9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
#2026
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Yeah I am awaiting his response VIA email to see what he thinks. Hopefully it's that simple and the oil in the intake is just a coincidence. I kind of doubt that though.
#2027
Illudium Q-36 Space Moderator
iTrader: (1)
when you scale you start with the low rpms and work your way up. But when Kane scales he takes everything from the point of manipulation on up when he scales so the higher you go (more fuel injectors kick in) the worse the top end gets... until you fine tune it that is Kane will get you there very soon
The oil is a separate issue.
This is also why I say no-no to boosting stuff while we tune. The variables start to add up and you can't really tell why is is bogging rich.
#2028
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Well there you have it. But I am not seeing boost when I get this, could something me causing me to go into boost early?. I may need to get a second boost gauge to test against my Goodbox to make sure it is reading right. I guess I will have to take the no hills route home
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 12-28-2011 at 01:13 PM.
#2029
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
New catch can (sorry for crappy cell pics).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6594683869/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6594921363/
The inlet is a large orifice hat feeds down into the filter/baffles (not sure what the material is, almost feels like stone) then the outlet is the two small holes that feed vapors back into the intake. The guy at Jeg's said this used on big block race engines so it should have no problem dealing with a turboed rotaries crankcase pressure. We will see.
Oh, and the mounting brackets can be situated in all four directions to facilitate mounting.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6594683869/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/6594921363/
The inlet is a large orifice hat feeds down into the filter/baffles (not sure what the material is, almost feels like stone) then the outlet is the two small holes that feed vapors back into the intake. The guy at Jeg's said this used on big block race engines so it should have no problem dealing with a turboed rotaries crankcase pressure. We will see.
Oh, and the mounting brackets can be situated in all four directions to facilitate mounting.
#2030
Turbo Member
iTrader: (10)
Well there you have it. But I am not seeing boost when I get this, could something me causing me to go into boost early?. I may need to get a second boost gauge to test against my Goodbox to make sure it is reading right. I guess I will have to take the no hills route home
#2034
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Its an air line water trap for compressors. The inlet feeds air to the outside of the filter,the exit is through the center of the filter. About $20. from most tool stores.
#2036
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Thanks for illustrating why I would never buy an engine without having the builder break it in on their engine dyno, which in turn is why I would never buy an engine from a builder who cannot validate their work prior to sending it to me. That's not to say there is anything wrong with this engine or the builder, but rather to stress that the engine would be broken in entirely NA on a strict regimen and under the control and watchful eye of the builder. It also provides some measure of reassurance when trying to diagnose something like this. If you go through all the trouble of installing a new engine, and then have to turn around and yank it out again, the additional cost will seem irrelevant particularly in light of all the advantages.
#2038
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
UPDATE:
The bogging is gone and Kane is the man. I realize everyday that I still have many years of learning ahead of me. Let the tuning continue That is all.
#2039
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
great news 9k. now finish breaking it in
#2041
I had an instance where my oil can filled up too, I bet when you where driving up hill your oil filled the dipstick check tube, therefor when your turbo was sucking in air it was creating a vacuum in your oil pan and started sucking up oil. this is what happened to me, I had overfilled my oil because I had drained the oil from the coolers and thought it would need extra on my first start.
I got my oil/water separator from home depot, its an black aluminum body with a glass container with the aluminum case, something like 35$. good luck!!
I got my oil/water separator from home depot, its an black aluminum body with a glass container with the aluminum case, something like 35$. good luck!!
#2042
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Not yet, I'm at about 600 miles.
Yeah hopefully my oil in the intake issues are gone.
I had an instance where my oil can filled up too, I bet when you where driving up hill your oil filled the dipstick check tube, therefor when your turbo was sucking in air it was creating a vacuum in your oil pan and started sucking up oil. this is what happened to me, I had overfilled my oil because I had drained the oil from the coolers and thought it would need extra on my first start.
I got my oil/water separator from home depot, its an black aluminum body with a glass container with the aluminum case, something like 35$. good luck!!
I got my oil/water separator from home depot, its an black aluminum body with a glass container with the aluminum case, something like 35$. good luck!!
#2044
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Okay guys, I need some input. I am thinking ahead and I think I want to go with a Comp oil less turbo. The benefits are obvious and although these turbos have not been out too long, they are doing great from what I have read. That said, I found no info specific to Rotaries.
Anyway, I have been talking to Comp and basically what we have come up with is that they can take their oil less CHRA and use the Greddy turbine housing (and I am guess compressor housing) to give me a great oil less turbo. No worries about oil feed, drain, scavenge, etc.
Thoughts? Ideas on trim size, etc.?
Anyway, I have been talking to Comp and basically what we have come up with is that they can take their oil less CHRA and use the Greddy turbine housing (and I am guess compressor housing) to give me a great oil less turbo. No worries about oil feed, drain, scavenge, etc.
Thoughts? Ideas on trim size, etc.?
#2045
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
20g, get your compressor housing honed like mine.
Its a fairly common size, the 1618z is a 20g turbine and 18g compressor.
I don't like dicking with trim sizes, I know what the stock wheels were and I went slightly bigger.
Brettus can give you better info.
Its a fairly common size, the 1618z is a 20g turbine and 18g compressor.
I don't like dicking with trim sizes, I know what the stock wheels were and I went slightly bigger.
Brettus can give you better info.
Last edited by shadycrew31; 01-05-2012 at 09:28 AM.
#2049
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Macgyverizing is what gets me in trouble My current setup is finally working well, but for a minute at start up I am burning oil because oil is draining back down into the turbo after shutdown even if I do let the pump run for a minute after shutdown. It's common knowledge I know, but the oil drain has to point straight up and down in order to avoid issues. That said, from what AMR says, and what I have read on a few turbo builder sites, the oil burning is not an issue as long as it is not burning once running, which it is not. It's just a bit annoying in the morning or after the car has sat for a couple of hours.
I just need to finish this tuning. Finding a flat place to get cruise logs has proven to be very difficult actually. But I will be happy and it will all be worth it if my car makes decent HP
I just need to finish this tuning. Finding a flat place to get cruise logs has proven to be very difficult actually. But I will be happy and it will all be worth it if my car makes decent HP
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 01-05-2012 at 10:23 AM.
#2050
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
Macgyverizing is what gets me in trouble My current setup is finally working well, but for a minute at start up I am burning oil because oil is draining back down into the turbo after shutdown even if I do let the pump run for a minute after shutdown. It's common knowledge I know, but the oil drain has to point straight up and down in order to avoid issues. That said, from what AMR says, and what I have read on a few turbo builder sites, the oil burning is not an issue as long as it is not burning once running, which it is not. It's just a bit annoying in the morning or after the car has sat for a couple of hours.
I just need to finish this tuning. Finding a flat place to get cruise logs has proven to be very difficult actually. But I will be happy and it will all be worth it if my car makes decent HP
I just need to finish this tuning. Finding a flat place to get cruise logs has proven to be very difficult actually. But I will be happy and it will all be worth it if my car makes decent HP