9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
#2301
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
I'll summarize when I'm done.
#2302
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
If you want to make some serious power there is only one way you will do it using that actuator - fitting a bigger actuator wont work as well BTW .
Cut 3mm off the end of the thread and remove the nut . This will give you the adjustment you need later (and save it being a major PIA ) . But set the rod back in stock position till you get it tuned.
Either this or settle with 270-280whp max. like all the others that preferred to listen to MM.
Cut 3mm off the end of the thread and remove the nut . This will give you the adjustment you need later (and save it being a major PIA ) . But set the rod back in stock position till you get it tuned.
Either this or settle with 270-280whp max. like all the others that preferred to listen to MM.
Last edited by Brettus; 04-24-2012 at 03:04 PM.
#2306
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
I'm tossing some ideas around currently, and looking at streamlining the Greddy piping network. Also I'm looking at 3" inlet 2" outlet on the compressor housing.
I firmly believe the greddy piping was designed to fit and not to perform. The R&D they go through with the nissan/evo guys is different and is designed to perform. I can only imagine its easier since they have a piping system to look at improving, versus designing a new one.
Anyways... I'll update my boost thread once I get the internals back form Microblue and get the housing. Till then I'll just keep thread jacking 9K LOL.
#2308
Registered
iTrader: (7)
If you want to make some serious power there is only one way you will do it using that actuator - fitting a bigger actuator wont work as well BTW .
Cut 3mm off the end of the thread and remove the nut . This will give you the adjustment you need later (and save it being a major PIA ) . But set the rod back in stock position till you get it tuned.
Either this or settle with 270-280whp max. like all the others that preferred to listen to MM.
Cut 3mm off the end of the thread and remove the nut . This will give you the adjustment you need later (and save it being a major PIA ) . But set the rod back in stock position till you get it tuned.
Either this or settle with 270-280whp max. like all the others that preferred to listen to MM.
And I'm guessing that without cutting down the actuator arm you can't tighten the preload enough?
#2309
The Stink w.o The Sause
iTrader: (5)
Excellent thanks for the info!
I'm tossing some ideas around currently, and looking at streamlining the Greddy piping network. Also I'm looking at 3" inlet 2" outlet on the compressor housing.
I firmly believe the greddy piping was designed to fit and not to perform. The R&D they go through with the nissan/evo guys is different and is designed to perform. I can only imagine its easier since they have a piping system to look at improving, versus designing a new one.
agreed 100%
Anyways... I'll update my boost thread once I get the internals back form Microblue and get the housing. Till then I'll just keep thread jacking 9K LOL.
I'm tossing some ideas around currently, and looking at streamlining the Greddy piping network. Also I'm looking at 3" inlet 2" outlet on the compressor housing.
I firmly believe the greddy piping was designed to fit and not to perform. The R&D they go through with the nissan/evo guys is different and is designed to perform. I can only imagine its easier since they have a piping system to look at improving, versus designing a new one.
agreed 100%
Anyways... I'll update my boost thread once I get the internals back form Microblue and get the housing. Till then I'll just keep thread jacking 9K LOL.
I am also considering deleting the passenger oil cooler and moving the intake there ... BOV recirc will be fun, but not too bad I imagine ... Honestly, I feel that the stock MAF placement is waaaay too far away from the turbo. What is your opinion on extending MAF wires? Do you know where one can acquire a MAF flange? I am also thinking about upping the MAF tube diameter to 3.75inch, tossing the screens and using this for straightener ... should allow for a shorter MAF tube to be used http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...r+Airflow+Stra
I need to finish my tuning first, upgrade fuel pump and injectors(A/T blues, Aeromotive 340 fuel pump .. opinion?) (I can still advance about 2 degrees in some places, but my MAF isnt completely scaled yet) and get a baseline dyno run in first tho ...
BTW are you tunning with cobb ? Did you experience a lean spike when going from cruise to WOT? (Staying in the same gear) I am guessing this can be solved through on-throttle tables, but I have not played with them yet.
Brian told me he upgrades them, but i didnt have funds available and went for a stock one .... i wonder if my spiking issue is in part due to this ... I also think I have an early BNR upgrade ... since my turbo is watercooled ... I am also attaching pics of my turbo,
but boost starts to drop off at 7.7k at 8.5 k its full on surge .... this
I wonder if increasing boost pressure to push the turbo closer to efficiency can fix this somewhat ... but alas, I cannot test this before I put in injectors
Finally, what are your guys oil temps like?
Last edited by stinksause; 04-24-2012 at 07:37 PM.
#2311
Registered
iTrader: (7)
What is your opinion on extending MAF wires?
Do you know where one can acquire a MAF flange?
I am also thinking about upping the MAF tube diameter to 3.75inch, tossing the screens and using this for straightener ... should allow for a shorter MAF tube to be used http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...r+Airflow+Stra
I need to finish my tuning first, upgrade fuel pump and injectors(A/T blues, Aeromotive 340 fuel pump .. opinion?) (I can still advance about 2 degrees in some places, but my MAF isnt completely scaled yet) and get a baseline dyno run in first tho ...
Do you know where one can acquire a MAF flange?
I am also thinking about upping the MAF tube diameter to 3.75inch, tossing the screens and using this for straightener ... should allow for a shorter MAF tube to be used http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...r+Airflow+Stra
I need to finish my tuning first, upgrade fuel pump and injectors(A/T blues, Aeromotive 340 fuel pump .. opinion?) (I can still advance about 2 degrees in some places, but my MAF isnt completely scaled yet) and get a baseline dyno run in first tho ...
MAF Flange can be purchased from Treadstone Performance, you'll need the Denso Style Flange.
No reason to change the MAF Tube Diameter keep it the same as stock with a 3.375" ID
Screens or the Honeycomb MAF Straightener, I don't think you'll see much of a difference.
When tuning MAF Scaling should be the first thing you get done, then go from there.
Just have the Stock Yellow P2's uncapped and flow matched, and you'll be fine as far as fuel goes.
#2312
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
Your inlet piping MUST be at least as big but preferably bigger than the turbo inlet .This ,I believe, is the major issue with the BNR upgrade.
The turbo outlet is a restriction as is the stock 2" tube to the IC . 21/2" would work much better there .
Last edited by Brettus; 04-24-2012 at 07:55 PM.
#2313
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
So if I understand correctly the reason for doing this would be to increase the preload on the actuator to prevent the wastegate from opening at all before it's supposed to, correct?
And I'm guessing that without cutting down the actuator arm you can't tighten the preload enough?
And I'm guessing that without cutting down the actuator arm you can't tighten the preload enough?
#2315
The Stink w.o The Sause
iTrader: (5)
When Slamming the throttle in mid to high rpm (slamming form very light to no throttle)
If I ease into it, its fine ... I also think my waste gate line is a bit too long as I have it looping up to my coolant tank and back down. I wanted to give myself enough slack for when I put in boost controller
I am also considering porting the waste gate, removing the stock door and welding an exhaust valve from a honda as the new door
If I ease into it, its fine ... I also think my waste gate line is a bit too long as I have it looping up to my coolant tank and back down. I wanted to give myself enough slack for when I put in boost controller
I am also considering porting the waste gate, removing the stock door and welding an exhaust valve from a honda as the new door
Last edited by stinksause; 04-24-2012 at 08:08 PM.
#2320
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Stink that is definitely not a current BNR, the inlet is small and the BNR has the coolant ports sitting outboard away from the motor and judging by the banjo fitting one of your coolant lines comes from the top water port closest to the engine. I still don't see how BNR upgrades the actuator, I highly doubt that.
#2321
SPOOLN8
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2008
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#2322
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
If you are chasing 300+ I definitely agree with this
Your inlet piping MUST be at least as big but preferably bigger than the turbo inlet .This ,I believe, is the major issue with the BNR upgrade.
The turbo outlet is a restriction as is the stock 2" tube to the IC . 21/2" would work much better there .
Your inlet piping MUST be at least as big but preferably bigger than the turbo inlet .This ,I believe, is the major issue with the BNR upgrade.
The turbo outlet is a restriction as is the stock 2" tube to the IC . 21/2" would work much better there .
However I dont know if the new housing will fit in the manifold area. I cannot get the full dimensions of the new compressor housing.
What I am looking at is getting a smaller battery and coolant tank and moving them over about 6 inches. Then running a 3 inch pipe up to the front bumper creating a fairly straight shot with minimal bends and removal of "essential" equipment.
I'm still not sure about routing the outlet piping and how that will work. My plan is to run 2" to the hot side of the IC and 2.5 from the cold side to the TB. Another option would be to have the cold side 3" this would match the TB creating better flow and allowing the air to become more dense.
Again I'm just tossing ideas around seeing what sticks. once I get the housing and get the turbo assembled assuming it fits with minimal work the plan is to have a shop make the IC piping for me. With the hope of being able to have the lease amount of connections as possible.
#2323
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
Yea the stock outlet being 1.5" using a 20g wheel makes no sense to me...
However I dont know if the new housing will fit in the manifold area. I cannot get the full dimensions of the new compressor housing.
What I am looking at is getting a smaller battery and coolant tank and moving them over about 6 inches. Then running a 3 inch pipe up to the front bumper creating a fairly straight shot with minimal bends and removal of "essential" equipment.
I'm still not sure about routing the outlet piping and how that will work. My plan is to run 2" to the hot side of the IC and 2.5 from the cold side to the TB. Another option would be to have the cold side 3" this would match the TB creating better flow and allowing the air to become more dense.
Again I'm just tossing ideas around seeing what sticks. once I get the housing and get the turbo assembled assuming it fits with minimal work the plan is to have a shop make the IC piping for me. With the hope of being able to have the lease amount of connections as possible.
However I dont know if the new housing will fit in the manifold area. I cannot get the full dimensions of the new compressor housing.
What I am looking at is getting a smaller battery and coolant tank and moving them over about 6 inches. Then running a 3 inch pipe up to the front bumper creating a fairly straight shot with minimal bends and removal of "essential" equipment.
I'm still not sure about routing the outlet piping and how that will work. My plan is to run 2" to the hot side of the IC and 2.5 from the cold side to the TB. Another option would be to have the cold side 3" this would match the TB creating better flow and allowing the air to become more dense.
Again I'm just tossing ideas around seeing what sticks. once I get the housing and get the turbo assembled assuming it fits with minimal work the plan is to have a shop make the IC piping for me. With the hope of being able to have the lease amount of connections as possible.
Last edited by Brettus; 04-25-2012 at 12:01 AM.
#2324
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
Just remember that "big is good !" is not really 100% true when it comes to pipework . For up to around 350whp i believe 21/2" is minimum for the intake and 21/4"-21/2"for the hotside and 23/4"-3" for the coldside . Go bigger and there will be a tradeoff on throttle response.
I'm going to continue digging of course and will carry this convo over to my own build thread! Sorry for continuing to threadjack 9k!
#2325
Registered
iTrader: (3)
glad to see someone is using the microblue process. Please post some pics and I think you are going to be very pleased with the result.
If you need to move the Maf wires--you can cut into the harness and just separate the maf wires from the others and mount it anywhere you want. Its better than cutting them.
If you need to move the Maf wires--you can cut into the harness and just separate the maf wires from the others and mount it anywhere you want. Its better than cutting them.