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9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread

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Old 04-04-2013, 01:37 PM
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Yeah it has been in the 50's the last couple of days, I am ecstatic with the car right now. Saturday the EBC will go on and the wastegate actuator will get tested, adjusted and possibly replaced if needed.
Old 04-04-2013, 01:38 PM
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brettus did an experiment on that plate.
https://www.rx8club.com/major-horsep...-plate-164382/

Last edited by Carbon Fibr; 04-04-2013 at 01:42 PM.
Old 04-04-2013, 01:49 PM
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Yeah, read it a long time ago. I'm not on a stock Greddy turbo though. So I need to think about it some more.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-04-2013 at 01:51 PM.
Old 04-04-2013, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Seems like you could correct that issue in the VE table...

11.3 seems pretty dam lean under boost, I am no master of tuning. It just doesn't seem like something safe to see under boost.
i think that's good...i think it's the best to be around 11.1....
steven
Old 04-04-2013, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
but i would keep the vdi closed in general,
I always leave it closed - it does nothing but cause a slight dip in power as it opens .
Old 04-04-2013, 03:06 PM
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I'm composing a list if things I'd like to do this summer since i managed to neglect my car all of last summer because i was overseas for a long time. I will probably put my blocking plate in (havent had it installed since day 1 with the turbo); but Brettus you mentioned in your thread that you would have to re-tune if you installed the blocking plate because you would see more boost at the same EBC settings; did you mean retune the pcm or retune the boost controller? I don't have my EBC installed yet (it's on the to do list) so would I have to retune my PCM after installing the blocking plate then tune the BC or can I get away with just tuning the EBC after installing the blocking plate?
Old 04-04-2013, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
I'm composing a list if things I'd like to do this summer since i managed to neglect my car all of last summer because i was overseas for a long time. I will probably put my blocking plate in (havent had it installed since day 1 with the turbo); but Brettus you mentioned in your thread that you would have to re-tune if you installed the blocking plate because you would see more boost at the same EBC settings; did you mean retune the pcm or retune the boost controller? I don't have my EBC installed yet (it's on the to do list) so would I have to retune my PCM after installing the blocking plate then tune the BC or can I get away with just tuning the EBC after installing the blocking plate?
You wouldn't really have an issue installing the blocking plate without a retune . What will happen is you may get a rich spot at 6500 depending on how much fuel your tuner put in to counteract the lean spot the APVs induce. You will get 2-3psi more boost from 6500 on-wards but less overall flow . Your tune is not tied to boost ,only flow, so will automatically compensate.
I still think that stock greddy turbos should run without the APVs but just turning them off or unplugging them does the same thing as the plate. Problem with installing the plate is getting a seal . Have seen a few people chasing their tails trying to get it sealed properly.

Last edited by Brettus; 04-04-2013 at 03:18 PM.
Old 04-04-2013, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Yeah it has been in the 50's the last couple of days, I am ecstatic with the car right now. Saturday the EBC will go on and the wastegate actuator will get tested, adjusted and possibly replaced if needed.
I need to take advantage of this great weather! The last time I drove the car it was pretty hot outside. Let us know how the new EBC goes. I wanted to buy that same one before I got the Blitz unit. I'm currently looking into upgrading the wastegate unit also since my current one is pretty banged up.
Old 04-04-2013, 04:20 PM
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I am considering a few options, I would like to try one of the Turbosmart actuators or the COBB locking actuator replacement arm and then add an external wastegate. We shall see how it goes once I get this thing programmed, I have read some great things about it.
Old 04-04-2013, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Hmm I was always told 10.8 is as lean as you want to go...

But then again this is the rotary community and everyone has their own opinions.
I like 10.8 for street cars on pump gas. It trades a fairly small amount of power for some margin of safety in the event of a crappy tank of fuel.

Of course AFR and timing are tied together so 11.4 or leaner with conservative timing can be safe too. It just depends on how you like to roll. The one advantage of a dyno is that you can play with the combo's and get a feel for what feels better.
Old 04-04-2013, 06:22 PM
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my vdi has been permanently sealed and blocked for years.

My a/f's are high 10's low 11's?????????
oem split and leading at 14.5 at wot/load

I have ran the denso 31's in the trailing for years without fouling--do remember we are boosted.
NP out of boost either. I do idle faster though.
They do last longer than the ngks in my engine.
http://sparkplugs.com/Data/uploads/Heat_Range_Chart.jpg
Old 04-04-2013, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I am considering a few options, I would like to try one of the Turbosmart actuators or the COBB locking actuator replacement arm and then add an external wastegate. We shall see how it goes once I get this thing programmed, I have read some great things about it.
I just ordered one of the Turbosmart IWG Actuators, I'll let you know how it goes.

What EBC did you go with?
Old 04-04-2013, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
The lean spike at 6000ish is pretty common on and is the APV opening . The other rich spike at 7000 is a mystery though - never seen that before . VDI always opens at 7250 irespective of load.
You're assuming it has't been changed. The APV opening goes lean, the VDI opening goes rich. You can adjust for it *some* relative to AFR, but the limitation is the 500 rpm cell adjustment window is too wide to control it finely and what you can't adjust is the opening rate. So how quickly they do or don't open changes things relative to which gear you're in and the resulting rate of rpm change. It takes a lot of time to test and tune these details in for all conditions, or at least as close as is possible given the features in your control.
Old 04-04-2013, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
You're assuming it has't been changed. The APV opening goes lean, the VDI opening goes rich. You can adjust for it *some* relative to AFR, but the limitation is the 500 rpm cell adjustment window is too wide to control it finely and what you can't adjust is the opening rate. So how quickly they do or don't open changes things relative to which gear you're in and the resulting rate of rpm change. It takes a lot of time to test and tune these details in for all conditions, or at least as close as is possible given the features in your control.
I've seen a lot of logs and never seen that rich spike before .
What you are saying about valve open timing is very true - you can't tune for it very well on a dyno either as the rate of opening relative to rate of rpm rise is never the same.
Old 04-05-2013, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by kma5783
I just ordered one of the Turbosmart IWG Actuators, I'll let you know how it goes.

What EBC did you go with?
Nice man, I am excited to see how it works out. I went with the HKS EVC-S EBC

Originally Posted by olddragger
my vdi has been permanently sealed and blocked for years.

My a/f's are high 10's low 11's?????????
oem split and leading at 14.5 at wot/load

I have ran the denso 31's in the trailing for years without fouling--do remember we are boosted.
NP out of boost either. I do idle faster though.
They do last longer than the ngks in my engine.
http://sparkplugs.com/Data/uploads/Heat_Range_Chart.jpg
My AFR's are about the same, my aftermarket gauge shows a minimum of 10.4 but the average is like 11.2 or so now where as before it would peg low at 11.17 on the data-logs and 10.0 on mt aftermarket gauge. My idle is rock solid and I have zero misfires.

I am still pulling my hair out though with the hard starts though, maybe 1 out of every ten starts I still get a hard start. Swapping the BHR coils did seem to reduce the instances greatly but the issue is still there and i still have the damn APV stuck open code even though Steve confirmed what I thought and said the APV's appear to be working just fine. But not having things fixed 100% is a bit annoying to me so I will keep at it.
Old 04-05-2013, 12:51 AM
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If the APV is operating but throwing a code then the likely culprit is the control motor. There are other possibilities like the wiring or connector, but I'd start there
Old 04-05-2013, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
If the APV is operating but throwing a code then the likely culprit is the control motor. There are other possibilities like the wiring or connector, but I'd start there
Yeah I have an extra motor or two laying around, I plan on swapping it just to see. I did test the connector previously.
Old 04-05-2013, 09:48 AM
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Thats interesting Team...I throw the same code and always assumed it was from porting the APV's (but 9k says his APV's weren't ported)....I will swap with the extra motor I just aquired and see what happens ...maybe I can get rid of this code afterall
Old 04-05-2013, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Kane
I like 10.8 for street cars on pump gas. It trades a fairly small amount of power for some margin of safety in the event of a crappy tank of fuel.

Of course AFR and timing are tied together so 11.4 or leaner with conservative timing can be safe too. It just depends on how you like to roll. The one advantage of a dyno is that you can play with the combo's and get a feel for what feels better.
good info
steven
Old 04-05-2013, 12:10 PM
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so 9krpm are you running with 4 trailing plugs right now?
Old 04-05-2013, 12:38 PM
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I've replaced the motor, clocked the gears, went through all the steps of troubleshooting. Tested the motor out etc.... That APV code will forever be there on my car...
Old 04-05-2013, 12:45 PM
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^ thats what I am afraid of (not that it really matters...its the principle of it )
Old 04-05-2013, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
^ thats what I am afraid of (not that it really matters...its the principle of it )
Yea the one thing we forgot to do was drill out that screw for the gear that I stripped. I wanted to try fooling around with placing the gear at different positions per a TSB that went out several years back.
Old 04-05-2013, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
so 9krpm are you running with 4 trailing plugs right now?
Not yet, I have the Denso Race Plugs in (RX-8 Trailing and FD Leading).
Old 04-05-2013, 01:30 PM
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this one?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...44770516,d.b2I


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