to your gastank also. I didnt even crack my windshield in a 35-40 MPH front collision, I now thats a diffrent stress factor but it showes how strong the stock settup is. Fact is fact, you HAVE to secure that motor as strong as you can or its gona twist, guess he was setting you up for failure, 2 mounting points and mount it on 1 side, you gotta be kidding me. Your gona be dealing with alomost 3 or 4 more times the TQ then stock. That brace setup from the tranny to the rear is going to need extra reinforcment also. On the GT car we ran a stock rear subframe and suspension parts from the 8 so thats plenty strong enough. Your going to have to fab up a new brace that your missing, good time to incorperate it into a mounting spot.

 

Also keep in mind that your gona need all you electrical stuff like your stock ECU so you might want to have your wirring harnes in hand to settup a stand alone system for the little things. I say this because you need it for your keyless entry, steering and stuff like that. It might even be possible to hook up your tac, gastank level indicator, milage and stuff like that. Maybe fool the system into thinking everything is stock and you might not even have a check engine light if you can figure that all out.

 

All your gauges and the tach can work and thats a fact.. Mine do. The only thing I have on still is the CEL and its because I dont really care.

 

Nice, its been done, he can point you in the rite direction with that.

 

thanks moon. what really scares me is, using engine mount only on one side is what scott had told me for a while now.

i also remember scott telling me that using only ONE engine mount with torque brace is the normal setup for most drag cars.

whether true or not, thanks for saving my life.

 

btw, what's good aluminum alloy type and thickness to make a fuel sump tank and other custom brackets, etc? some recommendation on reliable welder type/model (if possible) that i can use to weld those aluminum plates and possibly some stainless stuff would also be extremely helpful.

my garage was in 40*F all day today, so i need to get a shop heater before i start to do anything... so no pics this weekend... i'll be mostly shopping it seems.

 

You need a TIG to weld the alum and the SS ideally. It is not likely worth buying one unless you are stupidly wealthy and plan to use it a lot. You should be able to rent one for a few months relatively cheap.

Have you welded with one before? If not you might want to find a buddy that can......practice is needed to get nice results

 

Why not use the stock tank??

 

i've attached my fuel system drawing. i'll be using the stock tank. i'm just worried that the stock fuel pump won't flow enough to the sump tank where two bosch 044's will sit. i plan on locating the sump tank in lieu of the oem fuel evap box which i'm assuming will be useless with my 20b setup. from the look of it this morning, i think i can squeeze about 1-2gal capacity sump tank in there. it'll have some baffles to keep the fuel near the pumps.

 

That makes no sense....how is the motor mounted currently. Pics?

 

Lincoln makes a nice wire feed that can do aluminum but it costs $1900. Id say lay out what you fab and get someone else to tig it up for ya but in my opinion your making more work for yourself not keeping the stock tank though. Ive never built a gas tank yet but ill be doing one soon myself for my trike project im working on.

 

it didn't make much sense to me either. no pics yet--waiting on the shop heater before i can start. mostly still shopping and learning. it's been hard because mazsport scott has been intentionally misleading me on the phone even before my threads were up. i'm basically relearning everything and in process of returning some stuff i never needed.

 

moon, i will be using the stock tank. what i need to make is a sump tank that'll replace the evap tank.

i couldnt' think of any simpler designs to place a pump in the stock tank & be able to level both sides of the tank.