9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
#1776
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I could take that both as a compliment or an insult. Far from a noob and just because I refuse to post in the nonsense of this forum to up my post count, that does not place me at the bottom of the totem pole. I lurk, and have always done so almost everyday since I've signed up.
Regardless, I saw how everyone was in search of a misfire (at light throttle no less), and you guys would've have torn your hair out trying to diagnosis that.
These have been very old topics that could have been found during Search, as you just found out. I'm surprised you guys aren't searching as much as you're telling noobs to search.
Anyways, off-topic, now fix that stuck APV issue via dannobre's method and get boosting. You may want to apply voltage to the motor manually to see if it works. Or cycle the key, as the APV does a check whenever it is cycled off (Car does not have to be running). Disconnect the others valves or use a sethoscope to listen for it.
Regardless, I saw how everyone was in search of a misfire (at light throttle no less), and you guys would've have torn your hair out trying to diagnosis that.
These have been very old topics that could have been found during Search, as you just found out. I'm surprised you guys aren't searching as much as you're telling noobs to search.
Anyways, off-topic, now fix that stuck APV issue via dannobre's method and get boosting. You may want to apply voltage to the motor manually to see if it works. Or cycle the key, as the APV does a check whenever it is cycled off (Car does not have to be running). Disconnect the others valves or use a sethoscope to listen for it.
K.I.S.S.
I will check out the APV and get that issue resolved, hopefully It'd an easy fix. Thanks for the help redlined, appreciate it.
#1777
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
my n00b reference to 9k was WRT him not following basic misfire troubleshooting procedures that are so prominently discussed and detailed on the forum, as well as just gigging him with the best of humorous intentions. The idea that somebody had to blatantly point it out to him is a bit mind boggling
that was another gig btw but implying that someone who has a high post count got it with the intention of making posts to get it there is no different than implying that someone has no clue just because they have a low post count.
that was another gig btw but implying that someone who has a high post count got it with the intention of making posts to get it there is no different than implying that someone has no clue just because they have a low post count.
#1778
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Where do you guy think I should get the signal for my boost gauge (s)? I want to use the one in the goodbox as well as the prosport. I have the BOV to the nipple behind the TB on the UIM, I was thinking of tapping the C6 pipe (I have old kit, it's not tapped), what do you guys think?
#1782
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Just tee into the same nipple line, but do it close to the nipple
Alternatively and probably the smarter route is to tap a multi-port manifold into the UIM and run them all from there. Tapping numerous connections all over the place is just setting yourself up for troubleshooting issues.
Of course some lines require tapping at a different specific location as noted and noted in numerous Greddy turbo threads. Not that anybody needs to blatantly point this out
.
Alternatively and probably the smarter route is to tap a multi-port manifold into the UIM and run them all from there. Tapping numerous connections all over the place is just setting yourself up for troubleshooting issues.
Of course some lines require tapping at a different specific location as noted and noted in numerous Greddy turbo threads. Not that anybody needs to blatantly point this out
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 12-06-2011 at 01:32 AM.
#1789
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Are you like the new and improved version of MazdaEgoManiac now?
#1790
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Thanks for the reply guys, I searched the various Greddy threads but by 2AM I was more confused than anything else, especially after reading the boost controller thread and the back an forth between everyone.
I will be running a manual boost controller for now. After thinking about it maybe one gauge is enough. I think I'll use the Good Box and then use the extra space in my pod for an EGT gauge.
I will be running a manual boost controller for now. After thinking about it maybe one gauge is enough. I think I'll use the Good Box and then use the extra space in my pod for an EGT gauge.
#1796
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
I have an opinion formed from having some experience in this subject ,and I want to help others , that is all . Kind of like what this whole forum is supposed to be about.
Having a gauge on the turbo and comparing it to the one on the UIM can help determine :
1/if your BOV is operating correctly .My guess is that of all the 8 turbo set-ups out there , over half of them will suffer from a a BOV that does not work properly. You would be amazed at the number of people that think the noise they hear when they let off the throttle is the BOV when in fact it is compressor surge .
2/If your part throttle boost is excessive - again a huge % of set-ups will suffer from this affliction . Downright dangerous.
3/what the pressure drop/efficiency of your system is and if making improvements does anything to help that.
4/If your turbo is reaching its maximum potential .
Useful or not ?
Last edited by Brettus; 12-06-2011 at 01:18 PM.
#1798
SPOOLN8
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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^ Depending on the BOV.... Mine (HKS VTA) will still relieve pressure even under vacuum.... basically it should relieve any time the pressure is greater in the charge pipe than the UIM; meaning if there is less vacuum in the charge pipe compared to the UIM (which happens alot) it should still expel that excess flow.
If your not sure if it is set up correctly make sure you don't release your throttle instantly; slowly back off the throttle while your load decreases until throttle is at 0% then your BOV will not need to expel air and your engine will consume most of it. But get that BOV set-up properly ASAP because even without reaching positive pressure it is still doing work.
If your not sure if it is set up correctly make sure you don't release your throttle instantly; slowly back off the throttle while your load decreases until throttle is at 0% then your BOV will not need to expel air and your engine will consume most of it. But get that BOV set-up properly ASAP because even without reaching positive pressure it is still doing work.
#1800
SPOOLN8
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1/if your BOV is operating correctly .My guess is that of all the 8 turbo set-ups out there , over half of them will suffer from a a BOV that does not work properly. You would be amazed at the number of people that think the noise they hear when they let off the throttle is the BOV when in fact it is compressor surge .
.
.
See now this gets me thinking.... at the end of the fall before we parked our cars my roommate blew the bearing on his turbo (also uses SSQV on an SRT-4 Set-up) ..... it got me thinking about the flutter sound I sometimes hear when I release the throttle when I'm at very small boost levels and part throttle only (between -5inhg and 1-2psi). I took him for a spin to see if he was hearing the same thing on his car but he said it wasnt the same sound. I don't hear the flutter at larger boost levels (greater than 2 psi); just a smooth gust of air releasing like you'd expect; so I was lead to believe that it is just my BOV fluttering... Wish there was another Turbo 8 anywhere near me so I could listen but alas that is not the case..... Any input about that Brett....
Although I did find a Job posting for a Canadian company starting a division down in Pheonix that I am going to apply for
I'll have to get a video when I take my car to the body shop in Jan.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 12-07-2011 at 09:25 AM.