233 rwhp dyno sheet
#55
what grandam series you talking about? ST or GT? because the GT's use 20Bs, and i know the ST are stock for the sportscar challenge specs etc...
would be nice to know, as i have things in the works for the end of 2012/2013. but im sure i'll figure out things along the way, but nice numbers for n/a renesis.
would be nice to know, as i have things in the works for the end of 2012/2013. but im sure i'll figure out things along the way, but nice numbers for n/a renesis.
#57
not bad at all for N/A. I wonder what a BDC port and these guys knowledge and research could yield. I've been out of state and on the road on business. When I get downtown I would like to experiment with something.......
#58
My highest ever dyno was 189 i believe. My lowest was in the low 170 area.
I don't save any of my dyno sheets, Jedi might have a few of them logged somewhere. The only reason my car even sees a dyno at least once a year is the socal, and ever sporadic norcal, dyno days.
Now when I finally pull the trigger on FI, you'll see me keeping a detailed history of all dyno runs. Until I've done more then the few bolts on's I currently have, there isnt much point to keep them.
When I see someone like Eric, who has the passion and means to massage every last pony out of the 13b it does make me smile. Passion for the rotary is what drove all of us tot his website and to see someone taking a NA engine to the Nth degree should make all of us a little more proud to be driving around in such a great car.
/end soap box
#59
My highest ever dyno was 189 i believe. My lowest was in the low 170 area.
I don't save any of my dyno sheets, Jedi might have a few of them logged somewhere. The only reason my car even sees a dyno at least once a year is the socal, and ever sporadic norcal, dyno days.
Now when I finally pull the trigger on FI, you'll see me keeping a detailed history of all dyno runs. Until I've done more then the few bolts on's I currently have, there isnt much point to keep them.
When I see someone like Eric, who has the passion and means to massage every last pony out of the 13b it does make me smile. Passion for the rotary is what drove all of us tot his website and to see someone taking a NA engine to the Nth degree should make all of us a little more proud to be driving around in such a great car.
/end soap box
I don't save any of my dyno sheets, Jedi might have a few of them logged somewhere. The only reason my car even sees a dyno at least once a year is the socal, and ever sporadic norcal, dyno days.
Now when I finally pull the trigger on FI, you'll see me keeping a detailed history of all dyno runs. Until I've done more then the few bolts on's I currently have, there isnt much point to keep them.
When I see someone like Eric, who has the passion and means to massage every last pony out of the 13b it does make me smile. Passion for the rotary is what drove all of us tot his website and to see someone taking a NA engine to the Nth degree should make all of us a little more proud to be driving around in such a great car.
/end soap box
#60
The motor was built by Re Ameniya with some special teriaki in there. By the way he has a port and tune service listed claiming 290 whp on their global site with a "Side port." Is that a peripheral port or like a street port?
#61
When you go FI will you just bolt on the kit and tune it or build a motor first? Based on my experience and specificaly my failures, if I had to do it over again, I would build a spare motor before I bolt the kit on. Start slow and when it blows, swap the motor and make changes based on what I learn.
#64
You have spelled it out in other post like this one. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71
Baiscly you build a good motor, with new or mostly new parts, balancing the rotating assmebly and the fuel injectors, a few oil and coolant flow tricks to improve longevity, Use a high flow intake, long tube header, tune it for the spec 98 race fuel (Probably the .93 Lambda aka 13.5 AFR). Break the motor in and then make your dyno pulls. Run it in 5th gear to make the most power.
Baiscly you build a good motor, with new or mostly new parts, balancing the rotating assmebly and the fuel injectors, a few oil and coolant flow tricks to improve longevity, Use a high flow intake, long tube header, tune it for the spec 98 race fuel (Probably the .93 Lambda aka 13.5 AFR). Break the motor in and then make your dyno pulls. Run it in 5th gear to make the most power.
#65
#66
Wow---now we are talking about serious power gains. We might be building a PPort Renesis in the future using the Renesis intake but for now----this is not a Pport motor. It runs the stock 3 exhaust ports with the rectangle iconel sleeves in their place 100% untampered.
#67
Are we giving up on this one already? Guys, guys. This is a great opportunity to learn.
-This is NOT a ported engine
-It is not a supercharged, turbocharged, NOS or leafblower with WD40 at the intake.
-Uses the stock black plastic upper and cast aluminum lower intake (also stock/not ported or other).
-It uses a header
-It runs on trick engine management/not a piggy back or stock ecu
-Yes it runs on race gas (which basically means its a little higher octane, more consistant and is of higher quality).
-This was done on a dynojet pull
-Pulls were STD corrected
Still too many assumptions out there.
Eric
-This is NOT a ported engine
-It is not a supercharged, turbocharged, NOS or leafblower with WD40 at the intake.
-Uses the stock black plastic upper and cast aluminum lower intake (also stock/not ported or other).
-It uses a header
-It runs on trick engine management/not a piggy back or stock ecu
-Yes it runs on race gas (which basically means its a little higher octane, more consistant and is of higher quality).
-This was done on a dynojet pull
-Pulls were STD corrected
Still too many assumptions out there.
Eric
#71
Are we giving up on this one already? Guys, guys. This is a great opportunity to learn.
-This is NOT a ported engine
-It is not a supercharged, turbocharged, NOS or leafblower with WD40 at the intake.
-Uses the stock black plastic upper and cast aluminum lower intake (also stock/not ported or other).
-It uses a header
-It runs on trick engine management/not a piggy back or stock ecu
-Yes it runs on race gas (which basically means its a little higher octane, more consistant and is of higher quality).
-This was done on a dynojet pull
-Pulls were STD corrected
Still too many assumptions out there.
Eric
-This is NOT a ported engine
-It is not a supercharged, turbocharged, NOS or leafblower with WD40 at the intake.
-Uses the stock black plastic upper and cast aluminum lower intake (also stock/not ported or other).
-It uses a header
-It runs on trick engine management/not a piggy back or stock ecu
-Yes it runs on race gas (which basically means its a little higher octane, more consistant and is of higher quality).
-This was done on a dynojet pull
-Pulls were STD corrected
Still too many assumptions out there.
Eric
You said stock motor, but does that mean stock apex seals, side seals, side seal springs? You have said side seal modifications dont make power but you also said double side seal springs did make power but didnt last long.
Fuel has been addressed, race fuel and tunned for it. Better injectors to improve fuel atomization?
Ignition, coils dont make power. The stock coils lose power, aftermarket ignition just gets it back.
Air temp and density improve power but You said STD corrected, so can we rule out Air temp and humidity?
Intake. Modified mazdaspeed is what you use and its what makes power. Stock UIM and LIM.
Exhaust has been addressed.
Drive train differences? Super light clutch and flywheel, smaller tires and wheels, Sequental gear box?
I dont think you can run water/meth injection and even if you could I dont think it can make more power with a NA renesis even if tuned for it.
Running out of thoughts here.
Last edited by Highway8; 06-18-2011 at 11:44 AM.
#72
#73
Well, he did suggest that he was going to apply the Socratic method to the learning experience.
Though, so far, those that have attempted to engage in this method with him here have simply been rebuked.
I will mention that the dyno I posted above had no "tricks". It was just a well-built, well-tuned engine.
Had we been willing to run it at the kind of lambdas that Eric does, we would have made 5 to 7 more peak horses, putting the entire dyno in-line with what he posted.
But, the chief wanted the motors to continue to run well for a longer period of time than what Eric finds acceptable.
Though, so far, those that have attempted to engage in this method with him here have simply been rebuked.
I will mention that the dyno I posted above had no "tricks". It was just a well-built, well-tuned engine.
Had we been willing to run it at the kind of lambdas that Eric does, we would have made 5 to 7 more peak horses, putting the entire dyno in-line with what he posted.
But, the chief wanted the motors to continue to run well for a longer period of time than what Eric finds acceptable.
#74
Just went through the entire thread to try and collect all the factual data.
Three pages and this is all I got .... most of it is a bunch of "ohhh Eric marry me .. I want your babies, your my hero oooooooOOOooooo" lol
Really Eric, I do appreciate your knowledge, and the sharing of knowledge but reading thru this thread made me throw up a little.
So ... I'm going with this ... from Post #3 or something by Highway8 ... plus a long tube header .... and win
edit: Just re-read that post .... using headers already ... mmmmm gotta think a bit more
edit II: It couldn't be the weight of the oil you were using???????????? What were you using for fluids? Engine, Trans, Diff?
In Eric's own words. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71
And just for ****'s and giggles I'll ask if you used a Cyro kit? (hahha ya ok no right).
Three pages and this is all I got .... most of it is a bunch of "ohhh Eric marry me .. I want your babies, your my hero oooooooOOOooooo" lol
Really Eric, I do appreciate your knowledge, and the sharing of knowledge but reading thru this thread made me throw up a little.
So ... I'm going with this ... from Post #3 or something by Highway8 ... plus a long tube header .... and win
edit: Just re-read that post .... using headers already ... mmmmm gotta think a bit more
edit II: It couldn't be the weight of the oil you were using???????????? What were you using for fluids? Engine, Trans, Diff?
In Eric's own words. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71
And just for ****'s and giggles I'll ask if you used a Cyro kit? (hahha ya ok no right).
He is running in the Pirelli Scca Pro Racing World Challenge http://world-challenge.com/ Touring Car class.
I think this is all accurate, I am probably missing something and wrong about something but I am sure I am close.
I believe he has to run the stock or mazdaspeed intake, unknown on coils ( I bet they are not stock), exhaust is open (long tube custom header and exhaust) cant touch the intake manifold, no porting or special internal work. Quality motor rebuild with new or mostly new parts, balanced rotating assembly, lightweight clutch and flywheel. Runs race gas, a leaner AFR and more aggressive ignition timing then we can run on street gas.
In Eric's own words. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71
I think this is all accurate, I am probably missing something and wrong about something but I am sure I am close.
I believe he has to run the stock or mazdaspeed intake, unknown on coils ( I bet they are not stock), exhaust is open (long tube custom header and exhaust) cant touch the intake manifold, no porting or special internal work. Quality motor rebuild with new or mostly new parts, balanced rotating assembly, lightweight clutch and flywheel. Runs race gas, a leaner AFR and more aggressive ignition timing then we can run on street gas.
In Eric's own words. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71
At the time this engine was run (if it is the engine that I believe it is), the coil legality issue hadn't been addressed yet.
Engine management had to be stock or Bosch per the rules, btw, so you can imagine the choice that the lower-tier Rolex teams went with.
230 HP was not totally uncommon, though most were in the mid-220 range.
Engine management had to be stock or Bosch per the rules, btw, so you can imagine the choice that the lower-tier Rolex teams went with.
230 HP was not totally uncommon, though most were in the mid-220 range.
You have spelled it out in other post like this one. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71
Baiscly you build a good motor, with new or mostly new parts, balancing the rotating assmebly and the fuel injectors, a few oil and coolant flow tricks to improve longevity, Use a high flow intake, long tube header, tune it for the spec 98 race fuel (Probably the .93 Lambda aka 13.5 AFR). Break the motor in and then make your dyno pulls. Run it in 5th gear to make the most power.
Baiscly you build a good motor, with new or mostly new parts, balancing the rotating assmebly and the fuel injectors, a few oil and coolant flow tricks to improve longevity, Use a high flow intake, long tube header, tune it for the spec 98 race fuel (Probably the .93 Lambda aka 13.5 AFR). Break the motor in and then make your dyno pulls. Run it in 5th gear to make the most power.
Wow---now we are talking about serious power gains. We might be building a PPort Renesis in the future using the Renesis intake but for now----this is not a Pport motor. It runs the stock 3 exhaust ports with the rectangle iconel sleeves in their place 100% untampered.
Are we giving up on this one already? Guys, guys. This is a great opportunity to learn.
-This is NOT a ported engine
-It is not a supercharged, turbocharged, NOS or leafblower with WD40 at the intake.
-Uses the stock black plastic upper and cast aluminum lower intake (also stock/not ported or other).
-It uses a header
-It runs on trick engine management/not a piggy back or stock ecu
-Yes it runs on race gas (which basically means its a little higher octane, more consistant and is of higher quality).
-This was done on a dynojet pull
-Pulls were STD corrected
Still too many assumptions out there.
Eric
-This is NOT a ported engine
-It is not a supercharged, turbocharged, NOS or leafblower with WD40 at the intake.
-Uses the stock black plastic upper and cast aluminum lower intake (also stock/not ported or other).
-It uses a header
-It runs on trick engine management/not a piggy back or stock ecu
-Yes it runs on race gas (which basically means its a little higher octane, more consistant and is of higher quality).
-This was done on a dynojet pull
-Pulls were STD corrected
Still too many assumptions out there.
Eric
Last edited by wcs; 06-18-2011 at 01:06 PM.
#75