9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
10-16-2011, 11:41 AM
#1103
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Nope and Nope. Bought a helicoil but even a cobalt bit could not drill through the remaining bolt. I did get the end of the bolt slotted really well with a chisel and then I tried removing it with the impact hammer and it did not budge. I am defeated, it's going to an engine shop Monday. If they cannot get the remaining bolt out then if possible, I will just have that corner of the LIM tack welded to the housing.
10-16-2011, 03:44 PM
#1108
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10-16-2011, 04:22 PM
#1109
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Not anymore 
I should have just taken it to the engine shop from day one.
I ordered the bit from Grainger (commercial tool supplier) because none of the normal stores carried them in the size I needed(21/64) for the M8x1.25 Helicoil kit. So after that bit didn't work, then I went to Northern Tool and bought a titanuim bit and a cobalt bit and neither of them worked either. All of the bits started to work but quickly dulled even though i was squirting oil as I was drilling.
I should have just taken it to the engine shop from day one.I ordered the bit from Grainger (commercial tool supplier) because none of the normal stores carried them in the size I needed(21/64) for the M8x1.25 Helicoil kit. So after that bit didn't work, then I went to Northern Tool and bought a titanuim bit and a cobalt bit and neither of them worked either. All of the bits started to work but quickly dulled even though i was squirting oil as I was drilling.
10-16-2011, 04:33 PM
#1110
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Drill speed was too high, and/or not enough pressure then, that'll burn up the tip fast. Slow and hard is the rule for drilling bolts out.
The problem is now you'll have work hardened the top of the bolt with the dull drill bits.
The problem is now you'll have work hardened the top of the bolt with the dull drill bits.
10-16-2011, 04:41 PM
#1111
10-16-2011, 10:34 PM
#1113
The problem is now you'll have work hardened the top of the bolt with the dull drill bits
10-17-2011, 10:42 AM
#1118
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Totally, it has been keeping me up at night thinking, "if only I had not turned it that last turn" 
but I'm trying to keep a positive attitude. I have learned a lot though and the next time i do this it will be a lot easier.
The engine is pretty light, about 180lbs. What hours do you typically work? Thanks!
but I'm trying to keep a positive attitude. I have learned a lot though and the next time i do this it will be a lot easier.The engine is pretty light, about 180lbs. What hours do you typically work? Thanks!
10-17-2011, 10:49 AM
#1119
Totally, it has been keeping me up at night thinking, "if only I had not turned it that last turn" but I'm trying to keep a positive attitude. I have learned a lot though and the next time i do this it will be a lot easier.
The engine is pretty light, about 180lbs. What hours do you typically work? Thanks!
but I'm trying to keep a positive attitude. I have learned a lot though and the next time i do this it will be a lot easier.The engine is pretty light, about 180lbs. What hours do you typically work? Thanks!
I am supposed to work 8-5 but I regularly show up at 9 and leave a 2....
...what I am saying is I am completely flexible (no one manages me and it all pays the same)
10-17-2011, 11:03 AM
#1120
[QUOTE=9krpmrx8;4103435]Totally, it has been keeping me up at night thinking, "if only I had not turned it that last turn" but I'm trying to keep a positive attitude. I have learned a lot though and the next time i do this it will be a lot easier.[QUOTE]
yea, make all these mistakes now so when I need your help all the bugs are worked out
but I'm trying to keep a positive attitude. I have learned a lot though and the next time i do this it will be a lot easier.[QUOTE]yea, make all these mistakes now so when I need your help all the bugs are worked out
Last edited by houstonrx8er; 10-17-2011 at 11:24 AM.
10-17-2011, 11:37 AM
#1121
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I don't know how good you are with a grinder, but if you have the skill to hand sharpen drill bits yourself, then go and get a carbide tipped masonry bit, and sharpen it with a grinder to as close as you can to metal geometery - go for a split end and a 135* point though to push through that hardened section.
10-17-2011, 11:42 AM
#1122
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I don't know how good you are with a grinder, but if you have the skill to hand sharpen drill bits yourself, then go and get a carbide tipped masonry bit, and sharpen it with a grinder to as close as you can to metal geometery - go for a split end and a 135* point though to push through that hardened section.
10-17-2011, 11:53 AM
#1123
If you want to try I have an aluminum oxide grinding wheel and know how to sharpen bits by hand, I can bring it over and we can take a few stabs at it before shipping it off for "3rd party support". (I could do that this evening if you want).
just let me know
10-18-2011, 05:35 PM
#1125
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I am game for what ever, I have meetings tomorrow morning but am free in the afternoon, mostly free wednesday...thursday and friday are booked.
If you want to try I have an aluminum oxide grinding wheel and know how to sharpen bits by hand, I can bring it over and we can take a few stabs at it before shipping it off for "3rd party support". (I could do that this evening if you want).
just let me know
If you want to try I have an aluminum oxide grinding wheel and know how to sharpen bits by hand, I can bring it over and we can take a few stabs at it before shipping it off for "3rd party support". (I could do that this evening if you want).
just let me know
Thanks man, I missed this post. If you are free tomorrow afternoon that would be cool, I can leave work early and we can take it by the engine shop (duffin by the airport). I live at I-10 and Callaghan near castle hills so it's not too far.