9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
08-20-2011, 03:54 PM
#701
Also, does anyone know where I can get the parts for the turbo inlet/outlet?
Circled here:
Also, the gasket between the turbine outlet and the downpipe I got from ATP does not match the stock Greddy gasket, the holes don't line up. I was looking at the part numbers from Greddy and a Google search revealed a lot of the the part numbers are the same as a Nissan part numbers for the same gaskets used on the SR20DET.
Do you think the Nissan part # is the Greddy gasket?
Circled here:
Also, the gasket between the turbine outlet and the downpipe I got from ATP does not match the stock Greddy gasket, the holes don't line up. I was looking at the part numbers from Greddy and a Google search revealed a lot of the the part numbers are the same as a Nissan part numbers for the same gaskets used on the SR20DET.
Do you think the Nissan part # is the Greddy gasket?
Last edited by Brettus; 08-20-2011 at 04:09 PM.
08-20-2011, 07:09 PM
#702
The wetting agent adds an oxy mol to the chemical makeup of water.
We ran this stuff in the racecar only when we had to and got it out quickly.
It allows the water to get closer to the metal. It doesn't take a Phd to figure it out; IT WILL RUST SOONER. Running anti freeze will act as an anti rust but it does not cool as well as water.
All the ads for anti freeze make you think it cools better, wrong. It boils at higher temp is all. Read the words carefully and you'll see what I mean.
We ran this stuff in the racecar only when we had to and got it out quickly.
It allows the water to get closer to the metal. It doesn't take a Phd to figure it out; IT WILL RUST SOONER. Running anti freeze will act as an anti rust but it does not cool as well as water.
All the ads for anti freeze make you think it cools better, wrong. It boils at higher temp is all. Read the words carefully and you'll see what I mean.
08-20-2011, 10:01 PM
#704
08-21-2011, 02:11 AM
#705
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The wetting agent adds an oxy mol to the chemical makeup of water.
We ran this stuff in the racecar only when we had to and got it out quickly.
It allows the water to get closer to the metal. It doesn't take a Phd to figure it out; IT WILL RUST SOONER. Running anti freeze will act as an anti rust but it does not cool as well as water.
All the ads for anti freeze make you think it cools better, wrong. It boils at higher temp is all. Read the words carefully and you'll see what I mean.
We ran this stuff in the racecar only when we had to and got it out quickly.
It allows the water to get closer to the metal. It doesn't take a Phd to figure it out; IT WILL RUST SOONER. Running anti freeze will act as an anti rust but it does not cool as well as water.
All the ads for anti freeze make you think it cools better, wrong. It boils at higher temp is all. Read the words carefully and you'll see what I mean.
Yep, it never made a difference in temps or the time it took to cool down once hot when I switched to distilled water and water wetter.
Funny you say that, that is exactly what was built up behind the water pump.
08-23-2011, 01:39 PM
#708
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You have no idea............. I get depressed every-time I get into it and I find myself driving 10MPH below the speed limit at all times. But it beats walking
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 08-23-2011 at 01:43 PM.
08-23-2011, 02:53 PM
#711
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Thanks brother, I know if you could you would man, you have been a HUGE help already though.
My last rental during an engine replacement was a brand new Nissan Sentra FE with a CVT transmission. It was like driving a Mercedes S500 compared to this POS Chevy. My worst was a saturn ION i got during my first engine replacement. I actually took it back after the drivers side window stopped working and they gave me a Kia Optima and it was way better.
08-23-2011, 03:28 PM
#712
I have had so many different rentals, ford fivehundred, ford fusion, sentra, sante fe, land rover lr2, audi a4, chevy malibu, g6,... the list goes on just dont remember them all... aside from the a4 and the lr2 they were all pretty much the same typical rental car.
I took the land rover in and my buddy at the dealership hooked me up with a brand new lr2, it had 3 miles on it. That was my best free rental car I have ever had.
I took the land rover in and my buddy at the dealership hooked me up with a brand new lr2, it had 3 miles on it. That was my best free rental car I have ever had.
08-23-2011, 05:04 PM
#715
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Tuning will be worked on from the first time I am able to get a datalog. I will probably do a break in period on the motor as per pineapples recommendations. I will definitely change the oil at 500 miles, 1500 miles, and 3000 miles just for the hell of it. I will wait until they tear apart my old motor and report back before I pick a motor oil and premix/SOHN lubricant.
08-25-2011, 01:36 PM
#717
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Okay, so AMR called. My turbo is pretty much fried and worse then initially thought. It was roasted, there were huge chunks of coked oil and seals were pretty much gone. He is giving me a few options. These options of course are going to be limited by my funds at the moment but the prices are beyond a great deal so I am likely going to stretch to pay for it since it may be a deal i don't want to pass up.
Anyway, here are the options and forgive me if I screw up the parts/names, etc. I don't have the written quote yet, I am going off a phone conversation. He can do a stock rebuild, stock rebuild with water cooled/oil cooled center section, Rebuild and machining with a bigger wheel/impeller and a water cooled/oil cooled center section. My problem with the last full blown option is that he just said it would make quite a bit more power, he didn't give me specific spec such as the size of the wheel, etc..
Now AMR is a full blown shop that has been around for years. Rob (AMR, not pineapple) is very knowledgeable and had access to great building tools such as a very expensive turbo balancing machine, etc. so I am inclined to take his word for it when he says it will be sufficient for my application but what do you guys think?
What question do you think I should be asking? He is no rotary expert but he has built many turbos for FD's, etc. and he is a god in the Subie world.
Anyway, here are the options and forgive me if I screw up the parts/names, etc. I don't have the written quote yet, I am going off a phone conversation. He can do a stock rebuild, stock rebuild with water cooled/oil cooled center section, Rebuild and machining with a bigger wheel/impeller and a water cooled/oil cooled center section. My problem with the last full blown option is that he just said it would make quite a bit more power, he didn't give me specific spec such as the size of the wheel, etc..
Now AMR is a full blown shop that has been around for years. Rob (AMR, not pineapple
) is very knowledgeable and had access to great building tools such as a very expensive turbo balancing machine, etc. so I am inclined to take his word for it when he says it will be sufficient for my application but what do you guys think?What question do you think I should be asking? He is no rotary expert but he has built many turbos for FD's, etc. and he is a god in the Subie world.
08-25-2011, 01:50 PM
#720
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you could ask him what quite a bit more power is? and what wheel he is going to use. I can't see it being much more than the BNR upgrade though as far as numbers go. If you plan on keeping the turbo for a long time before upgrading I would go with at least the water cooled CHRA. I'm glad I bought my kit new haha 
08-25-2011, 01:53 PM
#721
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you could ask him what quite a bit more power is? and what wheel he is going to use. I can't see it being much more than the BNR upgrade though as far as numbers go. If you plan on keeping the turbo for a long time before upgrading I would go with at least the water cooled CHRA. I'm glad I bought my kit new haha
Yeah I will get wheel sizes. I wouldn't mind more power but honestly I am not looking for huge power because I don't want to go overboard with power and blow my engine. Definitely want the water cooled center section for sure just for reliability.
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08-25-2011, 02:30 PM
#724
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380 whp or bust? 
Believe me you'll love the feel of the stock greddy at its stock 5 or 6 psi, but after a while you'll crave more. I bumped my boost up a little to about 9 but now I'm just waiting to install my EBC where I'll then back off on the actuator arm a bit and let the BC do the work.
Believe me you'll love the feel of the stock greddy at its stock 5 or 6 psi, but after a while you'll crave more. I bumped my boost up a little to about 9 but now I'm just waiting to install my EBC where I'll then back off on the actuator arm a bit and let the BC do the work.