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9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread

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Old 09-08-2011, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Damn you and your metric system. Hold on, let me Google it.

Edit: Okay that is a bit cool. I will just have to keep an eye on it I guess.
I'm sure Texas will make a difference ....
Old 09-08-2011, 03:47 PM
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I was thinking this too. Specifically for a turbo application. The warmer it is the more efficient it is (technically speaking). I know there are multiple draw backs from running too hot, but we all know that.
Old 09-08-2011, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
I was thinking this too. Specifically for a turbo application. The warmer it is the more efficient it is (technically speaking). I know there are multiple draw backs from running too hot, but we all know that.
Yeah, but I don't see how the water could ever be tool cool going into the turbo here in Texas. But with winter (if you can call it that) coming up I will see Bypassing my second cooler is easy with the fitting and clamps I used.
Old 09-08-2011, 03:55 PM
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are we there yet?
Old 09-08-2011, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Jedi54
are we there yet?
Insert line here

Old 09-10-2011, 01:34 AM
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At this rate I'll be home to help you put that bad boy back in!
Old 09-11-2011, 09:58 PM
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I installed a water to air intercooler in mine, by having the radiator instead of a full blown IC for cooling Intake Air, i was able to leave half my my current radiator exposed,

this is just a quote from my thread of my finding after installing the Water 2 Air, with sensors pre IC and after IC

Basically pre mods, i saw intake temp at MAF of roughly 12-13 degrees above ambiance at cruise, 40+ at idle.

Now with the AEM it is roughly about 2-3 degree above ambiance and roughly +11 at idle due to hot air blown from fans.

After MAF i saw generally 20-30 degree more in cooling, as i previously had a top mount IC i would not know the comparison against Front Mount IC, but the Water2Air really helped with idle temps and with fans triggered to kick in earlier.

Regards
Jason
Old 09-11-2011, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tofu_box
I installed a water to air intercooler in mine, by having the radiator instead of a full blown IC for cooling Intake Air, i was able to leave half my my current radiator exposed,

this is just a quote from my thread of my finding after installing the Water 2 Air, with sensors pre IC and after IC

Basically pre mods, i saw intake temp at MAF of roughly 12-13 degrees above ambiance at cruise, 40+ at idle.

Now with the AEM it is roughly about 2-3 degree above ambiance and roughly +11 at idle due to hot air blown from fans.

After MAF i saw generally 20-30 degree more in cooling, as i previously had a top mount IC i would not know the comparison against Front Mount IC, but the Water2Air really helped with idle temps and with fans triggered to kick in earlier.

Regards
Jason

Thanks, I will have to look for your build thread, do you have a 4 port AT?
Old 09-13-2011, 12:45 PM
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scott is mia because he is busy installing a turbo
Old 09-13-2011, 01:22 PM
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I seem to be distracting him with my car troubles... I just hope I can return the favor by helping him out somehow lol.
Old 09-13-2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
scott is mia because he is busy installing a turbo
I wish. Turbo is out for delivery today It's been a hell of a wait due to all the delays.

Originally Posted by 8 Maniac
I seem to be distracting him with my car troubles... I just hope I can return the favor by helping him out somehow lol.
I will be enlisting the help of everyone.
Old 09-13-2011, 01:55 PM
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I have my PTO scheduled for my turbo install
Old 09-13-2011, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
I have my PTO scheduled for my turbo install
I can't wait to get into it, I'm just waiting for my turbo, clutch, new oil cooler, and my lotek and then it's on. All of which should be here this week.
Old 09-13-2011, 02:42 PM
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Ha and then I will be there a few weeks after that to help mop up anything outstanding.
Old 09-13-2011, 03:12 PM
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Looky what I got today

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6144567253/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6144567435/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6145118122/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6145118272/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6144601503/

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 09-13-2011 at 03:22 PM.
Old 09-13-2011, 04:53 PM
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Motherfuck. The coolant fittings are on the wrong damn side of the CHRA.
Old 09-13-2011, 04:58 PM
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You can "clock" the center section and the rest of the turbo
Old 09-13-2011, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
You can "clock" the center section and the rest of the turbo
I thought of that but AMR says there is some type of pin that has to be removed?
Old 09-13-2011, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I can't wait to get into it, I'm just waiting for my turbo, clutch, new oil cooler, and my lotek and then it's on. All of which should be here this week.
Looks like it is about to all come together
Old 09-13-2011, 06:23 PM
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'wrong damn side' as in facing toward the manifold when the oil inlet is facing upwards and outlet is facing down?
Old 09-13-2011, 06:39 PM
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Did you get any of your fins clipped?
Old 09-13-2011, 06:48 PM
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Now ....about that wastegate ...........
Old 09-13-2011, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by NgoRX8
'wrong damn side' as in facing toward the manifold when the oil inlet is facing upwards and outlet is facing down?
Yes sir. If I clock it the other way the oil drain will be on top. I shoudl have been more clear in my instructions. However, after fitting it tonight I think I can get it to work with some hard lines so I am making a visit to my favorite hose/fitting place to get some custom fittings and lines made.

Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Did you get any of your fins clipped?
No. What does that do, I have never heard of that?

Originally Posted by Brettus
Now ....about that wastegate ...........
What about it?

Also, I want to replace all teh hardware and studs used on the turbo and manifold. Are SS nuts, bolts, washers, and studs the best to use?
Old 09-13-2011, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Also, I want to replace all teh hardware and studs used on the turbo and manifold. Are SS nuts, bolts, washers, and studs the best to use?
Stainless steel should be more than sufficient as far as strength goes and also offers the benefit of corrosion resistance. Grade 8 steel hardware would be a lot stronger but isn't really necessary because the components you're using them for aren't really under a lot of stress.
Old 09-13-2011, 10:24 PM
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^ Thanks. I fitted the turbo to the manifold and I think if I just clock it a bit I won't have problems getting fittings and hard lines on. I will just have to see what I can do to heat wrap them.


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