Since I have a turbo, I thought posting here would make more sense than 'Issues & Problems'?

I was driving home yesterday and accelerated onto the highway. After revving to about 7500RPM, the engine started bogging. I didn't hear any pings, just a loss of power. I did accidently boost it once after that whilst trying to get up a steep grade, and the boost gauge popped right up to where I would've expected it to.

I drove it on the freeway for about 10 miles after that. It still got up to speed, but with a lot less power and a weird exhaust note.

When I got home, I let it idle a little bit. Vacuum was near normal ala my boost gauge, but it was running rough.

Is there any explanation for this sudden loss of power other than a blown engine?

If it is indeed a blown engine, what is my cheapest option to replace it?

 

What kind of turbo?

 

I don't know if it is blown or not, but I would guess your best option for quick turnaround would be buying a rebuilt engine from Mazmart and doing a core swap with them. But that assumes you can do the swap yourself or find someone to do it for you. Even if you have to pay a shop to do it, I'm guessing that option would still be quite a bit cheaper than buying a reman from Mazda and having a mazda dealer do it.

 

Have you checked all your tubes and hoses? Likely a silicone coupler slipped off/broke or a vacuum line did.

 

and you need to tell us what kind of turbo kit and what kind of fuel management.

the int-x is map based, and even a large vacuum leak will not phase it much, whereas a maf based fuel management system will run like **** pretty easily if something is out of place.

 

It's a GReddy turbo.

My EMS is an Xede. It is a stand alone (full control of fuel and spark) & it has a built-in boost controller.

Yeah, it did seem to make a little 'pop' sound before it lost power and the exhaust note changed...kinda like how I would expect a hose to sound when it pops off. However, it is still making boost so that seems less likely. OTOH, it doesn't have that 'grenaded rotary' smell and it seems unlikely to have gotten me home at 70+ mph if it blew an apex seal.

How much do you think it would cost for the Mazmart reman/core swap? What should I expect for the install costs? I am really strapped for cash right now.

I would do it myself if I had the space, the tools, and someone with experience to help me. I've swapped out plenty of small block Chevys, but never a rotary and never a newfangled engine with all the complicated electronics/wiring.

If I indeed have to replace the engine again, it's gonna be N/A (used turbo kit for sale).

I guess with the manuals and attention to details (label frickin' EVERYTHING I pull off the old engine), anything is do-able.

Is there any place in the Bay area where you can rent a garage, tools, & engine puller?

 

how does it idle? does it sound like it's street ported or something? you said "rough" which doesn't mean much.

 

your situation was very similar to mine. come to find out, my front rotor was lost. my 2nd rotor has good compression.

I'm getting a mazda reman next week.

 

It is ported, but normally runs smooth as stock. Last night when I got home I let it idle for awhile and it had 15" of vacuum at 800 RPM...usually it's around 17". I tried starting it again about 1/2 hour later and it (1) sounded worse...like a diesel and (2) had only 13" @ 800 RPM.

 

Are you turbo-ed? Were you still able to run at freeway speeds? The first time I blew my Renesis, it would barely move.

 

Do a compression test... I think that is your best bet!
Best of luck to you my friend

 

Depending on the options you pick a Mazmart rebuilt goes for under $3,000. A tuner shop would be a cheaper place to do the install, the one I found did it for $1,000.

 

That sucks. 13" of vacuum is pretty bad, but could just point out a huge vacuum leak. Before jumping to conclusions I would check all your vacuum hoses and couplers. Even check your intercooler, I've seen welds crack that have caused virtually undetectable boost leaks.

If you can't find any leaks, a compression test would be in order. You can do one yourself rather easily by buying a compression tester at AutoZone, then disconnect your e-shaft angle sensor and have a friend crank the engine while you read the gauge. You should see three "pops" on the gauge, if one of those pops is very low it means you have a bad seal seal, if two are very low you have a bad apex seal. If the apex seal is gone, your housing is more than likely toasted as well, so I would get a new motor. If it's just a side seal, chances are your housings are still good (not guaranteed, tho) and I would have the engine rebuilt.

Other options would be getting a reman from Mazmart, or even going to a local wrecking yard and seeing if they have any RX-8's around, and getting one of their engines. Most yards only want around $2k for one, and most come with some kind of warranty so if that motor is toast as well you can get your money back or another motor.

Hope it all works out for ya man.

 

or buy from ebay...i saw some 13B engines from RX8...

 

it moved along with the usual sounds of a dropped apex seal. if you don't have access to a compression tester, pull the plugs and with a light you can tell if you lost seals. you will find wear/scuff markings on the face of the rotor. as you probably know, older 13b's would spit out the seals via the exhaust or turbo. the renesis just grinds them. the result would be a f'ed up rotor/housing.

 

Yes, that's my offer.

...quite a bargain, don't you think?

 

Sorry to hear that. Kind've what happened to me. It might be a hose that's blown off (had that happen to me). The rubber hoses & couplers in the Greddy kit are suspect at best.

Also, blew my engine. Mazda wanted something like $9K to get the engine & do the replacement (along with a 12K mile waranty). I got the replacement engine from Mazmart. Paul over there is top notch. Great service, at great prices. My friend put the new engine in for about $1K labor. Good luck. I did the same thing, went from turboed back to NA.

 

I was just going to recommend to ask CRH, but he is here already

If you can pull the motor yourself, he'll pull it apart and put it back together for you in no time. Harness just looks looks complex. In reality though, there are only 10 connectors you need to label, and not confuse. Injectors and coils. the rest of it is self explanatory, and falls into place pretty much on it's own.

 

Maybe not a blown engine!

Do you think I'm even getting spark from this coil?

This doesn't explain why the engine went all dull and flat on me all at once, but maybe it does explain why I'm smelling unburnt gas.

I didn't think a coil could fail so suddenly?

 

Glad to see you are getting to the bottom of this without getting under your car too deep like ray and I did.

 

slide, just curious, which plug was attached to that coil?

 

It's the first coil...the one at the front of the engine. I haven't bothered seeing what plug its connected to. That will be a task for when I have to clean its plug whilst installing the new coils.

 

it is connected to the lower (leading) plug on the first rotor.
this is how it works:
First coil........Front rotor, leading (lower plug)
Second coil....Front rotor, trailing (upper plug)
Third coil.......Back rotor, leading (lower plug)
Fourth coil.....Back rotor, trailing (upper plug)