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9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread

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Old 12-01-2011, 10:08 AM
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It reduces but does not go away. Coolant temps were about 165F or so when I shut it down.
Old 12-01-2011, 10:29 AM
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several things... are you ceramic coated? did you use heat wrap? did the smoke smell sweet?
Old 12-01-2011, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
several things... are you ceramic coated? did you use heat wrap? did the smoke smell sweet?
Damn didn't think of that. Yes I am ceramic coated, no heat wrap, the smoke did not smell sweet, it smelled like usual non catted rotary.
Old 12-01-2011, 10:39 AM
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ok 165 is not fully warmed up. your ceramic coat will take a while to fully cure. thats your smoke culprit.
Old 12-01-2011, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Damn didn't think of that. Yes I am ceramic coated, no heat wrap, the smoke did not smell sweet, it smelled like usual non catted rotary.
where is the smoke coming from? exhaust or engine bay
Old 12-01-2011, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
ok 165 is not fully warmed up. your ceramic coat will take a while to fully cure. thats your smoke culprit.

Yeah it took a while to get to 165F too. The secondary radiator is not thermostatically controlled so it is cooling all the time.

Thanks!
Old 12-01-2011, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
where is the smoke coming from? exhaust or engine bay
Exhaust pipes.
Old 12-01-2011, 11:33 AM
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I wouldn't worry about it too much start your breakin and if it's still smoking. If you still got smoke after 2 weeks I would be worried.
Old 12-01-2011, 11:36 AM
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Yeah I am going to pick up a check valve at lunch from Grainger, install it, and then driver her tonight. The part I need help on is putting the hood back on
Old 12-01-2011, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Exhaust pipes.
is the inside of your dp or mani coated?
Old 12-01-2011, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
is the inside of your dp or mani coated?
I'm not sure about the insides, they both came coated when I bought the kit from Teamrx8.
Old 12-01-2011, 11:53 AM
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ah. there is a good chance that the smoke is coming from the cure. You will have to get the car fully warmed and running for a bit before that cure is finished.
Old 12-01-2011, 12:28 PM
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It was done prior to my purchase, but most companies usually don't coat the inside.
Old 12-01-2011, 12:36 PM
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most dont but the company that did mine coated the inside of my dp, not my mani. We even chatted about this when I dropped them off there. I was shocked that the guy had any knowledge at all about rotary cars. he was saying that with the very high temps that our cars run he would advise not to coat the inside of the mani bc it may flake and end up in the turbo. he did, however, recommend coating the inside of the DP to keep it somewhat cooler
Old 12-01-2011, 12:38 PM
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Mine smoked for a good 15 min when I started it the first time. There is a lot of stuff to burn off
Old 12-01-2011, 01:22 PM
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Ok well maybe I am being a worry wart. I'll button her up tonight, pull her out of the garage and let her run for a while. It's a good thing my garage has a rear door otherwise people would have called the fire department.
Old 12-01-2011, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Ok well maybe I am being a worry wart. I'll button her up tonight, pull her out of the garage and let her run for a while. It's a good thing my garage has a rear door otherwise people would have called the fire department.
The cherry is popped, it gets better every time after
Old 12-01-2011, 02:13 PM
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Damn near choked on my lunch with that one
Old 12-01-2011, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
The cherry is popped, it gets better every time after

This build has been interesting to say the least. It makes me miss my CRX, things were so simple and cheap.
Old 12-01-2011, 03:18 PM
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oh you are coated?
that makes a little difference
Drive the dang thing dude--if it doesnt clear in a day or so....then worry.
Meanwhile just keep an eye on the coolant level.
If the ambient temps get below 70F you may not need that secondary radiator until it gets hot again.
zoom--zoom
Old 12-01-2011, 05:00 PM
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Change of plans.

I just spoke with a tech at ATP and he broke it down for me an basically told me that it is due to excessive crankcase pressure and that I need to properly diagnose the issue before I start adding restrictors. So I will fit a different catch can tonight and then I need to measure the pressure of the oil that the oil feed line is seeing.

Check out what he said

The most common cause of oil leakage on a perfectly good turbo (called a "forced leak") is due to excessive crankcase pressure. Since your oil drain tube carries returned oil into the crankcase of the engine, it relies on gravity to carry that oil from the bottom of the oil drain port seamlessly into the engine crankcase. If for whatever reason, you are building an excessive amount of crankcase pressure and are trapping that pressure in the crankcase with inadequate ventilation, the "pressure" will send itself up the oil drain tube into the bottom of turbo. Since there is no gravity left to carry the incoming oil out of the turbo bearing housing, the oil is forced to leak into the housing and it then gets burned in exhaust and the result is smoke as you have experienced.

In most cases, people put on restrictors to "mask" the real problem.
Less oil goes in, less leak or chance of leak. But also less oil into the bearings risking possible starvation.
To begin to properly troubleshoot the oil pressure vs oil drain issue, you have to measure the oil pressure during turbo/engine operation, but the measurement point is inside the restrictor (between the oil restrictor and the turbo bearing system). This will give you the net actual pressure taking into account pressure drop caused by the current restrictor. See if that oil pressure curve across the engine rpm is inline with what that turbo needs (per turbo manufacture) for properly lubrication.

Otherwise, we don't recommend blindingly adding restrictors of various sizes. It's all a shot in the dark.
Old 12-01-2011, 05:22 PM
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my money is still on coatings/oil burning off.
Old 12-01-2011, 05:48 PM
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Okay, so I just got off the phone with Rob at pineapple and he said I need to drive it, he said it is the coating, the residual junk in my exhaust from the coolant seal failure, engine assembly lube, etc. And he said that at idle it will not get hot enough to burn off. He also went over the crankcase ventilation and vacuum hose routing and I have everything correct so I should be good to go.
Old 12-01-2011, 07:04 PM
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Just drive the ******* thing already
Old 12-01-2011, 07:23 PM
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newbies gotta n00b ...


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