Went to get my turbo Rx-8 dyno tuned and here are the number that were made.


Setup. Interceptor X-EMS
Greddy Turbo
Highflow cat
Mazdaspeed exhaust

Peak Psi was around 9 psi

Looking at other people dyno charts, I should of have gotten very close to the 260whp at these setting. I can think of the following things why the HP readings are so low

1. leak

2. run was done in 4th gear

 

Can you post a plot of your boost curve?

 

Hey Mike..that does seem low. I was pulling off 260whp off the base map with the Interceptor.

I would think first off that your exhaust may be restrictive...........because of the size of the piping...
What is the size of your mid piping?

You may also want to check the compression on your motor..

 

I dont have the plot of your boost curve.

the highflow pipe is 2.5" and so is the mazdaspeed exhaust.

 

Were you holding boost at higher RPM's? What's AFR looking like

 

Were you holding boost at higher RPM's? What's AFR looking like


I believe the boost dropped to 5psi at higher rpms.

for the AFRs he was using a gas analyzer


also, with the base map, we got 210hp and 174 torque

 

5psi is a little low. Adjust your WG actuator and you should be able to squeeze out another 2psi.

Was this a Mustang dyno or a Dynojet?

 

looks like you have a leak, or bad coils. you do loose alot of torque towards the end.

also pull all the way out to 8 or 8.5 so you can have a better idea of the boost response

 

I don't have a turbo but isn't that a bit too weak for a turbo'd 8, I was expecting around 280-300 rwhp

 

what kinda dyno?

 

Dynojet

 

It says dynojet on the pic...which is not a good sign b/c dynojets should read more. If this was a Mustang, I would say he is doing fine.

 

would running the car in 5th gear make a difference in the read out?

 

5th gear is correct gear to dyno'd

 

yea 5th gear would've been more accuarte since it's 1:1.

 

your dyno chart looks normal to me.
1 - Don't start adjusting the wastegate... you have a boost controller, let it do its job.
2 - The 5psi drop sounds exactly right since you have a 2.5" midpipe. If you want a few more PSI in the high end i would recommend getting a 3" Midpipe (no cat), or RPs 3" High Flow Cat.
3 - CRH is right about your dip at 6.5k... thats very common on RX-8 Dyno Plots

Knowing your AFRs will be useful. If you can find out what your AFR was near the top end, please post it.
Why did you stop the pull at 7k? It seems like you still had more hp to go eventhough boost was dropping off.

-hS

 

it doesnt matter what gear you ran it in- as long as its the same gear you ran it in before. what was your baseline NA result on this dyno?

 

Except that the Greddy WG actuator doesn't have enough spring strength to hold shut against the exhaust flow above 6500 RPM as it comes configured.
The boost controller can withold the signal all it wants, the WG will still open because of the pressure.
Tightening the arm will allow it to hold more.

 

Update


Drove the car today, at around 4000rpm while adding gas I heard a "pop" it wasnt very loud. switch into 3rd gear and the car didnt accelerate as before! it felt very much like stock.


I opened up the hood, looked at the connections and I was shocked in what I saw!! The intercooler coupling jumped out of its place! It appears as one of the clamps was loose and I was losing air from day one.

 

O, well congrats on finding the prob. JW, which one in particular was loose?

 

Glad you found the problem, that did not sound right at all.

 

Yeah, that'll happen from time to time - especially if you are using the crappy spiral clamps that come with the kit.
I only use T-bolt clamps on the pressure-side couplings. Specifically, Turbonetics clamps. They are garanteed to not come off if properly clamped on a beaded pipe.

However, the likehood that this was producing some sort of boost leak prior to popping is slim.
Usually, the coupler will be pushed right up to the bead with the clamp still in place until it pops off.

 

The arrow pointing to the spot is where the piping jumped out. Looking back it is very likely that the clamp was not properly bolted down. I am using the t-clamps

 

Yes, I also did the change there. I will be running the boost gauge and the BOV from that source. And the interceptor and boost controller from the nipple that is right behind the throttle body. When I did the dyno run, I had all of the things sharing the same line.

 

Hey Mike,

I talked to Mike from DL and he mentioned the issues you were running into. Do you think the loose clamp could have caused the stalling under the electrical load problem as well? Sounds like you found the problem ... so you are going to bring it back to Mike's to get her re-tuned and dyno'd again? Let me know if you are as I would love to come down and take a look. He's going to be tuning the eManage for me soon as well.

Cheers,

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