9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
#1664
Turbo Member
iTrader: (10)
most dont but the company that did mine coated the inside of my dp, not my mani. We even chatted about this when I dropped them off there. I was shocked that the guy had any knowledge at all about rotary cars. he was saying that with the very high temps that our cars run he would advise not to coat the inside of the mani bc it may flake and end up in the turbo. he did, however, recommend coating the inside of the DP to keep it somewhat cooler
#1666
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Ok well maybe I am being a worry wart. I'll button her up tonight, pull her out of the garage and let her run for a while. It's a good thing my garage has a rear door otherwise people would have called the fire department.
#1670
Registered
iTrader: (3)
oh you are coated?
that makes a little difference
Drive the dang thing dude--if it doesnt clear in a day or so....then worry.
Meanwhile just keep an eye on the coolant level.
If the ambient temps get below 70F you may not need that secondary radiator until it gets hot again.
zoom--zoom
that makes a little difference
Drive the dang thing dude--if it doesnt clear in a day or so....then worry.
Meanwhile just keep an eye on the coolant level.
If the ambient temps get below 70F you may not need that secondary radiator until it gets hot again.
zoom--zoom
#1671
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Change of plans.
I just spoke with a tech at ATP and he broke it down for me an basically told me that it is due to excessive crankcase pressure and that I need to properly diagnose the issue before I start adding restrictors. So I will fit a different catch can tonight and then I need to measure the pressure of the oil that the oil feed line is seeing.
Check out what he said
I just spoke with a tech at ATP and he broke it down for me an basically told me that it is due to excessive crankcase pressure and that I need to properly diagnose the issue before I start adding restrictors. So I will fit a different catch can tonight and then I need to measure the pressure of the oil that the oil feed line is seeing.
Check out what he said
The most common cause of oil leakage on a perfectly good turbo (called a "forced leak") is due to excessive crankcase pressure. Since your oil drain tube carries returned oil into the crankcase of the engine, it relies on gravity to carry that oil from the bottom of the oil drain port seamlessly into the engine crankcase. If for whatever reason, you are building an excessive amount of crankcase pressure and are trapping that pressure in the crankcase with inadequate ventilation, the "pressure" will send itself up the oil drain tube into the bottom of turbo. Since there is no gravity left to carry the incoming oil out of the turbo bearing housing, the oil is forced to leak into the housing and it then gets burned in exhaust and the result is smoke as you have experienced.
In most cases, people put on restrictors to "mask" the real problem.
Less oil goes in, less leak or chance of leak. But also less oil into the bearings risking possible starvation.
In most cases, people put on restrictors to "mask" the real problem.
Less oil goes in, less leak or chance of leak. But also less oil into the bearings risking possible starvation.
To begin to properly troubleshoot the oil pressure vs oil drain issue, you have to measure the oil pressure during turbo/engine operation, but the measurement point is inside the restrictor (between the oil restrictor and the turbo bearing system). This will give you the net actual pressure taking into account pressure drop caused by the current restrictor. See if that oil pressure curve across the engine rpm is inline with what that turbo needs (per turbo manufacture) for properly lubrication.
Otherwise, we don't recommend blindingly adding restrictors of various sizes. It's all a shot in the dark.
Otherwise, we don't recommend blindingly adding restrictors of various sizes. It's all a shot in the dark.
#1673
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Okay, so I just got off the phone with Rob at pineapple and he said I need to drive it, he said it is the coating, the residual junk in my exhaust from the coolant seal failure, engine assembly lube, etc. And he said that at idle it will not get hot enough to burn off. He also went over the crankcase ventilation and vacuum hose routing and I have everything correct so I should be good to go.