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9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread

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Old 10-11-2011, 10:16 AM
  #1076  
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good thing the motor is out of the car
Old 10-11-2011, 06:53 PM
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well there is always a time to say " I dont know about this?
Broke two bits? On that little bolt? Damn.
That happen to me once on the little clamp thing that holds the clutch slave cylinder and the engine was in the car. What a pain in the *** that was.
A little hint-- buy an electric torque wrench--you are going to need it sooner or later. Catch one on sale or something?
Old 10-12-2011, 07:55 AM
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i broke my master brake bleeder. its still stuck in there with an easy out bit stuck in it too
Old 10-12-2011, 09:20 AM
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Well last night my mechanic friend came over and it was a no go. I don't get it, this is a freshly oiled bolt in a new housing. Pisses me off. I am going to try and slot what is left of the bolt with a some high quality chisels I am picking up today. If that doesn't work then I am just going to drill out the rest and retap it with a bigger bolt and drill out the intake manifold to accommodate a bigger bolt.

Luckily it is on the farthest bolt to the right so if all else fails I'll have the LIM tack welded to the iron on that side I'm actually note even sure it would leak as is but I don't want to take any chances.
Old 10-12-2011, 10:33 AM
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Man what a bummer this has become.
Old 10-12-2011, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
If that doesn't work then I am just going to drill out the rest and retap it with a bigger bolt and drill out the intake manifold to accommodate a bigger bolt.
.
You should fit a helicoil with the correct thread rather than tap out larger .....
Old 10-12-2011, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
Man what a bummer this has become.
Yes it has indeed. You have no idea how something so stupid can take the wind out of your sails.

Originally Posted by Brettus
You should fit a helicoil with the correct thread rather than tap out larger .....
Hmmm had to google that. I will have to see if I can find one locally. Thanks.
Old 10-12-2011, 11:28 AM
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Helicoil would be the way to go for sure.....if it isn't in the car yet take it to a machine shop and get it done.....I think you must have had some debris in the hole...otherwise it should have been easy to get out
Old 10-12-2011, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
Helicoil would be the way to go for sure.....if it isn't in the car yet take it to a machine shop and get it done.....I think you must have had some debris in the hole...otherwise it should have been easy to get out

Yeah I am thinking something was in there.
Old 10-12-2011, 11:56 AM
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Helped my brother helicoil the spark plug hole on his f250. It was the one under the firewall lol. Major bitch. / me relating
Old 10-12-2011, 12:41 PM
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just go to Sears and get a set of Craftsman drill outs--- they cost about $28 or so. They are left handed drills. damn easy outs are too brittle. Esp those made in China
Old 10-12-2011, 01:38 PM
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what he said^^
Old 10-12-2011, 02:08 PM
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Use a hammer and punch to "unfreeze" the bolt, if you can, slot the bolt , it may come out , if not ,drill an appropriate sized hole for an "ezee out bit",all the way thru the bolt heat the surrounding area with a gas axe, spray WD40 into the bolt, this will cause the bolt to shrink a little , and presto ,it "should" come out .
Old 10-12-2011, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
ok here is what has happened to folks concerning this fuel line.
The one I spoke of connects the two fuel rails. They have quick release connectors. Under the quick release connector there is a little red half moon spacer that fits into the end of the fuel line. That spacer is critical for a complete seal.
What CAN happen is the quick connector ( the blue ring thing) can streach out of shape with repeated removal. This allows the little red moon spacer to have room to wiggle. Fuel lines move with varing fuel pressures. If the blue ring is steached enough and it allows the red spacer to wiggle too much you will loose the seal. My incidence happened at Road Atlanta when that connector decided to let go and I lost fuel pressure which leaned the engine out, popping a apex seal. The gas that was on top on the engine was steaming when I pitted. It could have easily caught fire.
Another members car did catch fire and totally burned.
The line can be reused--i never said it couldnt. BUT, if you do secure those quick release rings with a zip tie or worm clap. Once installed the fuel rails etc are all installed you cant see it--dont take a chance with it--just secure the thing. If you want to buy a new one they are not expensive--i think $25 or so.
Yall know if it can happen--it is going to happen to me.
Damn, when I was installing my Fuel Pressure gauge I used the aeromotive fuel line adaptor and connected it to the red quick connect near the brake/clutch fluid reservior. I lost the inside little half moon piece when I disconnected it (lost forever somewhere in my engine bay). I'm going to have to go buy a new quick connect after hearing this story..... I've been checking it frequently though and no fuel leakage what so ever but I do have it double tie wrapped closed and haven't pushed the car a whole bunch yet
Old 10-12-2011, 04:41 PM
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Thanks for the recommendations but I have tried grabits, easy outs, reverse bits using an angle drill, hammers, punches, slotting, and penetrating oil and none of it has worked. The tools I am using are all Matco so I don't see any other brand doing any better, not to mention Craftsman is now made in China as well. Matco has a special reverse bit/easy out thingamajiggy and it actually drille din perfect and bit really hard but when i started backing it out it got stuck like chuck and the bolt would not budge. So I removed it because i did not want to break my buddies expensive matco tool.
Old 10-12-2011, 05:41 PM
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you need a gypsy--its cursed
Old 10-12-2011, 10:27 PM
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Damn that really sucks man, can't believe it wouldn't come out with the impact driver I thought for sure it would I've used those things to remove bolts that require a lot more torque than that bolt

I would just bring it to a machine shop and have them drill and re-tap the hole to avoid any further problems, at this point it's not worth risking damage to an Iron over $100.
Old 10-13-2011, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
but when i started backing it out it got stuck like chuck and the bolt would not budge. So I removed it because i did not want to break my buddies expensive matco tool.
Did you try giving it a shock with a hammer at the same time as trying to undo it? It pushes the threads apart and usually it'll gradually come loose.
Old 10-13-2011, 10:35 AM
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you should post pics!
Old 10-13-2011, 11:39 AM
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muhahahah..... i see the boost in my future... before your future
Old 10-13-2011, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
muhahahah..... i see the boost in my future... before your future
Don't jinx yourself fawker.
Old 10-13-2011, 12:15 PM
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Hey man just thought i would share this with you.

The oil pan you sent me has been modified. It now has an AN fitting welded in for the return line. I am having an AN fitting welded on the oil return tube from the turbo.
Old 10-13-2011, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
Hey man just thought i would share this with you.

The oil pan you sent me has been modified. It now has an AN fitting welded in for the return line. I am having an AN fitting welded on the oil return tube from the turbo.
That sounds good, AN fittings are the way to go.
Old 10-13-2011, 01:08 PM
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yeah man... amazon hose is in my back yard
Old 10-13-2011, 01:13 PM
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You have Amazon hoes in your back yard? Share the wealth


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