9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
09-15-2011, 10:01 PM
#951
Get some Mineral Spirits, it's what's usually used in parts washers.
On a side note, going back to you asking about the stainless steel hardware. Stainless would definitely be the best option, I was looking into it a little more and from what I've read you shouldn't use Grade 8 in that situation, due to the extreme temps and heat cycles of the exhaust system it can cause the steel to harden and become brittle. Stainless steel cannot be hardened so it's better for this use.
On a side note, going back to you asking about the stainless steel hardware. Stainless would definitely be the best option, I was looking into it a little more and from what I've read you shouldn't use Grade 8 in that situation, due to the extreme temps and heat cycles of the exhaust system it can cause the steel to harden and become brittle. Stainless steel cannot be hardened so it's better for this use.
09-15-2011, 10:32 PM
#952
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Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, weird how I didn't find that thread by NYCGPS in my search.
I bought a huge tub to do this in and gloves. I am guessing mineral spirits are my next option.
I bought a huge tub to do this in and gloves. I am guessing mineral spirits are my next option.
09-16-2011, 06:31 AM
#953
Ironically I found it through a Google search. Let me know if your interested in the kerosene, my aunt had 50gals back from Y2K....not sure what she planned to do with it living in Texas and all it would be good for is a heater. I have 15gal here and 30gal at my property in Louisiana.
09-16-2011, 10:02 AM
#954
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Okay, guys. Rob at Pineapple finally had a chance to tear down my old Mazda Reman and the findings are troubling. I will post pics in a few minutes.
Now keep in mind that this motor was premixed and ran the SOHN from almost day one and only had 30,000 miles on it. Also, it ran BHR coils and no cat from break in.
It looks like it was "rebuilt" with used rotor housings from the high amount
of wear to the chrome.
The motor looks like it was run hot. Although the water seals still look ok, the
inner water seal on the back side of the rear rtr. hsg. was flat. The combustion
gases were coloring the housings as they leaked past the seal. There are also signs
of leakage in other locations.
Both housings have large cracks at the lead plug holes. The unique carbon deposits
are classic of a housing with cracks at the plug holes. The size of the cracks also indicates
the housings were reused.
The side seal clearances were fair. Most were in the .006-.009" range.
The grooves had a fair amount of carbon build up.
I have not cleaned up the plates/housing to measure for warpage.
I would say you made the correct choice in not rebuilding this core over buying the
one you did.
of wear to the chrome.
The motor looks like it was run hot. Although the water seals still look ok, the
inner water seal on the back side of the rear rtr. hsg. was flat. The combustion
gases were coloring the housings as they leaked past the seal. There are also signs
of leakage in other locations.
Both housings have large cracks at the lead plug holes. The unique carbon deposits
are classic of a housing with cracks at the plug holes. The size of the cracks also indicates
the housings were reused.
The side seal clearances were fair. Most were in the .006-.009" range.
The grooves had a fair amount of carbon build up.
I have not cleaned up the plates/housing to measure for warpage.
I would say you made the correct choice in not rebuilding this core over buying the
one you did.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 09-16-2011 at 10:04 AM.
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rob babicki (06-22-2021)
09-16-2011, 10:45 AM
#956
wow that sucks..... even though im still under warranty.... i might go this route to, just to get a report back on how the original engine did .... 58000 and counting
09-16-2011, 10:52 AM
#957
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I am awaiting all of the pics, he had trouble attaching them.
Yeah it really makes you question Mazda's quality control. I have always suspected they were reusing subpar parts rather than replacing them. I mean if you are under warranty you are getting it for free but i would never purchase a Mazda reman.
Yeah it really makes you question Mazda's quality control. I have always suspected they were reusing subpar parts rather than replacing them. I mean if you are under warranty you are getting it for free but i would never purchase a Mazda reman.
09-16-2011, 12:01 PM
#959
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
The issues are not specific to just remans, they also found problem in factory built motors.
09-16-2011, 12:20 PM
#960
Meh, Pinapple and other reknown builders were part of a program early on years ago to inspect failures and when they gave suggestions Mazda never responded so they stopped inspecting the motors for them since it was just a waste of time.
The issues are not specific to just remans, they also found problem in factory built motors.
The issues are not specific to just remans, they also found problem in factory built motors.
09-16-2011, 12:29 PM
#961
Speaking of Rob, not sure if all of you are aware but he has an amazing site that shows just what he know. I am versed in rotary mechanics and what not but am probably WAY behind the curve in finding this site, so I apologize in advance, for the rest.... enjoy.
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com/
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com/
09-16-2011, 01:02 PM
#962
9k I got a hold of some industrial parts cleaner/solvent from harbor freight, it will eat through regular vinyl gloves but this crap was a life saver for me. Also use a brass brush its easier on the steel and wont leave as many scars. mineral spirits might work I didn't have any luck with it
Before
After
Before
After
09-16-2011, 01:05 PM
#964
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
9k I got a hold of some industrial solvent from harbor freight, it will eat through regular vinyl gloves but this crap was a life saver for me. Also use a brass brush its easier on the steel and wont leave as many scars. mineral spirits might work I didn't have any luck with it
Thanks dude, the amount of carbon on the SSV and the otehr valves is scary and it is hard as a rock. I was scared to use a wire brush, i will have to grab some brass brushes and solvent.
09-16-2011, 01:10 PM
#965
took me a good 2 hours to get every little bit off. Between scrubbings I'd let them sit in the solvent solution, did the same thing for the rotors. Get the brushes with smaller wooden handles to get inside the the smaller areas, oh yea scotch brite pads are your friend.
the rotors took us about 8 hours, next time I will be using a bench grinder with a brass brush wheel.
the rotors took us about 8 hours, next time I will be using a bench grinder with a brass brush wheel.
09-16-2011, 01:27 PM
#967
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Okay guys, pics 
Still waiting on Rob to let me know how the bearings held up since I can't really tell from the pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673850/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673806/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153126501/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673406/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673244/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125837/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125777/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125759/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153672804/
Not the best resolution but i zoomed in and they appear to have held up pretty well right?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153688222/
Still waiting on Rob to let me know how the bearings held up since I can't really tell from the pics.http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673850/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673806/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153126501/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673406/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153673244/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125837/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125777/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153125759/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153672804/
Not the best resolution but i zoomed in and they appear to have held up pretty well right?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6153688222/
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 09-16-2011 at 01:30 PM.
09-16-2011, 01:49 PM
#968
Administrator
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you did a number on that housing. 
09-16-2011, 01:58 PM
#969
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Thread Starter
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I have a feeling that housing was f!@ked from the get go. I did everything under the sun to maintain this biatch. When my water pump belt busted and cracked my radiator it did overheat but that was a long time ago, I don't know what the hell happened.
And just think, when I parked this motor it was still running reasonably well. Can you imagine if I kept driving it?
And just think, when I parked this motor it was still running reasonably well. Can you imagine if I kept driving it?
09-16-2011, 02:09 PM
#970
Administrator
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09-16-2011, 02:54 PM
#974
just got ur msg 9k,
damn that housing is fuxked + the heat totally killed the seal.
I wonder if they use new housings, ur engine had like 30K on it right? the chrome flaking + the heat mark around the spark plugs seems pretty bad for a 30K old engine.
upon disassemble, even my FC engine with unknown miles looks a lot better than yours, at least mine didn't crack and carbon everywhere.
And it looks like the inner coolant seal was crushed during build, as the rest of the seal seems "ok" it's just that area getting fuxked.
and is that silicone or ? i see some black stuff underneath the coolant seal, carbon maybe ?
The bearing seems fine to me.
hmm, I guess I made the right choice on using Hylomar, I know heat kills it but at least it should make the seals last a little longer.
damn that housing is fuxked + the heat totally killed the seal.
I wonder if they use new housings, ur engine had like 30K on it right? the chrome flaking + the heat mark around the spark plugs seems pretty bad for a 30K old engine.
upon disassemble, even my FC engine with unknown miles looks a lot better than yours, at least mine didn't crack and carbon everywhere.
And it looks like the inner coolant seal was crushed during build, as the rest of the seal seems "ok" it's just that area getting fuxked.
and is that silicone or ? i see some black stuff underneath the coolant seal, carbon maybe ?
The bearing seems fine to me.
hmm, I guess I made the right choice on using Hylomar, I know heat kills it but at least it should make the seals last a little longer.
Last edited by nycgps; 09-16-2011 at 03:00 PM.
09-16-2011, 02:58 PM
#975
took me a good 2 hours to get every little bit off. Between scrubbings I'd let them sit in the solvent solution, did the same thing for the rotors. Get the brushes with smaller wooden handles to get inside the the smaller areas, oh yea scotch brite pads are your friend.
the rotors took us about 8 hours, next time I will be using a bench grinder with a brass brush wheel.
the rotors took us about 8 hours, next time I will be using a bench grinder with a brass brush wheel.
I wouldn't worry too much about the "bowl" area, you get carbon there in just a few hundred miles anyway.