9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
07-25-2011, 05:23 PM
#576
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
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I'd use something like this....cut the male NPT flush with the hex on the inside....and you are good to go...use 5/8" or -10 
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com...t_p/2706ln.htm
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com...t_p/2706ln.htm
Cool. Thanks.
The Innovate seems like an ok piece and uses a nice Bosch sensor. The price is right and my budget is getting tight with the unexpected engine rebuild. The odds and ends add up!
07-25-2011, 05:29 PM
#577
The LC-1's go through sensors on a rotary like a fat kid in a candy store....PM me and I'll show you a cheap and easy heat sync that helps a lot
You could try different fittings if that one sticks out too far to allow the drain line to hook up easily. I used a nut on the inside and outside of a straight JIC nipple...with the inside one tack welded so it doesn't loosen off..You can buy seals that have o-ring and steel washers fused together at hydraulic places that seal really well.....
You could try different fittings if that one sticks out too far to allow the drain line to hook up easily. I used a nut on the inside and outside of a straight JIC nipple...with the inside one tack welded so it doesn't loosen off..You can buy seals that have o-ring and steel washers fused together at hydraulic places that seal really well.....
07-25-2011, 10:44 PM
#580
Yes, but new stuff comes out all the time!! I didn't really want more 52mm gauges but............
07-26-2011, 11:37 AM
#587
07-26-2011, 12:29 PM
#588
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Install all that before..... Can't remember 100% whether or not you should leave the WG actuator on or off until the motor is in place though. The WG actuator does have to be installed before the passenger motor mount in either case though.
If NAPA doesn't have it I know I found stuff at an idustrial supplier that specializes in hose... It was called GreenLine but I doubt that they have that outside of my area, let alone Texas. I imagine there is something like that in your area though.
07-26-2011, 12:31 PM
#589
Probably not the turbo unless you don't mind scratching the engine bay paint, you will need to be moving the engine about to get it mated with the trans assuming you intend not to pull the trans in/out separately as per RRs engine removal thread
07-26-2011, 12:33 PM
#590
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Ya either way with the engine lift is should be fairly simple to get that turbo on after it is mated with the tranny, I managed to do it with a 2 ton jack and a chunk of plywood accross the oil pan.
Although I have seen pics of people installing the engine with the turbo mounted.... not sure whether they had any scratching or not.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 07-26-2011 at 12:35 PM.
07-26-2011, 05:28 PM
#596
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Gotcha. I also may redo my oil lines to my Fluidyne oil cooler if funds allow. My clutch only has 30k on it, I am debating whether or not to replace it now as well since it will be easy.