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233 rwhp dyno sheet

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Old 06-17-2011 | 08:39 AM
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go to the 09 trans and the gear ratio will change, making it much more likely that you will be able to use 5th gear.

Socartes method? I like that.
Old 06-17-2011 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Nice. More reason not to rev much past 8000RPM.
Guess that means it's time to change your username.
Old 06-17-2011 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BDC
Guess that means it's time to change your username.

Crap.
Old 06-17-2011 | 01:23 PM
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Ha!
Old 06-17-2011 | 02:48 PM
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what grandam series you talking about? ST or GT? because the GT's use 20Bs, and i know the ST are stock for the sportscar challenge specs etc...

would be nice to know, as i have things in the works for the end of 2012/2013. but im sure i'll figure out things along the way, but nice numbers for n/a renesis.
Old 06-17-2011 | 02:49 PM
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ST clearly....

If that was his dyno sheet for a 20B, he has bigger issues between his ears.
Old 06-17-2011 | 03:18 PM
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not bad at all for N/A. I wonder what a BDC port and these guys knowledge and research could yield. I've been out of state and on the road on business. When I get downtown I would like to experiment with something.......
Old 06-17-2011 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Highway8
Have you topped 190 yet?

My highest ever dyno was 189 i believe. My lowest was in the low 170 area.
I don't save any of my dyno sheets, Jedi might have a few of them logged somewhere. The only reason my car even sees a dyno at least once a year is the socal, and ever sporadic norcal, dyno days.

Now when I finally pull the trigger on FI, you'll see me keeping a detailed history of all dyno runs. Until I've done more then the few bolts on's I currently have, there isnt much point to keep them.

When I see someone like Eric, who has the passion and means to massage every last pony out of the 13b it does make me smile. Passion for the rotary is what drove all of us tot his website and to see someone taking a NA engine to the Nth degree should make all of us a little more proud to be driving around in such a great car.

/end soap box
Old 06-17-2011 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by laythor
My highest ever dyno was 189 i believe. My lowest was in the low 170 area.
I don't save any of my dyno sheets, Jedi might have a few of them logged somewhere. The only reason my car even sees a dyno at least once a year is the socal, and ever sporadic norcal, dyno days.

Now when I finally pull the trigger on FI, you'll see me keeping a detailed history of all dyno runs. Until I've done more then the few bolts on's I currently have, there isnt much point to keep them.

When I see someone like Eric, who has the passion and means to massage every last pony out of the 13b it does make me smile. Passion for the rotary is what drove all of us tot his website and to see someone taking a NA engine to the Nth degree should make all of us a little more proud to be driving around in such a great car.

/end soap box
When you go FI will you just bolt on the kit and tune it or build a motor first? Based on my experience and specificaly my failures, if I had to do it over again, I would build a spare motor before I bolt the kit on. Start slow and when it blows, swap the motor and make changes based on what I learn.
Old 06-17-2011 | 11:19 PM
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The motor was built by Re Ameniya with some special teriaki in there. By the way he has a port and tune service listed claiming 290 whp on their global site with a "Side port." Is that a peripheral port or like a street port?
Old 06-18-2011 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Highway8
When you go FI will you just bolt on the kit and tune it or build a motor first? Based on my experience and specificaly my failures, if I had to do it over again, I would build a spare motor before I bolt the kit on. Start slow and when it blows, swap the motor and make changes based on what I learn.
My plan at the current moment is to remove the current engine and FI a rebuilt one. I'll be doing the standard upgrades to the core to improve the robustness of the engine. There's nothing inherently wrong with boosting a stock engine with miles on it, I would just rather build on a solid foundation and a motor straight from the factory isn't it.
Old 06-18-2011 | 02:35 AM
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Wow, what a crazy amount of HP... There may still be hope for this Renesis
Old 06-18-2011 | 07:02 AM
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i have been saying it! the renesis is a great engine.

Originally Posted by WTBRotary!
Wow, what a crazy amount of HP... There may still be hope for this Renesis
Old 06-18-2011 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Highway8
You have spelled it out in other post like this one. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71

Baiscly you build a good motor, with new or mostly new parts, balancing the rotating assmebly and the fuel injectors, a few oil and coolant flow tricks to improve longevity, Use a high flow intake, long tube header, tune it for the spec 98 race fuel (Probably the .93 Lambda aka 13.5 AFR). Break the motor in and then make your dyno pulls. Run it in 5th gear to make the most power.
Yes but you'll never see numbers like this.
Old 06-18-2011 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Reaver
So non-turbo and non-supercharged but you don't say anything about nos. Did you use nos?

Edit: I guess the guy up a few posts got it nailed by finding one of your previous posts. twas fun while it lasted
Good guess. No NOS or equivalent.
Old 06-18-2011 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tampa1stRotor
The motor was built by Re Ameniya with some special teriaki in there. By the way he has a port and tune service listed claiming 290 whp on their global site with a "Side port." Is that a peripheral port or like a street port?
Wow---now we are talking about serious power gains. We might be building a PPort Renesis in the future using the Renesis intake but for now----this is not a Pport motor. It runs the stock 3 exhaust ports with the rectangle iconel sleeves in their place 100% untampered.
Old 06-18-2011 | 09:06 AM
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Are we giving up on this one already? Guys, guys. This is a great opportunity to learn.

-This is NOT a ported engine
-It is not a supercharged, turbocharged, NOS or leafblower with WD40 at the intake.
-Uses the stock black plastic upper and cast aluminum lower intake (also stock/not ported or other).
-It uses a header
-It runs on trick engine management/not a piggy back or stock ecu
-Yes it runs on race gas (which basically means its a little higher octane, more consistant and is of higher quality).
-This was done on a dynojet pull
-Pulls were STD corrected

Still too many assumptions out there.

Eric
Old 06-18-2011 | 09:19 AM
  #68  
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I havn't given up, I just have ZERO to contribute but want to learn.
Old 06-18-2011 | 11:10 AM
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Would a higher quality rear end gear oil, properly warmed up for the dyno run, contribute to the best optimal numbers?
Old 06-18-2011 | 11:17 AM
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My knowledge level is too low to contribute effectively to the reasons
Old 06-18-2011 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by EricMeyer
Are we giving up on this one already? Guys, guys. This is a great opportunity to learn.

-This is NOT a ported engine
-It is not a supercharged, turbocharged, NOS or leafblower with WD40 at the intake.
-Uses the stock black plastic upper and cast aluminum lower intake (also stock/not ported or other).
-It uses a header
-It runs on trick engine management/not a piggy back or stock ecu
-Yes it runs on race gas (which basically means its a little higher octane, more consistant and is of higher quality).
-This was done on a dynojet pull
-Pulls were STD corrected

Still too many assumptions out there.

Eric
6 factors that I know of will effect RWHP. AIR, Fuel, Compression, Igntion of compressed air/fuel, Exhaust and drivetrain or putting the power down.

You said stock motor, but does that mean stock apex seals, side seals, side seal springs? You have said side seal modifications dont make power but you also said double side seal springs did make power but didnt last long.

Fuel has been addressed, race fuel and tunned for it. Better injectors to improve fuel atomization?

Ignition, coils dont make power. The stock coils lose power, aftermarket ignition just gets it back.

Air temp and density improve power but You said STD corrected, so can we rule out Air temp and humidity?

Intake. Modified mazdaspeed is what you use and its what makes power. Stock UIM and LIM.

Exhaust has been addressed.

Drive train differences? Super light clutch and flywheel, smaller tires and wheels, Sequental gear box?

I dont think you can run water/meth injection and even if you could I dont think it can make more power with a NA renesis even if tuned for it.

Running out of thoughts here.

Last edited by Highway8; 06-18-2011 at 11:44 AM.
Old 06-18-2011 | 12:06 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by EricMeyer
Are we giving up on this one already? Guys, guys. This is a great opportunity to learn.

Eric
? Learning ?
I see guessing with no guidance.

this thread is wearing thin .....
Old 06-18-2011 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by wcs
? Learning ?
I see guessing with no guidance.
Well, he did suggest that he was going to apply the Socratic method to the learning experience.
Though, so far, those that have attempted to engage in this method with him here have simply been rebuked.

I will mention that the dyno I posted above had no "tricks". It was just a well-built, well-tuned engine.

Had we been willing to run it at the kind of lambdas that Eric does, we would have made 5 to 7 more peak horses, putting the entire dyno in-line with what he posted.
But, the chief wanted the motors to continue to run well for a longer period of time than what Eric finds acceptable.
Old 06-18-2011 | 12:45 PM
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Just went through the entire thread to try and collect all the factual data.
Three pages and this is all I got .... most of it is a bunch of "ohhh Eric marry me .. I want your babies, your my hero oooooooOOOooooo" lol
Really Eric, I do appreciate your knowledge, and the sharing of knowledge but reading thru this thread made me throw up a little.

So ... I'm going with this ... from Post #3 or something by Highway8 ... plus a long tube header .... and win

edit: Just re-read that post .... using headers already ... mmmmm gotta think a bit more

edit II: It couldn't be the weight of the oil you were using???????????? What were you using for fluids? Engine, Trans, Diff?

In Eric's own words. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71

And just for ****'s and giggles I'll ask if you used a Cyro kit? (hahha ya ok no right).

Originally Posted by Highway8
He is running in the Pirelli Scca Pro Racing World Challenge http://world-challenge.com/ Touring Car class.

I think this is all accurate, I am probably missing something and wrong about something but I am sure I am close.

I believe he has to run the stock or mazdaspeed intake, unknown on coils ( I bet they are not stock), exhaust is open (long tube custom header and exhaust) cant touch the intake manifold, no porting or special internal work. Quality motor rebuild with new or mostly new parts, balanced rotating assembly, lightweight clutch and flywheel. Runs race gas, a leaner AFR and more aggressive ignition timing then we can run on street gas.

In Eric's own words. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
At the time this engine was run (if it is the engine that I believe it is), the coil legality issue hadn't been addressed yet.
Engine management had to be stock or Bosch per the rules, btw, so you can imagine the choice that the lower-tier Rolex teams went with.

230 HP was not totally uncommon, though most were in the mid-220 range.
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Just as a point of comparison (to back up Eric's post), here is another Grand Am car that I did a while back.
This motor already had several races on it by the time I got to it.
Originally Posted by EricMeyer
Ready for this one------chassis dyno. Stock Renesis irons, rotors and housings. Any guesses?
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
These are GrandAm cars. No porting or internal engine modifications are allowed.
Originally Posted by Highway8
You have spelled it out in other post like this one. https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=71

Baiscly you build a good motor, with new or mostly new parts, balancing the rotating assmebly and the fuel injectors, a few oil and coolant flow tricks to improve longevity, Use a high flow intake, long tube header, tune it for the spec 98 race fuel (Probably the .93 Lambda aka 13.5 AFR). Break the motor in and then make your dyno pulls. Run it in 5th gear to make the most power.
Originally Posted by EricMeyer
Good guess. No NOS or equivalent.
Originally Posted by EricMeyer
Wow---now we are talking about serious power gains. We might be building a PPort Renesis in the future using the Renesis intake but for now----this is not a Pport motor. It runs the stock 3 exhaust ports with the rectangle iconel sleeves in their place 100% untampered.
Originally Posted by EricMeyer
Are we giving up on this one already? Guys, guys. This is a great opportunity to learn.

-This is NOT a ported engine
-It is not a supercharged, turbocharged, NOS or leafblower with WD40 at the intake.
-Uses the stock black plastic upper and cast aluminum lower intake (also stock/not ported or other).
-It uses a header
-It runs on trick engine management/not a piggy back or stock ecu
-Yes it runs on race gas (which basically means its a little higher octane, more consistant and is of higher quality).
-This was done on a dynojet pull
-Pulls were STD corrected

Still too many assumptions out there.

Eric

Last edited by wcs; 06-18-2011 at 01:06 PM.
Old 06-18-2011 | 02:09 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Highway8
. Better injectors to improve fuel atomization?
.
I'm going with this guess . You fitted the Brown 480 injectors from a S2 in the P1 position and restaged the other injectors so that P1s are at full noise at high rpm .

Last edited by Brettus; 06-18-2011 at 02:11 PM.


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