9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
07-13-2011, 08:38 AM
#502
dude--dman --sorry to hear this.
Ok --dont forget Cam at Pettit racingdoes a good FI 13Bmsp build.
He likes adding the rx7 apx seals and he does something to the water and oil passages. I can testify to that.
He does just port cleaning so the port timing is unchanged.
But your compression is still good which means all the major parts (Rotors/plates and housings) may be just fine.
Get a well built engine--then just slowly accumulate parts to learn how to do a respectable build on your own. Cam is very reasonable on his builds. Tell him I sent ya!
Brian also does beatiful work as many others out there do.
I just have experience with Cam.
Your goal is a street driven approx 300rwhp build? Is that about right?
You may want to look at the latest findings of the partial bridgeport--it seems to have a good affect on the corner and side seals? Not really finalized yet, but preliminary evidence is promising.
I know you are pissed--but your next engine ill be stronger and better. Just remember that.
Ok --dont forget Cam at Pettit racingdoes a good FI 13Bmsp build.
He likes adding the rx7 apx seals and he does something to the water and oil passages. I can testify to that.
He does just port cleaning so the port timing is unchanged.
But your compression is still good which means all the major parts (Rotors/plates and housings) may be just fine.
Get a well built engine--then just slowly accumulate parts to learn how to do a respectable build on your own. Cam is very reasonable on his builds. Tell him I sent ya!
Brian also does beatiful work as many others out there do.
I just have experience with Cam.
Your goal is a street driven approx 300rwhp build? Is that about right?
You may want to look at the latest findings of the partial bridgeport--it seems to have a good affect on the corner and side seals? Not really finalized yet, but preliminary evidence is promising.
I know you are pissed--but your next engine ill be stronger and better. Just remember that.
07-13-2011, 09:04 AM
#503
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
building your own will be as big of a crap shoot as another reman, that said you likely are not interested in paying $8k+ for a real pro built engine broken in and dyno tested prior to shipping it to you either
pro built Renesis = Daryl Drummond, Rick Engman, David Haskell
then there is everybody else ...
pro built Renesis = Daryl Drummond, Rick Engman, David Haskell
then there is everybody else ...
dude--dman --sorry to hear this.
Ok --dont forget Cam at Pettit racingdoes a good FI 13Bmsp build.
He likes adding the rx7 apx seals and he does something to the water and oil passages. I can testify to that.
He does just port cleaning so the port timing is unchanged.
But your compression is still good which means all the major parts (Rotors/plates and housings) may be just fine.
Get a well built engine--then just slowly accumulate parts to learn how to do a respectable build on your own. Cam is very reasonable on his builds. Tell him I sent ya!
Brian also does beatiful work as many others out there do.
I just have experience with Cam.
Your goal is a street driven approx 300rwhp build? Is that about right?
You may want to look at the latest findings of the partial bridgeport--it seems to have a good affect on the corner and side seals? Not really finalized yet, but preliminary evidence is promising.
I know you are pissed--but your next engine ill be stronger and better. Just remember that.
Ok --dont forget Cam at Pettit racingdoes a good FI 13Bmsp build.
He likes adding the rx7 apx seals and he does something to the water and oil passages. I can testify to that.
He does just port cleaning so the port timing is unchanged.
But your compression is still good which means all the major parts (Rotors/plates and housings) may be just fine.
Get a well built engine--then just slowly accumulate parts to learn how to do a respectable build on your own. Cam is very reasonable on his builds. Tell him I sent ya!
Brian also does beatiful work as many others out there do.
I just have experience with Cam.
Your goal is a street driven approx 300rwhp build? Is that about right?
You may want to look at the latest findings of the partial bridgeport--it seems to have a good affect on the corner and side seals? Not really finalized yet, but preliminary evidence is promising.
I know you are pissed--but your next engine ill be stronger and better. Just remember that.
But, the bright side is that it will make my turbo install easier and I can finally have that broken bolt fixed properly in my UIM.
07-13-2011, 09:10 AM
#504
My 2 cents:
Get a used lower mileage 06+ motor to put in and run while your sorting out all the FI stuff. That way the motor is all ready broke in and you dont have to worry about blowing a rebuild expensive rebuild. Plus it get you back on the road for less money and in less time.
After sorting everything out, get your current motor rebuilt and you can take your time and do everything the way you want it. When the motor is done and you have time, swap in the new motor and keep the old one as is for a spare or rebuild it and have a built spare laying around. Plus that way you will see/feel the difference between a stock motor and fresh quality rebuilt motor. If you buy a long block the spare LIM and OMP are nice to have around too.
Get a used lower mileage 06+ motor to put in and run while your sorting out all the FI stuff. That way the motor is all ready broke in and you dont have to worry about blowing a rebuild expensive rebuild. Plus it get you back on the road for less money and in less time.
After sorting everything out, get your current motor rebuilt and you can take your time and do everything the way you want it. When the motor is done and you have time, swap in the new motor and keep the old one as is for a spare or rebuild it and have a built spare laying around. Plus that way you will see/feel the difference between a stock motor and fresh quality rebuilt motor. If you buy a long block the spare LIM and OMP are nice to have around too.
07-13-2011, 09:16 AM
#505
time line is fast--1 week not counting shipping?
Call him 561-844-2258. Tell him you talked to me. He has a lot of experience in building this engine for low boost and street driving. It doesnt cost anywhere near 8K if you have a good core.
You know-- if I have to do another engine for some reason--i am going with a 13B PP engine with the low compression rotors etc. I dont have to worry about emissions and such.
Call him 561-844-2258. Tell him you talked to me. He has a lot of experience in building this engine for low boost and street driving. It doesnt cost anywhere near 8K if you have a good core.
You know-- if I have to do another engine for some reason--i am going with a 13B PP engine with the low compression rotors etc. I dont have to worry about emissions and such.
07-13-2011, 09:20 AM
#507
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
My 2 cents:
Get a used lower mileage 06+ motor to put in and run while your sorting out all the FI stuff. That way the motor is all ready broke in and you dont have to worry about blowing a rebuild expensive rebuild. Plus it get you back on the road for less money and in less time.
After sorting everything out, get your current motor rebuilt and you can take your time and do everything the way you want it. When the motor is done and you have time, swap in the new motor and keep the old one as is for a spare or rebuild it and have a built spare laying around. Plus that way you will see/feel the difference between a stock motor and fresh quality rebuilt motor. If you buy a long block the spare LIM and OMP are nice to have around too.
Get a used lower mileage 06+ motor to put in and run while your sorting out all the FI stuff. That way the motor is all ready broke in and you dont have to worry about blowing a rebuild expensive rebuild. Plus it get you back on the road for less money and in less time.
After sorting everything out, get your current motor rebuilt and you can take your time and do everything the way you want it. When the motor is done and you have time, swap in the new motor and keep the old one as is for a spare or rebuild it and have a built spare laying around. Plus that way you will see/feel the difference between a stock motor and fresh quality rebuilt motor. If you buy a long block the spare LIM and OMP are nice to have around too.
07-13-2011, 09:22 AM
#508
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
time line is fast--1 week not counting shipping?
Call him 561-844-2258. Tell him you talked to me. He has a lot of experience in building this engine for low boost and street driving. It doesnt cost anywhere near 8K if you have a good core.
You know-- if I have to do another engine for some reason--i am going with a 13B PP engine with the low compression rotors etc. I dont have to worry about emissions and such.
Call him 561-844-2258. Tell him you talked to me. He has a lot of experience in building this engine for low boost and street driving. It doesnt cost anywhere near 8K if you have a good core.
You know-- if I have to do another engine for some reason--i am going with a 13B PP engine with the low compression rotors etc. I dont have to worry about emissions and such.
07-13-2011, 11:46 AM
#510
building your own will be as big of a crap shoot as another reman, that said you likely are not interested in paying $8k+ for a real pro built engine broken in and dyno tested prior to shipping it to you either
pro built Renesis = Daryl Drummond, Rick Engman, David Haskell
then there is everybody else ...
pro built Renesis = Daryl Drummond, Rick Engman, David Haskell
then there is everybody else ...
Might as well do it yourself and learn a new skill if you don't want to shell out the money for a pro build.
07-13-2011, 03:50 PM
#512
You will never learn what they know or accomplish what they will in a single build. Can you build an engine that runs? Sure, if you are careful and invest in tools you may never use or need again. It can always cost less if you are willing to sacrifice performance and durability with less than optimum part tolerances, cheaper aftermarket parts, etc. But as Eeic Meyer has stated, they use many new major parts on their engine builds to achieve the best possible outcome as any Pro will want to do and that's not cheap, let alone many additional hours of detail work that you can bet are not commonly known outside a few tight knit circles. There are people who will not charge as much and still give you something reasonably priced and well built. They should not feel insulted or slighted by me not mentioning their name. That's just my opinion, right or wrong.
In this particular case since this is a performance street engine you are not held back by any rules or limitations other than the cost. IMO it would be foolish and short sighted to bother building any performance engine without having it balanced, especially a Renesis engine.
In this particular case since this is a performance street engine you are not held back by any rules or limitations other than the cost. IMO it would be foolish and short sighted to bother building any performance engine without having it balanced, especially a Renesis engine.
07-13-2011, 04:51 PM
#513
If you aren't changing the weight of any parts and you are daily driving your car why would you waste the money to have it balanced?
Mazdatrix even notes that a balancing would be for race engines or engines using mismatched/different weighted parts. Neither is the case here, balancing seems kind of redundant at this point.
I guess my point of view is why pay somebody to do a job you can do yourself, that will turn into a useful skill especially going FI. If you need to shell out 5 grand every time you blow an apex seal that's gonna suck after a while.
Mazdatrix even notes that a balancing would be for race engines or engines using mismatched/different weighted parts. Neither is the case here, balancing seems kind of redundant at this point.
I guess my point of view is why pay somebody to do a job you can do yourself, that will turn into a useful skill especially going FI. If you need to shell out 5 grand every time you blow an apex seal that's gonna suck after a while.
07-13-2011, 05:16 PM
#514
Super Moderator
Should be able to pick up a brand new "factory" made short engine for $4K or less, just drop it in.
I know VA has many brand new 13B REW's sitting there, a few S2 Renny's, not sure on S1 Renny..they may have a few..or have used them.
Once out of production you cant get new engines..unless MMC has a few in their stock (which is a possibility)
I know VA has many brand new 13B REW's sitting there, a few S2 Renny's, not sure on S1 Renny..they may have a few..or have used them.
Once out of production you cant get new engines..unless MMC has a few in their stock (which is a possibility)
07-13-2011, 11:52 PM
#516
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Well I talked to a couple of the builders today and pretty much settled on Pineapple Racing after talking to Rob for over an hour. I was very impressed. That guy knows his stuff and shed some light on the Renesis and what he has seen in both boosted and NA street cars, buggies, track cars, etc. He also educated me on several other aspects of the car but I would rather he divulge that info on his own because I would not want to quote him incorrectly.
I will get a low mileage (5,000 miles) from him and he will replace every seal in the motor, do some port work, Stage 2 oil mods (increased pressure, clean up of areas), heavy duty water seals, and balance the rotating assembly (he said he doesn't build a motor without balancing the assembly). I will send him my motor in exchange and he will tear it down and report what he finds about the engine.
He shed some light on aftermarket radiators and how to go about selecting one (only if absolutely necessary) that is right for a street driven RX-8. He really recommends going with a custom unit based off the OEM unit and he gave my some examples as to why bigger is not always better and explained some things that really opened my eyes and really changed the way I look at aftermarket radiators.
His basic message with regard to the renny was premix (.75-1oz per gallon), watch your coolant temps like a hawk (says temps should never exceed 205F if setup right), change your oil often, increased oil pressure helps, and make sure your tune is right. He also said for a dedicated track car to use good race gas and/or run a mix if possible.
All the builders I talked to seemed really knowledgeable and some had different thoughts on certain things but Rob just really laid it all out for me and the price is right considering what he is doing and I'll basically be getting a fresh engine with only 5,000 on the parts instead of working with my Mazda Reman.
I will get a low mileage (5,000 miles) from him and he will replace every seal in the motor, do some port work, Stage 2 oil mods (increased pressure, clean up of areas), heavy duty water seals, and balance the rotating assembly (he said he doesn't build a motor without balancing the assembly). I will send him my motor in exchange and he will tear it down and report what he finds about the engine.
He shed some light on aftermarket radiators and how to go about selecting one (only if absolutely necessary) that is right for a street driven RX-8. He really recommends going with a custom unit based off the OEM unit and he gave my some examples as to why bigger is not always better and explained some things that really opened my eyes and really changed the way I look at aftermarket radiators.
His basic message with regard to the renny was premix (.75-1oz per gallon), watch your coolant temps like a hawk (says temps should never exceed 205F if setup right), change your oil often, increased oil pressure helps, and make sure your tune is right. He also said for a dedicated track car to use good race gas and/or run a mix if possible.
All the builders I talked to seemed really knowledgeable and some had different thoughts on certain things but Rob just really laid it all out for me and the price is right considering what he is doing and I'll basically be getting a fresh engine with only 5,000 on the parts instead of working with my Mazda Reman.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-14-2011 at 11:34 AM.
07-14-2011, 12:30 AM
#517
Well I talked to a couple of the builders today and pretty much settled on Pineapple Racing after talking to Rob for over an hour. I was very impressed. That guy knows his stuff and shed some light on the Renesis and what he has seen in both boosted and NA street cars, buggies, track cars, etc. He also educated me on several other aspects of the car but I would rather he divulge that info on his own because I would wanna quote him incorrectly.
I will get a low mileage (5,000 miles) from him and he will replace every seal in the motor, do some port work, Stage 2 oil mods (increased pressure, clean up of areas), heavy duty water seals, and balance the rotating assembly (he said he doesn't build a motor without balancing the assembly). I will send him my motor in exchange and he will tear it down and report what he finds about the engine.
He shed some light on aftermarket radiators and how to go about selecting one (only if absolutely necessary) that is right for a street driven RX-8. He really recommends going with a custom unit based off the OEM unit and he gave my some examples as to why bigger is not always better and explained some things that really opened my eyes and really changed the way I look at aftermarket radiators.
His basic message with regard to the renny was premix (.75-1oz per gallon), watch your coolant temps like a hawk (says temps should never exceed 205F if setup right), change your oil often, increased oil pressure helps, and make sure your tune is right. He also said for a dedicated track car to use good race gas and/or run a mix if possible.
All the builders I talked to seemed really knowledgeable and some had different thoughts on certain things but Rob just really laid it all out for me and the price is right considering what he is doing and I'll basically be getting a fresh engine with only 5,000 on the parts instead of working with my Mazda Reman.
I will get a low mileage (5,000 miles) from him and he will replace every seal in the motor, do some port work, Stage 2 oil mods (increased pressure, clean up of areas), heavy duty water seals, and balance the rotating assembly (he said he doesn't build a motor without balancing the assembly). I will send him my motor in exchange and he will tear it down and report what he finds about the engine.
He shed some light on aftermarket radiators and how to go about selecting one (only if absolutely necessary) that is right for a street driven RX-8. He really recommends going with a custom unit based off the OEM unit and he gave my some examples as to why bigger is not always better and explained some things that really opened my eyes and really changed the way I look at aftermarket radiators.
His basic message with regard to the renny was premix (.75-1oz per gallon), watch your coolant temps like a hawk (says temps should never exceed 205F if setup right), change your oil often, increased oil pressure helps, and make sure your tune is right. He also said for a dedicated track car to use good race gas and/or run a mix if possible.
All the builders I talked to seemed really knowledgeable and some had different thoughts on certain things but Rob just really laid it all out for me and the price is right considering what he is doing and I'll basically be getting a fresh engine with only 5,000 on the parts instead of working with my Mazda Reman.
I think there's a hidden message in that somewhere 
07-14-2011, 11:48 AM
#525
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Yep, I learned a few things and had a few things confirmed.
My car doesn't even sit on all four stands evenly with the engine in it, I can imagine with the engine out it can get tricky. I do have a nice flat garage to do the work in though.