TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Funny, could have sworn I'm not the one obsessing over the numbers and who's are the highest I would get rid of the mount too, but that's another subject for another thread.

Until then it would still be best to minimize the restrictions as much as possible. It's not pointless at all, but rather emphasizes how little you understand the basic engineering principles behind the ideas. It may have been fine for the original Greddy intent of boost & power. Whether you realize it or not it has to be holding your effort back some in the quest to squeeze it for all its worth.

Did you honestly think it was simple as throwing in a larger compressor wheel and it magically makes full use of it while trying to suck intake air in through a straw? Ok then ...

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

You really think a short 3 " coupler (pre maf) on a Greddy intake is going to make a difference when most of the system is already 2 1/4" (post maf) ?????????? ...............what a load of bollocks . You are so tied up in your theories you forget reality and common sense.


BTW - I have done all that I can to minimize the restrictions in the stock system without totally redesigning the whole thing so It's not like I don't understand the concept or I would not have bothered.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Every filter I've seen that's 3.5" sits/rest the bottom half of the filter on the crash bar and the bumper covers up a portion as well. Those numbers are good though! When I ran the numbers the filter I designed will work up to 9 Psi flowing a max rate of 627 CFM.

I actually worked with a company that makes in-line filters for heavy equipment and air filters for autos and bikes. The design we came up with has almost as much surface area as the stock air filter and allows all sides of the filter to pull in air.

The 3.5" diameter is a sacrifice but It seems to be worth it so far. As I said the kinks are being worked out and the design is in the early stages.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

are yall using oiled or non oiled type filters?

For a comparative/informational read concerning pre turbo/supercharger air flow go to kenne bells site.

Question? Does the the oem wiring harness have enough length of wire to route the maf outside
( once you dissect it), or do you have to add to it?

I would like to place my maf outside the engine bay also, but I am not fond of adding wires to the maf.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

It's fairly tight, you will need to extend the maf by about a foot and a half of wiring.

If you are doing it for the sole purpose of reading colder IAT's I would recommend getting a separate GM/Ford sensor and putting it on the cold side of your system.

I don't know what sensor is needed but I know its been done.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Its a proprietary synthetic blend, non-oiled.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Teams' ideal turbo pipeing - note the lack of reducers ........

Timeline Photos | Facebook

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Well if Hoss-05's new engine mount bracket and mount (looks perfect) works out well then I will have one fabbed up for me and then I will be able to get a larger diameter pipe all the way the to the turbo. That is the ultimate goal.

slash128

Good news!!! Any photos?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

We are keeping them under wraps, we don't want certain people copying anything

slash128

Haha lol, good idea!

kma5783

iTrader: (7)

There's plenty of wiring to relocate it almost anywhere in that area.

When I did my wire tuck I pulled the wiring back, it was long enough to reach all the way to the Passenger Side Strut tower, so it would be plenty of wire to get the MAF relocated behind the bumper.

I need one too!

My intake piping is 2.75" to match the turbo inlet and I had to dent in the pipe a little to get it to fit for now.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Great--thanks man.

slash128

Ya, OD I did the same. Just open up the loom tubing along the drivers side and there is enough MAF wire to bring the sensor out front with length to spare.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

shouldnt be that hard and it will solve my heat buildup in slow traffic etc.
With the maf pipe inside, closer to the TB and with a cai like most others--- I never could get smooth air past the sensor during the higher rpms. It wasn't bad, only a few cells, but those do go away when i take the cold air part off.
BUT, at stoplights etc, and now that the weather is warmer ( 80's) my iat can get hotter than the air entering the combustion chamber. My intercooler works ok ( water/air).
Anyway thats not a good thing so I do need to fix it.
Appreciate the knowledge boys--rotor on....

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

It was already apparent that you had nothing intelligent to add to the discussion. I also told you that the center port mod was a bust and you had to find that out the hard way. If you really want to prove me wrong then just do it the way I described and show everyone for yourself.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Good info, I didnt even think about stripping it back and re-routing the wire!

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I'll give you that - but the dynamics of that situation were way more complex than what we are talking about here . I still figured it was worth trying with the info I had at hand .

You are quite right that the way you suggest to do it would help - that was not in dispute . All I was disputing was your dumb comment about the effect of that "reducer".

A 2.25" ID pipe is approx. 1/2 the area of a 3" ID pipe and the 3" pipe is about 1/12th of the length of the 2.25" (2" vs 24" long approx.)

Ponder that ................. Do you still think the "reducer" will have a consequential negative effect ? If you do , how about doing some calcs based on say 350g/s flow and compare the pressure drop between the two.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Question for boosted guys:

I am having some boost issues and I am still fine tuning my controller. Sometime if I get into it the boost builds quick, and gets to 9-10psi and holds fine until it start to drop off at high RPM's. Normal I know.

But then sometimes I get into it and boost spikes and hits boost cuts which then causes my controller to drop boost to a certain percentage (I have it set at 25%, default is 100%) and then I only hold 2-3psi to red line and sometimes less. Then sometimes I get on it and it does something in between like 5-6psi across the rev range.

But I find that if I roll into the throttle rather than stabbing the pedal it does just fine, boost builds consistently almost every time.

But should it be so finicky concerning throttle control? Do you guys find that boost is consistent each and every run if you make back to back, hard runs?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

absolutely 100% consistent .

You need to set your boost cut higher and have a smaller % reduction for starters . But it does sound like oher stuff is going on .....

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I have two modes, I set the second mode up to 12psi max and reduced the boost cut percentage to 25%. I will test it out after work. I still think I need a new wastegate actuator, no telling how old mine is. I am just waiting on Sifu to fit the Turbosmart one and see how it fits.

J8635621

iTrader: (10)

Sifu's car will never be finished. Just get one

kma5783

iTrader: (7)

If I was able to fit it with a GT3076R stuffed in there, then you should have no problem.

JUST DO IT!!!!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

What kind of controller?...how is it plumbed?....int wastegate?...sounds like your spring or actuator is weak. When you build slow it is OK..when you hit it hard it overpowers the gate and it opens earlier than it should