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Old 07-21-2005 | 08:04 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Benny
That sounds great. I am glad things are going well for your car. Basically we have to keep a safe margin when tuning our turbo kits. Especially when it comes to rotory motors.

Yeah I got a real safe margin from you people.
Old 07-21-2005 | 09:09 AM
  #52  
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Benny, have you looked at any of the dyno charts that have been posted on here though? They are running very bad after 6k. They go so rich they are off the charts. Below 10 A/F, and I saw one guy's at 8. The early Greddy kits were dynoing at 240hp, but all the new ones are only getting aroung 210hp, probably because the top end is running so rich. It seems your map from last December was great, but it's my understanding you released a new one around March and I guess you intentionally richened it up top, did you intend to richen it this much?
Old 07-21-2005 | 10:27 AM
  #53  
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personally, I'd rather they come to me VERY rich. Given the variability in our cars, I want to be the one who gets it up to A/F=11. I'd rather not have it too lean before I can tune it. Tuning this, or any, kit is just a fact of life. You can't expect to have a turboed car and not tune it. You also need to watch the A/F constantly. I am going to have a WB02 output right next to the boost gage.

-MD
Old 07-22-2005 | 03:41 PM
  #54  
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Hey Benny i tried to call you but its very difficult right now cause i don't have time...

Well..
I want your help big time
I have greddy turbo kit installed without problems,
greddy bov type rs(without cahnging the valve,tighten it or change it to hard),
profec e0-1(i have it in 0 position,haven't changed it)
greddy oil pan
Greddy SP2 catback
i ll soon install the greddy oil catch tank and pwr bigger radiator
i have unorthodox racing pulleys
and i am now running with the stock cat...

The only thing i haven't made yet is installing a hose in the top of the airinix...
I haven't even see a cel after 600-700km....

Anyhow...
I have made some runs with the stock cat on and with the high flow cat i had(canzoomer midp4 which is a 5" size cat while the stock uses a 2" size cat)
I attached the graphs to this thread so you can tell me your opinions and if there is anything i can do to have my high flow system on...I want to be sure that i won't run too lean especially in 5th,6th gear...

If i need to tune the emange,there is not a single person here who can do this job so i would appreciate it if you can help me with any solution...

The runs were made in very hard conditions with 35+ degrees celcious temp and afternoon...Here the summer is over 30 celcious and in winter there is arrount -4...
Also we were not running in the sea level but highter..

Well now i had some problem from when i installed the bov...When i am arround 5k rpms without pushing harder but keeping steady the gas pedal i keep hearing the bov which wants to blow...
When i press the clutch and take of any gear and movint the shift to neutral position the needle in the rpm gauge hits the ground arround 100 rpms and then goes to 800-900to get steady...This thing turned off my car couple tiumes...So i though i should tighten up the valve in the bov but i could only tighten up the valve a little cause it didn't going further and the problem is smaller but it happens again...

What should i do with the bov?
What should i do with my high flow cat?
How good am i running in these worst conditions??

Also the car some times getting little more difficult from before to turn on..Should i buy new spark plugs??What numbers??I heard greddy will make new spark plugs for rx8 are these available and would this make any difference??

Also now that i have the stock cat on i can't for example especially in 5ht and 6th gear push the gas to the ground to run with 5th and 6th...I want to tell you that if i want to run steady arround 200km/hour i must hit to redline 1st,second,third and fourth gear and then just having the pedal steady and cruise the car...If i hit the pedal harder it will sure hit overboost...Over 0.4...I have seen 0.52 till now with the stock cat on and sp2 on...

So please please please read my graphs and tell me what should i do...I ll do whatever you tell me(except throwing away the sp2 or something else right now)but i want to run as safe as possible...
Please answer all my questions cause i really can't call you right now from Greece...
Also if this is needed i bought the turbo kit and all the addons from mazdaparts after 1st June...

Chris.
Sorry for the big post..If you can benny tell me your email by pm also
1st graph with stock cat and sp2 and everything else and second graph with sp2,canzoomer cat and everything else...I would be glad if there is a solution so i can install my canzoomer high flow cat again and run safe...Tell me about my afrs and by the way the number were taken with canscan from the stock ecu which can't show under 12 so when you see the straight line it is 99% under 12 but it can't show it...
Attached Thumbnails ATTN: GReddy Turbo Kit owners-3th_stock-kat_graph.jpg   ATTN: GReddy Turbo Kit owners-3th_canzoomer-kat_graph.jpg  
Old 07-22-2005 | 04:57 PM
  #55  
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Man that's a long story. Well, I'm no Benny, but I can tell you:

1. You have to retune the emanage after installing the hi-flow cat. Benny won't retune it for you, because Greddy wants to be CARB compliant. They aren't yet, but they have applied for it. If you decide to run with it untuned and with the hi-flo cat, you are taking a risk with detonation.

2. You can't tell anything from your canscan graphs because they bottom out at 12. The A/F for a turbo should be around 11.5. Get a wideband 02 installed.

3. You need to tighten you BOV, you must be doing it wrong because I can tighten myne down so much it won't blow off at all. Just loosen the nut at the top and then using an allen wrench turn the adjustment **** toward tighten. That is almost certainly your problem with the stalling.

4. As far as the hard starting, you may need new plugs. Pull your old ones, and take some pictures, post them on here and someone will let you know. Another issue, I notice my car is very difficult to start if I run it hard and don't give it enough time to cool down before I turn it off. After hard runs, turn on the heat and let it idle for 5 minutes.

Last edited by rkostolni; 07-22-2005 at 06:48 PM.
Old 07-22-2005 | 05:15 PM
  #56  
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From: Thessaloniki,GREECE
Why you have a bov if you have tighten it so much it can't blow off??

Also what about the 5th and 6th gear problem with some overboost hits??

Thanks for the reply my friend but i must wait to see what benny has to say and i ll maybe install a wideband o2 to have better numbers...
Old 07-22-2005 | 05:23 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by rkostolni
Greddy wants to be CARB compliant. They aren't yet, but they have applied for it.
Can you confirm this statement? My understanding from talking with Benny was they have not applied for a CARB exemption yet but may do so in a couple years time.
________
BUY GLASS BONGS

Last edited by PUR NRG; 05-01-2011 at 07:29 AM.
Old 07-22-2005 | 06:47 PM
  #58  
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I'm not saying I drive around with it set so tight it doesn't blow off, but when I first got it and was adjusting the hardness I played around with it. I normally leave it set very soft and just deal with the rpms falling low every once in a while since I like the sound better.

Yes, I talked to Benny before I bought the kit and Benny told me they file for CARB compliance with all of there products including this kit. It will take a while for this to go through, maybe a year or two I would guess, but they have submitted it. This is the reason Greddy doesn't sell cat delete pipes, they keep it legal.
Old 07-27-2005 | 12:59 AM
  #59  
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In regards to the E-Manage harnass adapter. I've had it on my car 2 weeks now, and no check engine light.... thanks Benny.
Old 08-01-2005 | 05:50 PM
  #60  
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Greddy/Benny will help when it is something simple but when it comes to the lack of detail when they built this kit is when they start running around thejor ma issues ie:
The E-manage and its lack of control for tunning
Boost spikes in 5th and 6th

Which are 2 very big problems especially in rotarys. I hope others will not end up where I am at
Old 08-01-2005 | 06:02 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Broke_Apex_Seal
Greddy/Benny will help when it is something simple but when it comes to the lack of detail when they built this kit is when they start running around thejor ma issues ie:
The E-manage and its lack of control for tunning
Boost spikes in 5th and 6th

Which are 2 very big problems especially in rotarys. I hope others will not end up where I am at

Ryan, you really need to compile what you learned into a new thread. You are the only one that has reported a problem so far under boost. Can you please compile anything that you learned, evidence to support your claims, what your maps were like when you blew-up, boost logs that show these spikes, emanage lessons, etc. so that the rest of us can avoid destroying our engines?

WE NEED DETAIL!!

Thanks!
Old 08-01-2005 | 06:35 PM
  #62  
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Well no logs were taken at the time for one main reason I was just going to get gas and not running it at all. That is why I am soooo pissed. I have a ecu that likes to pull out long term fuel trim. With that being said the AFR's were fine when first tuned but after that they would lean out after a few days say it was constant tuning of the kit. The last map that was in the car I would be happy to let everyone see. It was from Jeff(mazdamaniac).I had to richen the map up another 10-13% in some areas. There is so much we dont know about on the 8's engine control. A real fix is to go stand alone or fiqure out how the ECU really works.
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