9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
#3252
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I can do that, I guess. I am pretty fed up with it at this point. I actually replaced the factory positive side wiring harness that goes all the way to the starter and block with a spare we had in the garage and then it started right up with just a bump of the key. But, then I realized the MAF was unplugged So after I plugged the MAF in and restarted again it was right back to the normal long crank time. Voltage at the starter was 12.2V but when you crank it, it drops to 8-10.0V.
I did not swap the ignition yet, I will do that tomorrow I guess.
I did not swap the ignition yet, I will do that tomorrow I guess.
#3253
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Team, the starter is brand new and I only replaced it because I assumed my original starter was done but replacing the starter did nothing. Are you implying both starters are toast?
#3254
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
The issue is the low voltage. The starter is turning over slowly because of it and the starting is slow because the engine is turning over so slowly.
The only way to determine if the battery is good is a load test. A good charged battery will have 13+ volt output. Either the battery is failing under load, there's a bad wire, or there's a bad wiring connection
The only way to determine if the battery is good is a load test. A good charged battery will have 13+ volt output. Either the battery is failing under load, there's a bad wire, or there's a bad wiring connection
#3258
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Yeah man, I will probably slap in Hoss' BHR kit tonight and try to swap the starter with one of the ones we have on hand and just see what's up. Both the Red Top and the yellow duralast I have only show about 12.3V when fully charged.
We are pretty damn certain it is not the wiring since we swapped the harness and ran a battery up front to eliminate the battery relocation as and issue.
But this morning it did seem to start quicker than it has been. But i am not getting excited about it, we shall see what happens when i go to lunch.
We are pretty damn certain it is not the wiring since we swapped the harness and ran a battery up front to eliminate the battery relocation as and issue.
But this morning it did seem to start quicker than it has been. But i am not getting excited about it, we shall see what happens when i go to lunch.
#3262
Yank My Wankel
iTrader: (4)
Use a shunt resistor, measure voltage over it, and you can calculate the current draw. Just have to find a big a** resistor lol
2KW should do it http://www.rhopointasia.com/index.ph...-K-series.html
2KW should do it http://www.rhopointasia.com/index.ph...-K-series.html
Last edited by Carbon8; 03-28-2013 at 10:07 AM.
#3267
Registered
iTrader: (15)
as a side note ... and just to get you angry ...
what if...
none of this is your issue ...
and the real issue is that your engine was poorly rebuilt and is requiring more energy to turn over. thus placing stress on the starter ... thus placing stress on the battery ... thus causing a heavy current draw from the battery ... thus *****
let the hate begin.
what if...
none of this is your issue ...
and the real issue is that your engine was poorly rebuilt and is requiring more energy to turn over. thus placing stress on the starter ... thus placing stress on the battery ... thus causing a heavy current draw from the battery ... thus *****
let the hate begin.
#3268
Yank My Wankel
iTrader: (4)
Fluke Clamp Meters - My Fluke Store
But also takes the fun out of a 2KW cherry resister getting ready to pop,
I would OHM out your grounds first between the block and the chassis before I started wiring things. Should be well under 1 OHM for a good ground
#3269
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Dealer's should have this makes it a lot easier
Fluke Clamp Meters - My Fluke Store
But also takes the fun out of a 2KW cherry resister getting ready to pop,
I would OHM out your grounds first between the block and the chassis before I started wiring things. Should be well under 1 OHM for a good ground
Fluke Clamp Meters - My Fluke Store
But also takes the fun out of a 2KW cherry resister getting ready to pop,
I would OHM out your grounds first between the block and the chassis before I started wiring things. Should be well under 1 OHM for a good ground
#3271
Lucky #33
iTrader: (4)
Dealer's should have this makes it a lot easier
Fluke Clamp Meters - My Fluke Store
But also takes the fun out of a 2KW cherry resister getting ready to pop,
I would OHM out your grounds first between the block and the chassis before I started wiring things. Should be well under 1 OHM for a good ground
Fluke Clamp Meters - My Fluke Store
But also takes the fun out of a 2KW cherry resister getting ready to pop,
I would OHM out your grounds first between the block and the chassis before I started wiring things. Should be well under 1 OHM for a good ground
Yeah no... i would rather just get the proper type of tool for the job lol. I have blown up my fair share of resisters. -v^v^- Pop We added a nice thick second ground to the block.
as a side note ... and just to get you angry ...
what if...
none of this is your issue ...
and the real issue is that your engine was poorly rebuilt and is requiring more energy to turn over. thus placing stress on the starter ... thus placing stress on the battery ... thus causing a heavy current draw from the battery ... thus *****
let the hate begin.
what if...
none of this is your issue ...
and the real issue is that your engine was poorly rebuilt and is requiring more energy to turn over. thus placing stress on the starter ... thus placing stress on the battery ... thus causing a heavy current draw from the battery ... thus *****
let the hate begin.
#3274
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
as a side note ... and just to get you angry ...
what if...
none of this is your issue ...
and the real issue is that your engine was poorly rebuilt and is requiring more energy to turn over. thus placing stress on the starter ... thus placing stress on the battery ... thus causing a heavy current draw from the battery ... thus *****
let the hate begin.
what if...
none of this is your issue ...
and the real issue is that your engine was poorly rebuilt and is requiring more energy to turn over. thus placing stress on the starter ... thus placing stress on the battery ... thus causing a heavy current draw from the battery ... thus *****
let the hate begin.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 03-28-2013 at 10:58 AM.