Notices
Series I Major Horsepower Upgrades This is the place to discuss Super Chargers and Turbos, Nitrous, Porting, etc

9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rate Thread
 
Old 12-11-2011, 07:49 PM
  #1901  
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
 
TeamRX8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 26,785
Received 2,040 Likes on 1,663 Posts
I said pressure in the manifold, which I assumed he meant when he posted that. Normally the manifold would be under vacuum at part throttle and low or no vacuum under WOT for an NA engine. Though it could go slightly positive with high efficiency from intake pulse tuning, but I doubt it is 1 psig and it would be it's highest at the TQ peak on an NA engine which for me is at 7000 rpm. I was just making an assumption in general. It would really come down to the MAF reading at 1 psig boost vs NA WOT at the same moment, so I could be wrong (and probably am). The point is he should still be careful during break-in regardless. That's why he's breaking it in to begin with.

if he has the data at that point I could compare it to my own.


.

Last edited by TeamRX8; 12-11-2011 at 07:59 PM.
Old 12-11-2011, 10:06 PM
  #1902  
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
 
Brettus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Y-cat-o NZ
Posts: 20,537
Received 1,500 Likes on 847 Posts
Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
I will upgrade the turbo one day. There is more to upgrading the turbo than just a bigger turbo.
Depends - most guys will never make enough power to need anything other than what they already have .


Originally Posted by RWD+LSD=Zoom
Wouldnt want a Crap bov on that either
It's not weather the bov is cheap or not - it's weather it is set up properly . Most aren't - as we have already discovered in this thread .

Last edited by Brettus; 12-11-2011 at 10:18 PM.
Old 12-11-2011, 11:43 PM
  #1903  
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
 
9krpmrx8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33,784
Received 454 Likes on 368 Posts
Yeah I really have been taking it easy. I have been monitoring Absolute Load and I have not gone above 50 so I think I am okay. But either way I'm not pushing it. I actually measured oil pressure today at the turbo and it was way too high (as high as 70 psi during normal driving) so I went ahead an installed the restrictor from ATP because when I redline the pressure will be way too much. The pressure with the restrictor maxed out at about 40 psi so it definitely works and I should be okay with max psi at redline (I hope).
Old 12-12-2011, 12:02 AM
  #1904  
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
 
TeamRX8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 26,785
Received 2,040 Likes on 1,663 Posts
What was the MAF reading?
Old 12-12-2011, 12:06 AM
  #1905  
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
 
9krpmrx8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33,784
Received 454 Likes on 368 Posts
TX

Originally Posted by TeamRX8
What was the MAF reading?

I'll have to look, not high though IIRC.

Question:

How do you measure crankcase pressure?
Old 12-12-2011, 02:50 AM
  #1906  
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
 
TeamRX8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 26,785
Received 2,040 Likes on 1,663 Posts
unfortunately it is not that accessible for the average joe, it usually is employed on a race engine dyno


http://www.taylordyno.com/catalog/dy...s/blowby-meter

http://www.aa1car.com/library/engine_blowby.htm
Old 12-12-2011, 09:23 AM
  #1907  
Registered
iTrader: (3)
 
olddragger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: macon, georgia
Posts: 10,828
Likes: 0
Received 38 Likes on 27 Posts
are you concerned about blow by?
doesnt the oil pressure restrictor also affect volumne of flow to the turbo? Is that OK? Probably is, I am just lurking and trying to learn a little about turbos.
Even when you are not in boost--think about what is happening in the intake, it is much different than NA. Thats why the car feels stronger than na even without any boost showing on your gauge.
Dont go just by a/f's concerning gas. Your intake charge temperature, engine temperature and your true octane/timing all have a very important affect. If you are going to hang in the boost much--you need a better gas than pump and with a higher octane.
Only options I know ( I dont like w/m to control octane)
1- xylene
2- toluene
3-Torco accellerator
4- race gas
Thats it.

Are you running the oem sparkplugs--or have you gotten the colder versions?
I have never had much luck with the rx7 barless type--they just dont last very long for me. I have the step colder denso's and use an ultrasonic cleaning machine to bring them back when needed--it has worked so far.

Now keep that thing straight in the road
.
Old 12-12-2011, 09:50 AM
  #1908  
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
 
TeamRX8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 26,785
Received 2,040 Likes on 1,663 Posts
I would recommend the NGK R6725 rotary race plugs. You can get them in 9, 10, 10.5, 11, and 11.5 heat ranges.
Old 12-12-2011, 10:15 AM
  #1909  
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
 
9krpmrx8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33,784
Received 454 Likes on 368 Posts
Thanks. I have been reading a lot on turbo oil feed, drain, and crank case pressure.

I searched a bit here and I see some discussion on restrictors and the oil drain but it does not appear anyone else has actually tested to insure the turbo is getting the proper amount of oil as outlined by the manufacturer. I mean my engine should see almost 130PSI at red line (I'm guessing based on what my last motor saw with the Mazmart oil pressure mod) so that is twice what a typical journal bearing turbo should see max. So what is that doing to a Greddy turbo that should only see 66PSI maximum oil pressure?

Everything I have read has stated a restrictor should only be used as a last resort and that the drain and crank case pressure should be looked at first and that properly designed system should not need a restrictor. That said, restrictors have been used from the factory in some Mitsubishi's. I found some oil in my charge pipe so I am going to have get a catch can after all.
Old 12-12-2011, 10:22 AM
  #1910  
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
 
9krpmrx8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33,784
Received 454 Likes on 368 Posts
TX

Originally Posted by olddragger
are you concerned about blow by?
doesnt the oil pressure restrictor also affect volumne of flow to the turbo? Is that OK? Probably is, I am just lurking and trying to learn a little about turbos.
Even when you are not in boost--think about what is happening in the intake, it is much different than NA. Thats why the car feels stronger than na even without any boost showing on your gauge.
Dont go just by a/f's concerning gas. Your intake charge temperature, engine temperature and your true octane/timing all have a very important affect. If you are going to hang in the boost much--you need a better gas than pump and with a higher octane.
Only options I know ( I dont like w/m to control octane)
1- xylene
2- toluene
3-Torco accellerator
4- race gas
Thats it.

Are you running the oem sparkplugs--or have you gotten the colder versions?
I have never had much luck with the rx7 barless type--they just dont last very long for me. I have the step colder denso's and use an ultrasonic cleaning machine to bring them back when needed--it has worked so far.

Now keep that thing straight in the road
.
I am running stock plugs but I am researching which combo is best. My engine temps are in the 170F range and the cool tape around my intake seems to be working great because my IAT's are always within 15 degrees of ambient.

Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I would recommend the NGK R6725 rotary race plugs. You can get them in 9, 10, 10.5, 11, and 11.5 heat ranges.
Which combo do you recommend? I have read several different opinions but I am still confused as to which is best.
Old 12-12-2011, 11:14 AM
  #1911  
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
 
9krpmrx8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33,784
Received 454 Likes on 368 Posts
Grungepup just had a great idea, to use my SOHN reservoir as a catch can. I don't see any bad side effects, thoughts?
Old 12-12-2011, 11:35 AM
  #1912  
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
 
shadycrew31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Burbs,PA
Posts: 5,806
Received 31 Likes on 22 Posts
well I've always been against running synthetic without a sohn... thats just me though

can you epoxy your cheapo catch can to make it air tight?
Old 12-12-2011, 11:43 AM
  #1913  
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
 
9krpmrx8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33,784
Received 454 Likes on 368 Posts
TX

Originally Posted by shadycrew31
well I've always been against running synthetic without a sohn... thats just me though

can you epoxy your cheapo catch can to make it air tight?
I will run synthetic and idemitsu in the SOHN reservoir. Having occasionally engine oil go into the SOHN reservoir won't hurt anything. And you don't want the catch can air tight, that will cause excessive crank case pressure. The problem with my cheapy catch can is that it does not vent enough because the fitting are too small.
Old 12-12-2011, 11:47 AM
  #1914  
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
 
shadycrew31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Burbs,PA
Posts: 5,806
Received 31 Likes on 22 Posts
hmm I always thought it was supposed to be air tight becuase it routes back to the intake...
Old 12-12-2011, 12:00 PM
  #1915  
Lucky #33
iTrader: (4)
 
hoss -05's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: San Antonio, SARX Garage
Posts: 2,851
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
With boost you need to run a check valve if you run the line to the intake from the can. You dont want to pressurize your system.

Dose your pump pressurize your crank case?
Old 12-12-2011, 12:07 PM
  #1916  
Turbo Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 2,496
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 10 Posts
^ what, you dont see boost from a pre turbo vacuum nipple, It will always be vacuum... I may be misunderstanding what your trying to say hoss, but you should not need a check valve for the catch can
Old 12-12-2011, 12:09 PM
  #1917  
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
 
9krpmrx8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33,784
Received 454 Likes on 368 Posts
TX

Originally Posted by shadycrew31
hmm I always thought it was supposed to be air tight becuase it routes back to the intake...
Yes, if you route it back to your intake from the catch can that is correct.

Originally Posted by hoss -05
With boost you need to run a check valve if you run the line to the intake from the can. You dont want to pressurize your system.

Dose your pump pressurize your crank case?
You mean one way from the oil filler tube to the intake? No, there is no return pressure there. The pump may pressurize it a bit I guess.
Old 12-12-2011, 12:13 PM
  #1918  
Lucky #33
iTrader: (4)
 
hoss -05's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: San Antonio, SARX Garage
Posts: 2,851
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Yes, if you route it back to your intake from the catch can that is correct.



You mean one way from the oil filler tube to the intake? No, there is no return pressure there. The pump may pressurize it a bit I guess.
lol sorry! you guys are right.. its late here and I am only half paying attention. Yeah that is the one I was talking about 9k. If your pump adds anymore pressure I can see how it could cause more then normal oil build up.
Old 12-12-2011, 01:03 PM
  #1919  
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
 
Brettus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Y-cat-o NZ
Posts: 20,537
Received 1,500 Likes on 847 Posts
BUR9EQP in leading and stock trailing is the proven plug combination for street driven turbo RX8s

As OD mentioned the BUR9s don't last long - but they are very cheap . I change mine at each oil change (8000kms).
Old 12-12-2011, 01:20 PM
  #1920  
Turbo Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 2,496
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 10 Posts
so you just change out the leading plugs every oil change?
Old 12-12-2011, 01:24 PM
  #1921  
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
 
shadycrew31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Burbs,PA
Posts: 5,806
Received 31 Likes on 22 Posts
I wonder if we can get a good price if we order in bulk...

Scott ill go halfsies with you on a case.
Old 12-12-2011, 01:24 PM
  #1922  
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
 
Brettus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Y-cat-o NZ
Posts: 20,537
Received 1,500 Likes on 847 Posts
/\ well , I actually run The BUR9s in the trailing as well . So I change the leading each oil change and the trailing every 2nd oil change because they last longer in the trailing position.

At $7.00 odd per plug it is still more economical than using iridium plugs .

Last edited by Brettus; 12-12-2011 at 01:27 PM.
Old 12-12-2011, 02:45 PM
  #1923  
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
 
9krpmrx8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33,784
Received 454 Likes on 368 Posts
TX

Originally Posted by shadycrew31
I wonder if we can get a good price if we order in bulk...

Scott ill go halfsies with you on a case.
Let's do it (but after christmas ).
Old 12-12-2011, 03:13 PM
  #1924  
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
 
shadycrew31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Burbs,PA
Posts: 5,806
Received 31 Likes on 22 Posts
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Let's do it (but after christmas ).
hahaha I'm down.
Old 12-12-2011, 03:15 PM
  #1925  
Pew Pew Pew
iTrader: (10)
 
J8635621's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Waco
Posts: 6,344
Received 128 Likes on 89 Posts
Shoulda said no homo


You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Quick Reply: 9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:21 PM.